Takayama Morning Markets

It was cold. The warmth of the comforter and the futon was extremely inviting, but I was determined not to give in to the temptation because we are going to the market today.

Jinya-scenic-walk-4

So at exactly 6am, we ambled to the morning market nearer to the ryokan, watching the city wake up along the way.

At the Jinya-mae market, we watched it come to life one stall at a time.

Jinya-morning-market

I expected to see a much bigger market than the neighborhood market it really is.

More of a farmer’s market, it sells a lot of foodstuff and produce from gigantic, gorgeous but expensive fresh fruits and vegetables to rice cakes and

pickled vegetables all wanting to be purchased, begging to be noticed at the least. We eventually gave in to this corn – the sweetest and crunchiest I’ve ever had, and that is not an exaggeration.

If we weren’t heading back to the ryokan for breakfast, I would have feasted on a few more.

Thank God for good judgement as breakfast was lavish in Hakuun!

There are two morning markets (Asa-ichi) in Takayama that takes place daily from 6am till noon. The Jinya-mae morning market can be found in front of Takayama Jinya, a historical office building from the Edo Period said to be the only remaining building of its kind.

Not far from the Sanmachi district is Miyagawa morning market.

This market situated along the east bank of the Miyagawa River is bigger and I believe geared more towards the tourists.

Stalls selling crafts of wood or fabric, souvenirs, street foods are spotted alongside fruits and vegetables stands.

Interesting bites that had us so full but wanting more. So with these bites in tow, we explored the market.

Here, tourists abound or maybe it was the time of the day – when the city was already fully awake and vibrant with life. Here, the lure to buy is much, much greater. Here, I looked, I tried some, I got a few to take home.

Posted on May 23, 2013May 24, 2013 by Jenn 2

Old Town Splendor

It was close to lunch when we hailed a taxi at the Takayama Station to take us to Futurishizuka Hakuun, our Ryokan. Not exactly at the center of town but Takayama is small enough to go around on foot anyway. A leisurely walk to town took us about 15 minutes to Le Midi,

a French bistro recommended by the Ryokan, for an excellent Hida beef meal.

Lesser known internationally, the Hida region of Gifu Prefecture breeds top quality black cattle. As a mater of fact, it was given the highest prize by the same award giving body that made Kobe beef what it is today. And when in Takayama and the surrounding areas around the Hida region, a Hida beef meal should be high on your list.

But more than Hida beef, Takayama is visited for its famous historic townscape.

At the center of town, old wooden houses from the Edo period line both sides of the streets of Sanmachi imparting an atmosphere straight from the 19th century.

Most of these are still private homes while a few are now shops, inns, and restaurants.

Many museums, galleries, and even sake breweries likewise coexist with the old private houses in that quarter. The three narrow streets that form Sanmachi are “Nationally Recognized Important Historical Preservation Areas”.

Takayama was the center of Japan’s timber industry and was known for its expertise in carpentry. It is believed that carpenters from this town worked on palaces and temples in Kyoto and Nara hence the well-preserved quarter.

The striking black luster of the buildings were the result of rich merchants back then trying to hide the use of the best but prohibited wood by painting their houses with soot, which in my opinion gave the city its character in the end.

The old town is where the action is; just a short distance from each other is where most of the attractions are.

And for the remaining portion of the day, we walked around town not exactly aimless but with a loose agenda, and this was where our meanderings took us:

Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan

Ranked as one of Japan’s most beautiful festival, the Takayama Matsuri Festival always attracts a large number of spectators. Magnificent floats are pulled through the streets of Takayama’s old town during the festival held every spring and autumn.

The Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan or the Festival Floats Exhibition Hall displays on rotation four of the eleven floats used in the festival. Many of the floats that date back from the 17th century are of gilded wood intricately carved with detailed decorative metalwork. If not displayed in the hall, they are stored in tall storehouses called yatai-gura scattered quite noticeably around the town. And these elaborately crafted floats are excellent showcases of the special skills the Hida-Takayama craftsmen are known for.

Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine

Just across the exit of the exhibition hall is the shrine where the Matsuri Festival is held every year. It was built during the time of Emperor Nintoku and later made bigger than the original under Lord Kanamori. It was officially established to protect a part of Takayama,

Sakurayama Nikko Kan

The Nikko Toshogu is a Shinto shrine in Nikko Tochigi Prefecture dedicated to the first shogun of the Edo Shogunate, Tokugawa Ieyasu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Shogunate spent a fortune and took 15 years to reconstruct the Toshogu.

