Author: Jenn

Rugged Mystique

Credits: Papers from SDynes Christmas Treasures Mini Kit; Frames from Orchbroom Mask and SDynes Christmas Elements; Floral Elements from Sahlin Studio’s Story Telling kit (sc flowers).

Bewitched.  I can’t seem to put my finger on it but there’s something about the town of El Nido that has left me enchanted from day one.

The town sits on a sheltered bay flanked by limestone cliffs on one side

and hills on the other.

A small town center charmed with tree-lined streets and towering cliffs in the background, a stunning vista it makes.

It still is very much a backpacker’s town really and it is this laid-back backpacking atmosphere that lured me back to many years after.

This charming fishing village in the northernmost tip of the Palawan Island often is referred to as the Last Frontier due to its rugged mystique.

How time flies… it took me 8 years to come back to one of my favorite towns.  I still remember many details of the town like it was yesterday.

El Nido has turned into a touristic town and I see that more exciting places to eat and stay have sprouted everywhere.

“Madali ang pera dito kung masipag ka”, says Mang Rudy.

The opportunities are endless with tourism at the forefront here at El Nido and money can indeed be easy if one works hard.

The one place I would have loved to go back to, we heard no longer serve meals on a regular basis.  Walking to town, we unwittingly found the house so we entered the half-opened gate and were told that they don’t accept dinner bookings anymore.  We took it as that.  On hindsight, I am not sure if they meant that they were already full for the holidays or that they weren’t serving because it was a holiday.  Having seen many closed shops and restaurants around Palawan during Easter break, this will not come as a  surprise.  Elm St Café is a cozy dining place set in a beautiful garden amidst a limestone backdrop so beautiful when lit at night.  The owners opened their home along Rizal Ave. and they served meals to those that booked in advance – usually a surprise, depending on what is found in the market that day.  They were the best of the best then, the ambiance and the element of surprise added to the experience and memories.

Not to fret though as there are a whole new lot to choose from, we barely scratched the surface, I think.  And here are some that caught our fancy.

La Salangane – more than the French meals, what had us coming back were the homemade flavored rums.

Ginger, apple, pineapple, pears, oranges, mangoes, even pepper –

wonderful flavors enjoyed in a relaxed atmosphere overlooking the Cadlao Mountain by the beach.

Made more special over sunset.  This is THE place to get your espresso fix as well.  Many of the places in E Nido, including our inn, do not even serve brewed coffee.

The Alternative Restaurant – mentioned by some French tourists we met on our way to El Nido, we decided to give it a shot.  The place was not easy to find as it does not look like much from the outside and we kept walking pass it.

On the 2nd floor though where the restaurant is, the ambience turned to cozy.  At one side overlooking the sea, a few sunken oval seats resembling a “bird’s nest” overhangs the beach – a cool place to hang out and watch the sunset, me thinks but A wasn’t as confident that the structure would hold us so we got ourselves a table instead.

Despite an extensive vegetarian choice, I had a pork dish with pasta – and it was pretty good.  Our French friends though were not as impressed.

Altrové Trattoria – saving the best for last.  This Pizzeria was the best of the lot in my books.

Made of fresh dough and cooked crisp in a brick-oven is perhaps the best pizza in town.  The place, unlike The Alternative, is hard to miss.  Beautiful façade of a place, the brick oven proudly stands at the ground floor.

A nicely decorated second floor is where the dining area is.

We enjoyed our antipasti of Beef Carpaccio and Baked Tomatoes on Mozzarella.

The seafood pasta dish was divine and the pizza, wonderfully crusty.  And to cap the evening… Limóncello, how can I not love this place?

To serve Limóncello in a town like El Nido, where electricity only runs from 2pm-6am, was impressive.  And this, dear friends, has easily landed on the top of my El Nido list, dining-wise.

Useful Info:

La Salangane
Serena Street
Barangay Buena Suerte
Contact:  (63) 916-648-6994
Email:  info@lasalangane.com
 
The Alternative
Serena Street
Barangay Buena Suerte
Contact:  (63) 917-896-3408
 
Altrove Trattoria
Hama Street
Barangay Masagana
Contact:  (63) 927-741-8016 
 
Posted on by Jenn 9

Off To El Nido…

And so we got up early the next day, had breakfast, and before we knew it, the van we booked ahead to take us to El Nido came, earlier than expected.

