El Nido… Here I Come

But first, let me talk about Puerto Princesa.  Not exactly the paradise Palawan promises to be, it is however the gateway to the promise.   The capital of Palawan is the jump off point to many beautiful beaches, lush rainforests, stunning limestone cliffs and the clearest water teeming with marine life.  And just like many of my trips to Puerto Princesa, we made it our jump-off to El Nido, a favorite part of Palawan and our destination.

Always in transit, never really staying, Puerto Princesa managed to endear itself a few years back when we decided to stay a few days more after a live-aboard trip to Tubbataha and Cagayancillo.  A clean, quiet city that is best known today for its Underground River, a UNESCO World Heritage site featuring a spectacular karst landscape and an extensive underground river system.

And because the van to El Nido leaves early morning, we thought it best to spend a night and enjoy a bit of its good food.  If you know me by now, you know that good food is never far behind.

As soon as we touched down, before we even checked in to our inn, we headed straight to our favorite Vietnamese eatery in PP – Rene’s Saigon Restaurant.

They serve the best Beef Pho in town.  That’s Beef Stew Noodle soup and locals call it Chao Long.  Once a United Nations Vietnamese Refugee Center in the ‘70s, the capital had been introduced to Vietnamese culture and its food its greatest reward and keepsake.

Even on a hot summer’s day, this soup provides great satisfaction.  A bowl each and a shared Beef Bahn Mi – yes we love beef – is one fulfilling “welcome to Puerto Princesa” meal.

If you are to walk to Baywalk like we did, late afternoon (or early morning) is best during the hot summer.

A seafront strip that (sort of) reminds of Dumaguete’s Rizal Boulevard.  This strip, unlike that of Dumaguete’s, is tucked away from the road just beside the seaport.

Detained fishing boats for using illegal fishing methods.

Puerto Princesa Bay, a main port for smaller ship boats is likewise the main gateway to the many islets of Palawan by sea.  This is also where one would take a boat to watch the dolphins frolicking the bay early in the morning.

Long nose snouted spinner dolphins abound in the waters off Puerto Bay.

Many food stalls line the Baywalk strip offering various kinds of street food.

Trying a Tok Neneng — it really is just hard boiled eggs coated with an orange batter then fried.  It is flavored with the sauce of your choice ranging from sweet and sour to hot and spicy.
Some sort of a spicy cheese roll, the green pepper providing the heat.  Yum.

Seated near a stall enjoying our beer, our tok nenengs and the likes, the stall owner asked if we would be interested in some tamilok – a woodworm, sometimes also known as a shipworm.

It may look like a worm and called a worm, it is however not one.  It is a marine mollusk that tastes very much like fresh oysters, I found out.

Curious that Andrew Zimmern found it fabulous, I should give it a try myself, don’t you think?  Now, fabulous it is not (for me), but it definitely would pass as not bad.

The more popular restaurants were either closed or fully booked, we ended up trying a new kid on the block.

Blue Ginger serves Asian cuisine that is quite impressive but the one that had us all nodding our heads was this Texas Style Pork Ribs.

The chef’s American, that’s why.  In my books, this place is a serious addition to the many wonderful eats Puerto has to offer so far.

Satisfying day.  Tomorrow we’re off to my favorite Palawan getaway.

Useful Info

Rene’s Saigon Restaurant
Rizal Avenue Extension,
Puerto Princesa3
(048) 433-5255
 
Blue Ginger
Rizal Avenue,
Puerto Princesa
(0927) 545-5847

Route 13

Credits:  Papers by Creativity by Crystal’s Room Collection, Art & Soul Papers by Sahlin Studio, Story Telling Paper by Sahlin Studio.

Flying, albeit relatively expensive, is the easiest way to Luang Prabang.  But you miss all the stunning scenery along the way.  Nestled between the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, surrounded by mountains, getting there takes some effort via an 11-hour bus ride from Vientiane.  From Thailand, it’s a 2-day slow-boat.

We chose to take Route 13 because it was cheaper, the scenery – stunning and we wanted to stop at Vang Vieng even for just a day (although a day isn’t really enough).  From there, it still takes 7 hours on a meandering, poorly paved road leading to the ancient city, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The remarkable landscape makes the exhausting experience worthwhile.

We break the trip for lunch and there I had my bowl of delightful beef noodle soup as I had planned, remembering how good that bowl of soup was in 2007.  Lining up for that bowl, I watched with interest how they assembled the dish right before us.  First the fresh noodles, then the beef, the vegetables and at the end of the line sits a huge pot of soup ever so gently simmering under a slow fire.  The lady ladled up soup almost to the brim and handed it to me.

I devoured it with gusto.  It was as I remembered it to be, pretty damn good soup.

