Many, many years ago, 1994 I think it was, we made a day trip to Sagada from Banaue. We found ourselves a guide and he suggested that we do the caves. That was 18 years ago, I was not the same person I am today. I hesitated, “I’ll stay in the jeep”, I told my friends. They looked at me, “that’s a 3-hour wait”. “But my shoes (a trekking boots) will get dirty”, I said. Bewildered, they just looked at me and started walking down the steep stairs leading to the opening of Sumaging. A friend stayed with me but when the last of them disappeared from our sight, she convinced me to do it as she has already decided to go for it. Long story short, I gave in.
Slippery step after slippery step, I was cursing. “I will never EVER listen to you guys again”. But at least I didn’t cry like one of our companions. I was too angry to cry. Yes, it was terrifying, especially for a first timer.
But it gets better as you walk pass the guano covered rocks. Yes again, those rocks aren’t only slippery, they’re stinky as hell too.
As we walk those boulders with only a gasera (gas lamp) lighting our way, I would imagine slipping and falling into a deep pit – for all you know, it ain’t that deep but the surroundings were pitch dark so imaginations can get wild, believe me.
At a certain point, we were asked to take off our shoes. Well, at least my (trek) boots won’t get wet, I thought. But my next worry though was how on earth are we to manage those slippery rocks barefooted. Best. Thing. Ever.
The pumice-like rocks had enough traction that your feet practically stick to those boulders. Amazing.
Still cursing though as we not only rappel up and down to get to other chambers, we had to step on our guides too, if no other options will do (shoulders or thighs lang naman).
Beautiful stone formations with names like King’s curtain, pig pen, pregnant woman, rice terraces formation etc. are found in those chambers.
It was definitely the saving grace of this “craziness”, truth to tell.
Recounting our adventure that evening, I started with “Next time we do this again, I will…”, they all looked at me, “I thought you will never EVER do this again?” Oh well.
I was somewhat true to my word, I never entered Sumaging since. Not saying though that I haven’t done Cueba de Oro, San Carlos, Sierra, Baggao caves since that fateful day. Unbeknownst to me then, Sumaging would be my intro to the outdoors and life has never been the same since. Although caving or spelunking, as they call it, will never really be a favorite activity but if push comes to shove, I’ll do it. Anything for camaraderie.
Fast forward to 2005, I heard of the Lumiang-Sumaging traverse. Curious and not wanting anything new to pass me by, I ventured once more to the uncomfortable with friends in tow.
We started early as this would take us 4-5 hours, they said. More experienced this time, it wasn’t as daunting but to say it was challenging might be an understatement.
Not recommended for the faint of heart or the inexperienced. That said, many of the friends with me that day had never experienced Sumaging or any caves for that matter… so who am I to discourage. Did they ever enter another cave? No.
The obstacles that we went through would consist of rappelling down small openings with the use of ropes – squeezing and contorting sometimes,
sitting on our butts and inch our way down if ropes were unavailable, hugging rocks,
walking along narrow ridges with only a rope to hold on to –this I can guarantee are steep cliffs and falling can be fatal, and a lot of listening and following (mostly the guides’ instructions).
Halfway and nearing Sumaging, the chambers would have icy cold pools where one can take a dip or rest on the banks.
Like Sumaging, Lumiang is beautiful, breathtaking even but unlike Sumaging, it can really test your limits. A bragging right of sort, me think.
Would I do it again? Perhaps. I always believe though that the first time is always the most memorable. It stays vivid in your memory like it was yesterday. I remember more my first descent on Sumaging 18 years ago than the more recent Lumiang-Sumaging traverse.
Early this year, I accompanied friends to Sumaguing. These friends of mine have never gone into a cave ever. It was as I remembered it but less intimidating – I didn’t have to step on anyone’s shoulders, to say the least.
I didn’t push Lumiang… Sumaging was bittersweet for them – challenging yet a source of pride for finishing. Exactly my sentiments each time – Sumaging or Lumiang.
1. Aquasocks or river shoes proves best inside the cave. I used my Five Fingers on my last trip and I didn’t have to take them off. But sandals are good too.
2. Wear quick drying shirts. Rash guards would keep you warmer.
3. Never go in the cave without a guide. Register for a guide at the Tourist Information Center at the Municipal Hall.
4. Best is to bring headlamps and helmets (for Lumiang).
5. Water and towel is likewise advised.
6. Always follow your guide’s instructions. They know best.