The 5-hour ride was uneventful with several toilet stops along the way.  Except for the last stretch of unpaved road due to road repairs and widening – I’ll say about an hour left of travel time – the ride was pretty smooth albeit a bit cramp.  But vans are always a bit cramp.  I heard that the RoRo buses have more leg room so that perhaps might be a better option next time.

From the Lexus Company terminal at Calle Lising, a tricycle was the easiest way to get to the El Nido Viewdeck Inn;

a bed and breakfast perched on a hill with a fantastic view of the town and has for its backdrop, limestone walls.

Just a few minutes away from the hustle and bustle of the town, the Viewdeck Inn provides serenity amidst mountains.  From the road, the inn welcomes with a series of steep steps, which leads to their reception area (a down side — if you may call it that — of accommodations set in the mountains).

We were led to climb more steps to get to our cottage and needless to say, we got a good workout during our 4-day stay — the upside, yes?   😉

The room is basic with nothing to rave about save for that wonderful view from our balcony– this is what the place is all about after all.  Personally, the bonus is in the coffee.  No, it’s not the best coffee I’ve had; in fact it’s a 3-in-1, sometimes a 2-in-1 even.  That and a thermos of hot water awaits in our balcony just before we wake up.

A hot cup of coffee with a sunrise view is enough to charm me to pieces and forget that I am drinking instant.  Toast, jam and scrambled eggs –breakfast so simple, I love it – follows about half an hour later.

Before heading to town, we chat a bit with the guy at the reception.  Mang Rudy, as it turns out, owns and runs the place and when asked if he was the owner, smiling he says “hindi halata no?” (it’s not obvious right?).   Well, no Mang Rudy because you wear the oldest, most comfortable t-shirts and shorts, we thought you were the caretaker.  And that’s how he likes it.  He is the perfect host, taking great care of us and that’s how we like it.

Getting There:

Shuttle Services:
Fortwally Shuttle Services: (63) 917-276-2875 / (63) 921-311-8755
Eulen Joy Shuttle Van: (63) 949-449-8858 / (63) 926-699-8700
Lexus Company: (63) 917-585-9602

RoRo Bus:  
Puerto-El Nido:  (63) 908-920-2568
El Nido-Puerto: (63) 917-597-1182

Useful Info:

El Nido Viewdeck Inn
Mobile:  (63) 927-723-4067 / (63) 947-601-8599
Email:  inquiry@elnidoviewdeck.com / inquiry.viewdeck@yahoo.com
 
Posted on by Jenn 11

Survival of the Fastest

Credits:  J Sprague Digi in Deeper Course Material

Every morning in Africa, a gazelle wakes up. It knows it must run faster than the fastest lion or it will be killed. Every morning a lion wakes up. It knows it must outrun the slowest gazelle or it will starve to death.  It doesn’t matter whether you are a lion or a gazelle, when the sun comes up, you better be running.

African Proverb

Exaggerated perhaps but essentially true.  Survival is the name of the game in the African Savannah.

In the lion’s world, its prey generally consists of wildebeests, zebras, and a variety of ungulates (giraffe, buffalo, and gazelles).   Dubbed the king of the jungle, lions are the 2nd largest cat after the tiger and are vicious predator commanding respect from other wildlife.  They kill to live, and they live a life of feast or famine.  They usually catch something to eat every 3-4 hours but may perhaps not able to catch an animal for a week so they stuff themselves when they can.

They are the most charismatic of all the animals that roam the savannahs of East Africa and safari enthusiasts bend over backwards and are patient for a sighting.  Ngorongoro and Serengeti in Tanzania, Amboseli in Nairobi, Lake Nakuru and Maasai Mara in Kenya are the best sighting places.

They too become prey to humans who for centuries have killed lions in rituals of gallantry, as hunting trophies, or for their perceived medicinal and magical powers.

Gazelles on the other hand are small antelopes noted for its grace, speed and beauty.  Most species have horns and are generally fawn colored with white or dark markings.  Rarely having to drink and only receives water from the leaves that they eat, they are grazers and mainly inhabit lowland thorn-bush, woodlands and grasslands.

In the gazelle’s world, they stay clear of their predators, which include lions but cheetahs and African hunting dogs are the most prevalent.  They rely on their keen sense to avoid their predators.  Their large lustrous eyes are on the sides and their pupil elongated horizontally, giving them a broad view of danger from both the back and front.  This aside, they were also created with a sharp sense of smell and hearing.