From that time till we reached Luang Prabang, we stopped a couple of times.  The entire bus tensed up when we realized that it was having problems with its brakes

– made even scarier when the air became dense with fog, which kept me awake and praying the rest of the trip.  We inched our way to the city and finally breathed a sigh of relief when we saw signs of city lights just around the bend.

It took us nine hours… but all is well that ends well.  Luang Prabang is worth it, I promise.

Not far from our nice little boutique hotel, just across The Apsara, is a sidewalk eatery I stumbled upon on my earlier trip.

It serves a mean Laotian-style BBQ that is a much like but not quite shabu-shabu.

It’s a cross between that and a Korean BBQ where the meat is grilled on the griddle while the soup is simmering on the same griddle.  As the meat cooks, the fatty juices drips on to the soup and I don’t have to tell you how divine that soup gets the longer it simmer and the more drippings it gets from the meat.  Brilliant.

And just like that, Luang Prabang has charmed me once more, today’s dreadful last stretch erased.

Getting There:  Click here for more options.

A Day in Vientiane

Credits: Page from Kayla’s Tin Album by Shabby Miss Jenn.

The outdoor seating at Dao Fa Bistro called out to us as we walked pass it.  We were tired from wandering the streets of Vientiane, visiting temples, doing some window-shopping and some real shopping along the way and resting our weary soles seemed like a good idea.

Right beside our table was a couple chatting over a plate of prosciutto on sliced garlic bread.  We decided to order the same.

While we watched the people pass by, we devoured our basket of this heavenly tasting cured ham on garlic bread over iced coffee and cold Beer Lao.  How French can you get?  Laos was under French rule from 1893-1953, the influence evident in the many French inspired bistros that line the streets.

Our day started early at the LCCT in Malaysia.  An early morning flight to Vientiane had us arriving in Laos’ capital at around 9AM.  A taxi prearranged with our hotel was waiting for us outside the Wattay International Airport.  “Welcome to Vientiane” the driver greeted us.  A friendly guy wanting to know more – where are we from, how long we’re staying, where else we’re going, so on and so forth.  What a nice start to our Laos adventure, me think!

After 15-20 minutes probably (I was so deep in conversation with the taxi driver, I lost track of time), we arrived at what looked like a pink colonial 3-storey building on an unpaved road across the Mekong River.  We thanked the driver and paid him Kip 64,000, equivalent to US$ 8 for the pick up.

The cool modern design of the interior was a contrast to the colonial style exterior.  The color maintained the same scheme of pink and light blue of the exterior.  We were told to wait as they fix our room and we can wait at The Spirit House, the restaurant next door.

It was 10AM so we opted to share an Egg’s Benedict, just enough to satisfy our hunger but leaving space for lunch.   This was the first of many good meals throughout this trip.  But I was expecting that and would have been disappointed if our meal were anything less than good.  In 2008, when I first visited Laos, I was amazed to find the food here superb – Laotian, French or a fusion of both.  Not leaving out the charm of Laos, the food was one major reason why I went back and writing to you about it.

Hotel Beau Rivage Mekong is a boutique hotel sitting on a quieter stretch (road still unpaved) of Fa Ngum Road, a short distance from the center of town where the main “riverside scene” is.

The Mekong River albeit practically dry in January serves as its main charm – great sunsets over cocktails is the main lure of their restaurant, The Spirit House.  A superior room would have the river view

while a standard room at US$ 53, had the garden view.

Our room was predictably pink – clean and spacious with a nice corner bar.

Leisurely walking to the main town, we would wander into streets; exploring shops that would catch our fancy when we happened to walk pass Makphet, a restaurant on the top of our list.

 We decided that lunch was going to be a little early since we were already there.

And as luck would have it, L’adresse de Tinay, the other restaurant we were eyeing was right beside so we made dinner reservations before we continued our exploring.

Clockwise: Grilled Beef Filet wrapped in Betel leaves with soy chili sauce, Green Mango Salad, Crispy Fried Mekong Fish with Sweet and Sour Tamarind Sauce, Red Hibiscus & Lime Breeze.

 Ranked by the 2009-2010 Miele Guide as one of the best restaurant in Asia, Makphet is a nice cozy restaurant serving modern Lao cuisine.  Not only do they serve wonderful food here, they are a “training restaurant” as well.

A training restaurant consists of culinary instructors from organizations such as Friends International to train homeless children and youths in the kitchen and in the front of house.  The group now run and support similar projects in Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia, Honduras, Mexico, Egypt and Myanmar.  Needless to say, the dishes we chose were excellent and service was good.  They taught them well.  Be sure to get there earlier as the place can get packed.

* More on Makphet here.

Stuffed yet happy to be ticking off one item off our long list so early in the trip.  We walked to Haw Phra Kaew, once a royal temple of the Laotian monarchy that now houses a decent museum of Laotian art.  Built in 1565 by King Sethathirath as his private sanctuary.  This charming temple used to house the famous Emerald Buddha, which is today housed in Bangkok.