The entrance fee of the Matsuri Yatai Kaikan includes the Sakurayama Nikko Kan, a hall displaying the impressive one-tenth scale replica of the Nikko Toshogu.

The replica, after the war, was shown in the United States and in a few decades later, in Japan. Today, it has found its home at the Sakurayama Nikko Kan complete with a computerized lighting system programmed to alternate sunrise to sunset. It is a beautiful exhibit not to be missed.

Yoshijma Heritage House

Built by master carpenter Nishida Isaburo in 1907. The Yoshijima family was a prosperous merchant engaged in money lending and the production of sake in Takayama. And it once had a building where sake once brewed and plastered storehouses where sake was stored before being sold. Unfortunately, most of the structure has been torn down with only a small part remaining.

Well maintained, the house has posts and beams polished and smoothened through the years to a rich brown tone delivering a sense of sophistication to an already beautiful old house. Another a must see.

As we continue to explore the town, we decided on an early dinner of Tonkatsu.

Unlike the ordinary Tonkatsu we know, this deep-fried breaded pork fillet is placed on top of a magnolia leaf with the sweet sauce heating on a dish with fire underneath. Tender and juicy, this meal was the perfect way to end the exploration.

Back in our Ryokan, we reveled at our ante room, put our feet up, and sipped our green teas. We were in good spirits.

I wasn’t planning to, but the hot tub was calling out to me.

Nestled on a hill, Futurishizuka Hakuun is favored with a wonderful view of the city and mountain. It has in some rooms a private hot bath. And our tub has that view – beats having a massage any day.

hot-bath

As I lay down in the tub, I see steam all around, and I feel heat melting the weariness from all the walking done the past few days. Knowing that there will be more, I welcome this tonight. And maybe tomorrow too.

Useful Info:

Yoshijima Heritage House

Hours: 9:00AM to 5:00PM (Mar – Nov); 9:00AM to 4:30PM (Dec – Feb)

Closed on Tues (Dec – Feb, when Tue falls on a national holiday, it is open and is closed the following day)

Admission: ¥500

Festival Floats Exhibition Hall & Sakurayama Nikko Kan

Hours: 8:30AM to 5:00PM (Mar – Nov); 9:00AM to 4:30AM (Dec – Feb)

Admission: ¥820

Posted on May 16, 2013May 23, 2013 by Jenn 8

Nishiki Market

Kyoto has a kitchen in a vibrant retail market specializing in all things related to food –

fresh seafood, fresh produce, fresh fruits, sweets, knives, cookware, etc. – 5 blocks long, lined with more than one hundred shops and restaurants. This is where to find Kyoto’s specialties and many seasonal foods.

Located in central Kyoto, this narrow market has supplied Kyoto’s residents with high quality traditional ingredients for centuries. The history extends some 400 years ago, and many shops are still operated by their founding families.

nishiki-market

A walk down Nishiki-koji will give you a sense of what Kyoto is all about. This may not appeal to just any visitor, but this can be pure heaven to lovers of food and the kitchen.

In the narrow alleys of the market, the stalls are filled with food items of any kind – some already prepared while others yet to be cooked. A great place to eat too, with so many intriguing eateries to choose from and we could have, but they close at 5.

Local markets, I believe, reflects the culture and economy of a place and visiting these markets is one of my joys in traveling. Whenever you can on your next trip, go hit the market. It usually is a plethora of everyday stuff that characterizes a city.

Useful Info

Getting There: From JR Kyoto Station, take the Karasuma Subway to the Shijo Station. It is a 5 mins walk to the market. The market is parallel to Shijo Ave., connected to the Teramachi Shopping arcade.

Nishiki Market

Nishikikōji-dōri between Teramachi & Takakura

Opens daily except Wednesday from 9am – 5pm

Posted on March 20, 2013 by Jenn 2

The Train Station and The Ramen

It is a feast of steel and glass with a concave shape interior that opens to the sky, massive with a 60-mile long atrium and 171 steps of stairs.

With a hotel, a shopping mall, a movie theater, a department store, a food court and 2 tourist information centers in one roof, the Kyoto Train Station is a splendid example of modern architecture and somewhat controversial when it was built in the mid ‘90s.

It is, nevertheless, a chic way to enter or leave Kyoto.

It has an old fashion charm to it, but I am partial to traveling by train because not only is it easier on the budget, it is also less of a hassle and more flexible in terms of schedule. However, purchasing train tickets and finding your way around stations can be confusing if English is not spoken fluently. We believe that being there a day before to get the tickets and familiarize ourselves with the place makes it less stressful on the day itself.