The great migration is one of the most impressive natural events worldwide, involving wildebeests, gazelles, topis, eland, and zebras.  These migrants are followed along their annual circular route by hungry predators, most notably lions and hyenas.  I was lucky enough to witness, well… not exactly the great migration per se, but the start of it at least.

That visit in 2006 has made me more aware of animals in the wild, how they live and survive in the wilderness.  I am amazed at how they are individually created with the instinct and distinct features to survive.

Posted on by Jenn 2

El Nido… Here I Come

But first, let me talk about Puerto Princesa.  Not exactly the paradise Palawan promises to be, it is however the gateway to the promise.   The capital of Palawan is the jump off point to many beautiful beaches, lush rainforests, stunning limestone cliffs and the clearest water teeming with marine life.  And just like many of my trips to Puerto Princesa, we made it our jump-off to El Nido, a favorite part of Palawan and our destination.

Always in transit, never really staying, Puerto Princesa managed to endear itself a few years back when we decided to stay a few days more after a live-aboard trip to Tubbataha and Cagayancillo.  A clean, quiet city that is best known today for its Underground River, a UNESCO World Heritage site featuring a spectacular karst landscape and an extensive underground river system.

And because the van to El Nido leaves early morning, we thought it best to spend a night and enjoy a bit of its good food.  If you know me by now, you know that good food is never far behind.

As soon as we touched down, before we even checked in to our inn, we headed straight to our favorite Vietnamese eatery in PP – Rene’s Saigon Restaurant.

They serve the best Beef Pho in town.  That’s Beef Stew Noodle soup and locals call it Chao Long.  Once a United Nations Vietnamese Refugee Center in the ‘70s, the capital had been introduced to Vietnamese culture and its food its greatest reward and keepsake.

Even on a hot summer’s day, this soup provides great satisfaction.  A bowl each and a shared Beef Bahn Mi – yes we love beef – is one fulfilling “welcome to Puerto Princesa” meal.

If you are to walk to Baywalk like we did, late afternoon (or early morning) is best during the hot summer.

A seafront strip that (sort of) reminds of Dumaguete’s Rizal Boulevard.  This strip, unlike that of Dumaguete’s, is tucked away from the road just beside the seaport.

Detained fishing boats for using illegal fishing methods.

Puerto Princesa Bay, a main port for smaller ship boats is likewise the main gateway to the many islets of Palawan by sea.  This is also where one would take a boat to watch the dolphins frolicking the bay early in the morning.

Long nose snouted spinner dolphins abound in the waters off Puerto Bay.

Many food stalls line the Baywalk strip offering various kinds of street food.

Trying a Tok Neneng — it really is just hard boiled eggs coated with an orange batter then fried.  It is flavored with the sauce of your choice ranging from sweet and sour to hot and spicy.
Some sort of a spicy cheese roll, the green pepper providing the heat.  Yum.

Seated near a stall enjoying our beer, our tok nenengs and the likes, the stall owner asked if we would be interested in some tamilok – a woodworm, sometimes also known as a shipworm.

It may look like a worm and called a worm, it is however not one.  It is a marine mollusk that tastes very much like fresh oysters, I found out.

Curious that Andrew Zimmern found it fabulous, I should give it a try myself, don’t you think?  Now, fabulous it is not (for me), but it definitely would pass as not bad.

The more popular restaurants were either closed or fully booked, we ended up trying a new kid on the block.

Blue Ginger serves Asian cuisine that is quite impressive but the one that had us all nodding our heads was this Texas Style Pork Ribs.

The chef’s American, that’s why.  In my books, this place is a serious addition to the many wonderful eats Puerto has to offer so far.

Satisfying day.  Tomorrow we’re off to my favorite Palawan getaway.

Useful Info

Rene’s Saigon Restaurant
Rizal Avenue Extension,
Puerto Princesa3
(048) 433-5255
 
Blue Ginger
Rizal Avenue,
Puerto Princesa
(0927) 545-5847
Posted on by Jenn 5

Random Travel Snaps: Spotted Eagle Ray

Photo courtesy of R.Rellosa

Somewhere near Blue Corner off the waters of Palau, a creature gracefully glided its way towards us.  It was my first encounter with rays and it was intoxicating.  Stupefied, I watched its flat disk-shape body with its soaring wings fly towards us.  It was identified as a Spotted Eagle Ray because it has white spots on its deep blue body.  Their long rounded snout, almost like a pig’s snout, distinguishes it from other rays.  The one encountered was quite big but it is said that a Spotted Eagle Ray can grow to nearly nine feet (3M) from wingtip to wingtip.

Rays are some the most fascinating creatures to soar through the world’s ocean and they are found worldwide in tropical waters, most commonly in shallow inshore waters, around reefs.  To come across them in Palau is quite common, thanks to the island formation and currents.  Made up of over 100 islands with low-lying oval islands ringed by barrier reefs, it is world renown for its marine bio-diversity.  Outside of the pelagic (such as sharks and rays), the water is teeming with barracuda, jacks and tuna.  Over 600 coral species smother the reefs overflowing with small fish.  Definitely a must for every diver.

As a new diver in 2007, my trip to Palau was a series of firsts – it was my first time to dive outside of the Philippines, to drift in strong currents, to use a reef hook, to see big fishes like sharks and rays…  And these firsts gave me the confidence underwater.  But truth be known, that Spotted Eagle Ray made my Palau dive experience impossible to forget.

Posted on by Jenn 3

Spelunking

Many, many years ago, 1994 I think it was, we made a day trip to Sagada from Banaue.  We found ourselves a guide and he suggested that we do the caves.  That was 18 years ago, I was not the same person I am today.  I hesitated, “I’ll stay in the jeep”, I told my friends.  They looked at me, “that’s a 3-hour wait”.  “But my shoes (a trekking boots) will get dirty”, I said.  Bewildered, they just looked at me and started walking down the steep stairs leading to the opening of Sumaging.  A friend stayed with me but when the last of them disappeared from our sight, she convinced me to do it as she has already decided to go for it.  Long story short, I gave in.

Slippery step after slippery step, I was cursing.  “I will never EVER listen to you guys again”.  But at least I didn’t cry like one of our companions.  I was too angry to cry.  Yes, it was terrifying, especially for a first timer.

But it gets better as you walk pass the guano covered rocks.  Yes again, those rocks aren’t only slippery, they’re stinky as hell too.

As we walk those boulders with only a gasera (gas lamp) lighting our way, I would imagine slipping and falling into a deep pit – for all you know, it ain’t that deep but the surroundings were pitch dark so imaginations can get wild, believe me.

At a certain point, we were asked to take off our shoes.  Well, at least my (trek) boots won’t get wet, I thought.  But my next worry though was how on earth are we to manage those slippery rocks barefooted.  Best. Thing. Ever.

The pumice-like rocks had enough traction that your feet practically stick to those boulders.  Amazing.

Still cursing though as we not only rappel up and down to get to other chambers, we had to step on our guides too, if no other options will do (shoulders or thighs lang naman).

Beautiful stone formations with names like King’s curtain, pig pen, pregnant woman, rice terraces formation etc. are found in those chambers.

It was definitely the saving grace of this “craziness”, truth to tell.

Recounting our adventure that evening, I started with “Next time we do this again, I will…”, they all looked at me, “I thought you will never EVER do this again?”  Oh well.

I was somewhat true to my word, I never entered Sumaging since.  Not saying though that I haven’t done Cueba de Oro, San Carlos, Sierra, Baggao caves since that fateful day.  Unbeknownst to me then, Sumaging would be my intro to the outdoors and life has never been the same since.  Although caving or spelunking, as they call it, will never really be a favorite activity but if push comes to shove, I’ll do it.  Anything for camaraderie.

Fast forward to 2005, I heard of the Lumiang-Sumaging traverse.  Curious and not wanting anything new to pass me by, I ventured once more to the uncomfortable with friends in tow.

We started early as this would take us 4-5 hours, they said.  More experienced this time, it wasn’t as daunting but to say it was challenging might be an understatement.

Not recommended for the faint of heart or the inexperienced.  That said, many of the friends with me that day had never experienced Sumaging or any caves for that matter… so who am I to discourage.  Did they ever enter another cave?  No.

The obstacles that we went through would consist of rappelling down small openings with the use of ropes – squeezing and contorting sometimes,

sitting on our butts and inch our way down if ropes were unavailable, hugging rocks,

walking along narrow ridges with only a rope to hold on to –this I can guarantee are steep cliffs and falling can be fatal, and a lot of listening and following (mostly the guides’ instructions).

Halfway and nearing Sumaging, the chambers would have icy cold pools where one can take a dip or rest on the banks.