And spending the morning at the incredible Kyoto Train Station was enjoyable. With the essentials done and over with, we explored the building.

The Cube is a shopping mall that starts at the basement and goes all the way up to the 11th floor. Kyoto Ramen Koji is on the 10th. It is a “ramen alley” with seven different ramen shops and a coffee and dessert station. Choosing a place was a daunting task – never thought ramen could be so complicated. So we decided to choose the one with the longest line – the popular one, we thought. The problem was we needed to order through a vending machine, which was all in Japanese. The restaurant staffs do not speak English and therefore, could not explain the process. We finally chose Hakata Ikkousha because:

a) girl at the door knew some English.

vending-machine

b) they had the 2nd longest line

It was a long line… really!

c) it also has an English name and it promises to make people happy with their dish.

ikkousha

No way of comparing, we decided that the ramen we had was fantastic, though I could go without the rice with fish roe, which came as a set for ¥1,000.

The pork literally melts in the mouth; the broth flavorful and the noodles are al dente. It could be, by far, our cheapest meal in Kyoto.

On our way out of ramen alley, I could hear the desserts at the corner ever so softly but persistently calling my name.

Thank you Chasen, for calling out to me. You did not disappoint. The mochi was exceptional.

Useful Info

Kyoto Train Station

901, Higashi-Shiokojicho (JR west)

1-3, Higashi-Shikoji Takakura0cho (JR central)

Posted on March 16, 2013March 20, 2013 by Jenn 11

East of Kyoto: Of Geishas and Wagyu

Their world a mystery to me, my fascination with Geishas is one reason I am walking the streets of Gion.

To catch a Gion Odori (a geisha dance performance) at the Gion Kaikan Theater was high on my list of priorities but the timing was off. So the next best thing is to take the streets where they frequent.

Filled with shops, restaurants and ochoyas (teahouses), Gion is Kyoto’s most celebrated geisha district, Hanami-koji being the most popular.

The street and side alleys are lined with beautifully preserved traditional wooden townhouses called machiyo. Many of which have become expensive restaurants, serving Kyoto-style kaiseki ryori (Japanese haute cuisine), some even extend to dance performances by real maiko dancers.

The number of geishas has significantly declined in the last one hundred years and to catch a glimpse, of either a geisha, or a maiko is scarce today. But despite the dwindling lot, the present “women of art” still practice her skill with the same diligence as those before her.

More than my fascination with geishas, my obsession with food brought me to Gion. The best way to get acquainted with the places I visit (in my opinion) is to immerse in the local cuisine. Japanese food is no exception even if it is arguably among the top in the international cuisine scene these days. In fact, as I ventured into its different cuisine, I went home with a deeper appreciation and understanding of its food.

The cobbled-stoned Shinbanshi St. is a traditional building preservation area in Gion Shinbanshi.

The street runs along the Shirakawa canal lined with willow trees, making it one beautiful, scenic stroll.

On top of that, it is a restaurant row, most of which overlooks the canal. We walked the strip of high-end restaurants and teahouses partly in search for a place to dine that evening.

Pontocho restaurants overlooking the river transform into a spectacular view at night.

Across the Kamogawa river is Pontocho, said to be home to many geisha houses and traditional teahouses.

The alley that runs parallel to the Kamo River, once a leading geisha district, is also one of Kyoto’s most atmospheric dining areas. It is packed with a range of dining options, including affordable Yakitori, traditional Kyoto cuisines and private establishments.

In this small alleyway, we found Kyoshikian – a well-appointed teppanyaki-style restaurant that had us at Wagyu.

So relieved that we opted to share, as I could only take so much of the beef sirloin due to its intense marbling.

A side of grilled vegetables and seared tuna was perfect to tone down the richness.

Walking back to Shoji-dori, Gion’s main street, after a truly filling dinner, a woman totally made up and in full kimono regalia walked pass me.

Shoji-dori at night

“There’s a geisha”, I whispered to my friends. “She could also be a maiko”, one whispered back.

Useful Info:

Gion Kaikan Theater

Address: 323 Gionmachi Kitagawa, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto

Tel: +81 75 561 0160

Transport: Gion Shijo Station

Kyoshikian

Address: 227 Nabeyamachi, Pontocho Shijo-dori Agaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto

Schedules: click here

Posted on March 4, 2013March 7, 2013 by Jenn 5

East of Kyoto: Shrines, Temples and Garden

Lunch was very satisfying… and the rain abated after all. So walk some more we did.