Like Sumaging, Lumiang is beautiful, breathtaking even but unlike Sumaging, it can really test your limits.  A bragging right of sort, me think.

Would I do it again?  Perhaps.  I always believe though that the first time is always the most memorable.  It stays vivid in your memory like it was yesterday.  I remember more my first descent on Sumaging 18 years ago than the more recent Lumiang-Sumaging traverse.

Early this year, I accompanied friends to Sumaguing.  These friends of mine have never gone into a cave ever.  It was as I remembered it but less intimidating – I didn’t have to step on anyone’s shoulders, to say the least.

I didn’t push Lumiang… Sumaging was bittersweet for them – challenging yet a source of pride for finishing.  Exactly my sentiments each time – Sumaging or Lumiang.

Useful Tips:

1.  Aquasocks or river shoes proves best inside the cave.  I used my Five Fingers on my last trip and I didn’t have to take them off.  But sandals are good too.

2.  Wear quick drying shirts. Rash guards would keep you warmer.

3.  Never go in the cave without a guide.  Register for a guide at the Tourist Information Center at the Municipal Hall.

4.  Best is to bring headlamps and helmets (for Lumiang).

5.  Water and towel is likewise advised.

6.  Always follow your guide’s instructions.  They know best.

Posted on by Jenn 4

Random Travel Snaps: Threatened Heirlooms

Upland palay (unhusked rice grains) left on the road to dry —  somewhere between Kiangan and Banaue, Mt. Province.

Kalinga Unoy Sun Dried Rice – Red heirloom rice from the terraced fields of the Philippines.

Kalinga Unoy is a rusty-red, speckled colored rice grown with organic methods on ancient terraces in the Philippines, then naturally sun-dried for three days.

Cook Kalinga like you would other rice. A delicate, sweet, nutty aroma lifts off it when it’s cooking and follows right through to the flavor of the finished dish. Great as a side or even as a focus of the meal. Its aroma and flavor will get you excited, I guarantee.  

~ As described on Zingerman’s Mail Order, an on-line shop

Kalinga Unoy, Ulikan Red, Tinawon Fancy, Tinawon White – these are some the varieties of traditional upland rice grown in the Cordillera region, cultivated by their ancestors for hundreds of years.  For generations, planting, cultivating, harvesting of rice have been the foundation of their culture.  But in the last decade or so, both the terraces and the indigenous culture have been slowly losing its durability.  The century old rice terraces are gradually deteriorating brought about by man’s carelessness, disuse and the changing weather. The terraces are too steep for machineries and the absence of which makes terrace farming back-breaking and hard.  It has lost its appeal to the younger generation who are leaving the mountains, abandoning strenuous farming for “greener pastures” elsewhere.

Rice supply of late comes mostly from lowland rice as upland or heirloom rice are low-yielding due to low tilling capacity.  Besides this, various problems related to changes in weather and infliction of rodents, pests and diseases, have had traditional rice farmers replacing traditional rice with high yielding, early maturing hybrid varieties.  Heirloom seeds and terraces however are considered a connection to their ancestors and the elders are anxious of losing this heritage.

Through upgraded technology provided by Department of Agriculture and the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI), farms in the uplands see hope of becoming self-sufficient once again.

Upland rice holds its own characteristics, uniquely ingrained through farming traditions that has been protected for thousands of years.  It has formed a niche in the world market given its distinct delectable taste and health benefits particularly from the organic conscious consumers.  Through the help of the Revitalized Indigenous Cordillera Entrepreneurs, Inc (RICE), Kalinga’s Unoy Red rice is now being sold in the US.   There’s light at the end of the tunnel for the threatened heirlooms, it seems.

Posted on by Jenn 1

Kuang Si Falls

Picturesque and very accessible – Kuang Si falls, 29 km south of Luang Prabang, has become a popular attraction outside of the world heritage city.  Surrounded by lush forest, the falls is 3 tiered, all picture perfect.

The breathtaking main falls is 60 meters high while the rest, equally stunning, are 1-3 meter cascades that creates small aquamarine pools.

The water invites especially on a hot day, many take a dip, some even take to jumping off trees for some thrills.

A forest trail leads the top of the falls where you’ll find the source of the Kuang Si in a stream.

The surrounding area was developed into a lovely park with bridges, a picnic area with tables and even a changing room for those wanting to swim.  My journey to Kuang Si wasn’t as easy as taking a tuk-tuk to the entrance of the park.

It started when a van picked us up and dropped us off (an hour later) at a Hmong community.

There we learned the difference between the Hmong as compared to the rural Lao lowlanders.  To get to the falls, we trekked through paddy fields and pineapple gardens before entering a rain forest.

Halfway through our trek, we stopped for a simple Lao lunch prepared by the outfitter.

About 3 hours later, the hilly trail took us to a stream that we soon realized was the stream feeding the Kuang Si.

The view from the top looking down the pool below was spectacular.  Expecting to approach the falls the regular way from below, the realization of ending at the top was a wonderful surprise and quite memorable, truth to tell.

I made this trek 4 years ago with Green Discovery.  Spare an extra day for this if you can, it’s worth the effort.

Posted on by Jenn 9

A Leisurely Stroll Through Luang Prabang

Credits: Papers by Sahlin Studio’s Sweet Story Telling papers, Creativity by Crystal’s Room Collection Solids; Elements by Sahlin Studio Sweet Story Telling Kit.

It was a beautiful ordinary day.  No agenda, we just played it by ear, went with the flow.  The plan was to leisurely walk the streets and see where it takes us.

The serene atmosphere of this enchanting city begs for nothing more.  Having strolled down these streets before, it was interesting to see new ventures turning up while many stayed the same.

Luang Prabang lies in the heart of the mountainous region of North Laos.  Also known as the jewel of Indochina, the ancient royal city sits between the junction of the Mekong and the Nam Kahn Rivers.

And our nice little boutique hotel, Villa Deux Rivieres is situated somewhere near the junction in Kingkitsareth Rd.

Monks with their signature umbrellas in Sakkarine St. — a quieter part of town.

Great location as it really is just a short walk away from many places of interest and the main street, Sakkarine,

The busier street of Sisavangvong has more tuk-tuks and motobikes lining the streets.

which turns into Sisavangvong St. if you walk further.  We spent a lot of time in Sakkarine St. browsing, sometimes buying from the many little shops or relaxing in several of the cafes lining the stretch.

Café Ban Vat Sene across the charming Wat Sene and Le Banneton with its wonderfully crusted breads are our favorites hang-outs.  We sat outdoors and enjoyed the cool air and the easy going vibe of the town.

Those breads lured us to Le Banneton

Caruso Lao never fails to lure me in each time we walk pass it.  Beautiful stuff on display, a bit pricey but well worth the workmanship, me think.

And look what I have displayed at home.  There could have been more, if freight wasn’t so ridiculously high.

Comprising this enchanting little city are ancient structures, a Royal Palace, a National Museum,

Wat Sene along Sakkarine Rd.

and a concentration of golden temples they call Wats, all thirty-four of which have been listed for preservation.

Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995, is undoubtedly rich in cultural heritage and has both historical and natural sites to boast.

Traditional wooden dwellings and old colonial style houses fused into a distinct cultural tradition with beautiful landscapes that surrounds.  Mount Phousi perched in the middle of town showcases stunning views of the surrounding temples and hills.

It is a city where time seemed to have stood still.  The old town (their historical district) in particular has an old world charm,

reminiscent of the 1940’s where bicycles dominate and colonial style interspersed with traditional houses line the streets with some vintage cars even.

Small enough to explore by foot, we started our stroll at our hotel in Kingkitsarath to the bank where Khan and Mekong meet. The street, as in many in Luang Prabang, becomes Khem Khong or Mekong Rd at some point.

At the confluence, a path led to the river below where a wooden bridge stands.  Across is a handicraft and weaving village that one can explore but we didn’t venture out there anymore.

Instead, we continued on Khem Khong to get to Wat Xieng Thong – perhaps the most magnificent but definitely the most important and impressive of Lao temples.  There is a cluster of  ancient buildings dating back to the mid 16th century.

At the back of Wat Xieng Thong is a tree of life mosaic in colored glass.  Anyone with a keen interest in Lao history should not miss the religious artworks and artifacts housed here.

When it was time for lunch, we went for L’Elephant, an institution in its own right in Luang Prabang.  Menu was mostly French.

For starters we had a refreshing Carrot and Orange Salad and a superb Escargot baked in Garlic and Parsley Butter – cooked the way we like it.  For main, I had the Mekong Perch in Coriander Sauce and A had Stuffed Roasted Boneless Quail.  I say fine dining at its best in Luang Prabang.