Chion-in Temple was not easy to find. The map was confusing. We walked back and forth several times between the Yasaka Shrine and the Maruyama Park. It was tiring, walking back and forth looking for the right turn, but the scenery was a sight to behold so I didn’t mind so much.

murayama-trees

Once you find the temple, it isn’t difficult at all, we realized. We just had to trust our instincts more.

Yasaka-jinja Shrine is a colorful downtown shrine that stands at the end of a main street, Shijodori St. Long connected with the Kyoto Geisha community centered in the nearby Gion District, the shrine dates back to the 9th century, when it aimed to stop the run of epidemic and other disasters that were afflicting the Kyoto residence at that time.

yasaka-shrine

Many visit the shrine today to pray for good fortune. The shrine was quiet on our visit with only a few visitors praying. Come early July, the shrine will be full of visitors as it plays host to the Gion Matsui Festival, a festival to drive away evil spirit.

Right behind Yasaka Shrine is Maruyama Koen Park. Best known for its many weeping cherry blossom tree or shidarezakura.

murayama-entrance

It may attract thousands of people for the hanami or the cherry blossom viewing parties in spring, but in autumn, the warm hues of fall can be quite enchanting.

Now this was where we didn’t make the turn. We should have turned left at the corner where the “tallest” shidarezakura stands, instead we went straight and found ourselves on a road leading to a trail up a hill.

Close to the northeast corner of Maruyama is Chion-in Temple, which now serves as the headquarters of the Jodo (Pure Land) sect of Buddhism.

A huge and very popular temple, its colossal front gate is the largest of its kind in Japan, delivering a vision of grandeur.

Unfortunately, the main temple is under major maintenance and will not be ready for viewing till 2019. Yeah… all the effort for this 🙂

Useful Info:

Yasaka-jinja Shrine

625 Kitagawa,

Gion-machi, Higashiyama-ku

075-651-6155

*8 minutes walk from Gion-Shijo on Keihan line

Maruyama Koen Park

473 Maruyama-cho, Higashiyama-ku

075-222-3586

*5 minutes walk from Gion-Shijo on Keihan line

Chion-in Temple

400 Rinko0cho, Higashiyama-ku

075-531-2111

*Take bus 206 and get off at the Chion-in Mae stop. 20 minutes walk to temple

Posted on February 26, 2013February 28, 2013 by Jenn 8

East of Kyoto: Southern Higashiyama Neighborhood Walk

Credits: Papers by Designs by Tater from ScrapMatter’s Life’s Little Surprises Kit.

The guesthouse took sometime to find. Tucked away in a street where cars aren’t allowed. The driver of our shuttle service eventually found it; he led us into a narrow residential street.

The house is charming, even at night. A young man let us in, cheerfully welcoming us at 10 in the evening. The real owners of Yamato Guesthouse are his parents, Kenzo and Nagako.

He was there for the weekend, I figured. I noticed a group was enjoying some drinks at a corner so I asked if they served dinner — we were hungry, arriving straight from Kansai International Airport. Of course, they only serve breakfast but they accommodated our request and prepared something simple after seeing our hungry faces. The other group, it turned out, are friends visiting hence the beer and the snacks – I felt a bit embarrassed about our dinner request. 😯 Such is the hospitality of the Japanese and of our host.

Nagako served quite an exquisite breakfast and for 2 days I felt very pampered

The former capital of Japan is famous for its temples and shrines, a beautiful city with tradition and culture filled to the brim. Kyoto is one of the oldest cities and there is so much to see. Even just zooming in on an area – the east side – we still barely scratched the surface. Two whole days is obviously not enough but that was all we had. We were merely passing through and we made the most of it.

Yamato, I estimate, is a good 10 minutes stroll away from Kiyomizu Temple — actually, it could be 20 if you window shop and ogle at everything interesting along the way.

The neighborhood consists of many interesting stores, delightful cafe and food stalls, which actually make for a pleasant stroll to the temple.

The street of our guesthouse comes out to Chawan-zaka, it actually leads to the temple but we chose instead to turn into a complex that has several flights of stairs,

A map of Asahizaka complex

stores and cafes line the way leading to Kiyomizu-zaka, where we chanced on more stores and tourists.

Kiyomizu-zaka from the temple

If you turn right, you will end up in Kiyomizu Temple.

Inside the temple, the tourists escalated in unbelievable proportion.

Half way through the temple, we gave up and settled for a much-needed coffee break and cream puffs.

Kiyomizu-dera is perhaps the most beloved of Kyoto’s temples.

It is a famous hilltop temple offering sweeping views of the old capital.

Popular with tourist and pilgrims, the temple is part of the Historic Monument of Ancient Kyoto and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The narrow cobbled street of Kiyomizu-zaka (if you walk away from the temple) will lead to Sannen-zaka and Ninen-zaka, a restored neighborhood oozing with old world charm.

Both streets are lined with old wooden houses, traditional shops and restaurants. It is a good example of the old Kyoto, the Kyoto everyone imagines. Despite the drizzle, it was a wonderful walk, quite uplifting I must say.

Following the route suggested by Lonely Planet, we found the street the guidebook described as “the most beautiful street in Kyoto”, Ishibei-koji. It is a quiet alley lined with high-end restaurants and ryokans. I saw a photographer taking shots of the street at the end of the stone-paved road. I went to where he stood and this was what came out.

Have to admit that this quiet street has character with its own stories to tell perhaps but to be identified as “the most” beautiful street puts too much pressure don’t you think? Beauty is indeed in the eyes of the beholder. Developed primarily as an area for luxurious rental homes, it is presently a favorite site to shoot TV dramas, movies and TV commercials.

At this point, it was already more than drizzling and it didn’t look like it would let up. We decided it was time for lunch.

Useful Info:

Guest House Yamato

6-539-23 Gojohashihigashi,

Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture

Kiyomizu Temple

1-294 Kiyomizu

Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture

Posted on February 15, 2013February 28, 2013 by Jenn 11

Best of 2012

Forgive the silence… would you believe that I ushered in the New Year with colds and fever? But that didn’t stop me from having friends over for the count down. No. I hope you all had a wonderful holiday.

Credits: Quickpage from JSprague’s 4ever kit, created by Brenda Neuberger

2012 has been good to me. Even with much less travels this year, I’ve managed a few unforgettable firsts. Here they are; some I have not even posted but will pre-empt:

1. The Bus Ride to Vang Vieng

A 4-hour bus ride from Vientaine on a sleeper bus made for petite Laotians. Worst was the bunks were meant for (yes) 2 petite Laotians. We’re definitely far from petite. So imagine the trip.

2. First time on a Hot Air Balloon

Soaring high in Vang Vieng, watching the town wake up. You get the best view in town, if you ask me.

3. The Boat Ride to Y’ami

An idea that came to fruition had us journeying to the northernmost island of the Philippines on a grueling 3-hour boat ride off Itbayat Island in Batanes. Why? I ask the same question many times over. An experience hard to topple.

4. A Night in Siayan

We had to break the grueling boat ride and stay overnight in an island about 1 hour away from Itbayat (the farthest inhabited island of Batanes) because the waters along the Bashi Channel can be treacherous particularly in the late afternoon. Getting to the island, beautiful as it is, is an adventure in its self.

5. Hiking Up to Cape Engaño

Beautiful sight, up there. That’s all I will say for now. Watch out for my post – coming soon.

6. Enjoying an Onsen Bath

While it snowed too. A totally exhilarating and liberating experience, I dipped in those pools two nights in a row. Awesomeness.

As for 2013, I’ve got some exciting plans already in the pipeline. I’ve been working hard to get that to fruition over the holidays, truth to tell. It is going to be an exciting year. I feel it in the air. How is your 2013 looking so far?

Posted on January 3, 2013January 3, 2013 by Jenn 6

my adventure odyssey

travel tales, gustatory delights and beyond

my adventure odyssey

Category: Japan

Takayama Morning Markets

Old Town Splendor

Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan

Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine

Sakurayama Nikko Kan

Yoshijma Heritage House

Useful Info:

Nishiki Market

Useful Info

The Train Station and The Ramen

It was a long line… really!

Useful Info

East of Kyoto: Of Geishas and Wagyu

Pontocho restaurants overlooking the river transform into a spectacular view at night.

Shoji-dori at night

Useful Info:

East of Kyoto: Shrines, Temples and Garden

Useful Info:

East of Kyoto: Southern Higashiyama Neighborhood Walk

Credits: Papers by Designs by Tater from ScrapMatter’s Life’s Little Surprises Kit.

Useful Info:

Best of 2012

Credits: Quickpage from JSprague’s 4ever kit, created by Brenda Neuberger