The laid back, open-air atmosphere with high ceiling fans half expects you to see Rick Blaine come out and entertain.

In between lunch and a traditional lao massage, we explored more of Khem Kong, definitely a very quiet street where many upscale hotels are located.

Khem Kong facing the Mekong

 One of many roadside restaurants with a view of the Mekong or the Nam Khan

We then visited the Haw Kham, which is now known as the National Museum.

Once the Royal Palace, the building is a fusion of Traditional Lao and French design.  It houses an impressive collection of royal memorabilia and religious artifacts.

Every night, Hmong people come dowm from their villages in the mountains to sell their hand-made products,

typical Lao arts and crafts that include appliquéd blankets, silver jewelries, embroidered bags and a lot more.

A short walk-through here is more than adequate if a bargain hunter you are not.  They  have interesting and tasteful designs at a bargain, the quality is another thing though. But I guess you get what you pay for.   🙂

Many of the stalls here sell Lao street foods but we had our eyes set on Mango Tree in a quieter part of Sakkarine St.

Suffice it to say that dinner was fabulous.  Superb Lao dishes plated beautifully and served in a casual garden setting.

An extraordinary meal to cap an ordinary day, I must say.

So tell me, how can you not fall in love with Mekong’s jewel, its beautiful people,

its heritage and its shabby chic French fused Lao architecture that is so uniquely Luang Prabang?

Useful Info:

Villa Deux Rivieres
Kingkitsarath Rd., Ban Khily
Luang Prabang, Laos
+856 207737 8575
 
Cafe Ban Vat Sene
Sakkarine Rd.,
Luang Prabang, Laos
+856 71 252 482
 
Le Banneton
46 Sakkarine Rd., (opposite Wat Sop)
Luang Prabang, Laos
+856 21 217 321
 
 
L’Elephant Restaurant
Ban Vat Nong
Luang Prabang, Laos
+856 71 252 482
 
 
Mango Tree
Sakkarine Rd.,
Luang Prabang, Laos
+856 71 253 750

Wat Xieng Thong
Khem Khong Rd.,
Luang Prabang, Laos
Admission: 20,000 kip
 
National Museum
Sisavangvong, Luang Prabang
+856 71 212 122
Admission: 10,000 kip
 
 
 
Posted on by Jenn 3

Early Morning Alms

I am not a morning person and waking up early can be such an effort.  Laos somehow has managed to get me up at the crack of dawn, and for good reasons.  When we snuck out of our hotel’s gate fence one early January morning, the streets were still quiet with only street lamps lighting our way to Old Town, as Luang Prabang’s historic district is called. Here, the day seemed to have started already.

Villagers found their spot, kneeling on mats, waiting with a basket of sticky rice, fruits or sweets.

Vendors likewise positioned themselves near tourists, waiting for an opportunity to sell.

We sat at a corner with our camera watching the day progress.

Every morning, between 5 & 6AM, the monks of Luang Prabang’s 30 or so temples collect alms from the kneeling pilgrims and some early rising tourists.

Barefoot, they parade through the picturesque streets single file from oldest to youngest in their burnt sienna robes carrying alms bowls over their shoulder.

Alms giving have been practiced here every morning as townsfolk provide the monk’s daily sustenance for hundreds of years now.  They say that the monks are only allowed to eat food given to them in the morning of each day hence the daily ritual.

Those that give, they also say, earn merits for the good deed.

Cultural aside, this century old tradition is a spectacle on its own – waves of mandarin clad monks flood the streets contrasting the green trees and traditional white structures.  And as soon as it has started, it is over, and people start going their way.  We head for breakfast.

Café Ban Vat Sene.  We had coffee and dessert here last night and were instantly drawn to the place – the atmosphere relaxed with a Parisian café vibe.  But you see a lot of those as Luang Prabang has a natural laid-back atmosphere with a large French influence from architecture to restaurants and bakeries.  The cool January air summons us to sit outside for breakfast and watch the last of the procession.

They make wonderful French breads– baguettes, croissants, pain de campagne… with homemade jams

and a freshly brewed pot of coffee – my day has officially started.

Useful Info:

This religious ceremony is one of Luang Prabang’s major attraction, tourists must learn to be courteous and respectful of this tradition.  Please click here to know what and what not to do.

Cafe Ban Vat Sene
Open daily from 6am – 10pm
For reservations, call: +856 71 252 482
Posted on by Jenn 7