Intricately designed columns surround the temple

and buddhas grace the hallways where many still worship.

Practically across Haw Phra Kaew on Setthathirath Rd. is Wat Si Saket – a favorite and no doubt one of the most beautiful in Vientiane.  Both are important Buddhist sites but the latter is known to be the oldest temple still standing.

Modernization:  This was what greeted us at the entrance.

Built Siamese (Thai) style rather than Lao style, which could have saved the temple from destruction when the Siamese army destroyed and burned most of Vientiane in 1828.  The French restored the temple in 1924 and again in 1930.  The sim or the ordination halls stands in the middle of a square cloister.

Thousand of small niches were built at the outer walls of the cloister with small Buddha images on each niche.  On shelves in front of the wall are three rows of Buddhas in various shape and size.

Along the edge of the cloister were potted plants abundantly blooming bringing life to the faded yellow walls and pillars, exuding a tranquil charm all its own.

Dinner at L’adresse de Tinay was the perfect cap to our tiring yet beautiful day in Vientiane.  Tomorrow, we journey on to a Vang Vieng.  L’adressee is so to speak the newest kid in town serving outstanding French cuisine.  When we arrived, we were shown to the table we personally picked that afternoon.  A young man in black came out to greet us and get our orders.  Deliberating on what to order, the young man started giving his two cents worth and recommendations, owning up to the dishes when it hit me…  “Are you the chef?” I asked and he smiled and humbly introduced himself as Chef Tinay.

Trained in France, he went back home and opened this gem of a place with the help of his French wife, Delphine.

Main dishes: Duck Confit served as a cassoulet with Toulouse Sausage in sweet garlic cream (bottom left); Perfectly cooked Rack of Lamb (bottom right)

Everything we had from start to finish was excellent, ending with Delphine’s Limoncello, which she herself served.  Excellent French meal for US$ 40 per person… can you actually believe that?

* More on L’Adresse de Tinay here.

And with that we went to bed pleased at how well the day went.

Useful Info:

Hotel Beau Rivage Mekong
Fa Ngum Road, 
Ban Seetarn Neua,
Vientiane, Laos
+85621-243-350
Email: contact@hbrm.com
 
Makphet
Behind Wat Ong Teu parallel to Sethathirat Road,
Vientiane, Laos
+85621-260-587
Email: Makphet@friends-international.org
 
L’adresse de Tinay
Behind Wat Ong Teu parallel to Sethathirat Road,
Vientiane, Laos
+85620- 913-434
Email: ladressedetinay@gmail.com

Road Trip Eats: Cagayan Valley

“If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay home,” James Michener

Cagayan Valley is composed of five (5) provinces namely: Batanes, Cagayan, Isabela, Nueva Vizcaya and Quirino.  It lies in a larger valley in northeastern Luzon, between the Cordilleras and the Sierra Mountain Ranges.

Abuan River in Ilagan, Isabela

I’ve traveled this road countless times and for good reasons.  Besides serving as a jump off point to activities such as whitewater rafting and kayaking, Cagayan Valley’s allure includes beautiful mountain ranges that never failed to blow me away, unspoiled caves (except for Callao, of course) that begs to be explored, breathtaking sceneries along pristine rivers, historical churches, and good friends forged through the years.  Another important reason why I keep coming back is the food and here’s why.

The rugged mountain ranges greet you once you hit Nueva Vizcaya, also called the gateway to Cagayan Valley.  I’ve always looked forward to this part of the drive precisely because of the stunning mountains ranges of the Sierra Madre, the Caraballo and the Cordilleras that surrounds this province.  Truth be told, given that there are a lot to explore, I’ve never really set foot here except to pick up some gorgeous citrus fruits along the highway at Busilac, Bayombong– whatever is the sweetest and in season.

Satsuma from Nueva Vizcaya

The province has become known for its citrus fruits and oranges, which is available all year round.  Open even at the wee hours of the evening for the night travelers, the row of fruits stand at Busilac sells different varieties of oranges, which includes Perante, Valencia, Clementine, Satsuma, Pongkan, Washington Navel.  Other citrus fruits like Pomelo are also available when in season.  A bit on the tart side and not as sweet as the Davao variety, this yellowish variety is refreshingly juicy and best with salads and made as juice.

As you journey on, stop at Ilagan, Isabela (about 120 km from Nueva Vizcaya) for some really good suman (rice cake) called Inatata.

Wrapped in banana leaves as most sumans are but distinctly bundled in 10s.  But what makes this adorable mini suman a cut above the rest lies not in the packaging but in the product itself.

Made of glutinous rice, sugar, butter and coconut milk, somewhat like Biko but smoother and creamier in texture.  I must warn you, these little babies are so good, it’s hard to stop.  A bundle goes so quickly and before you know it, you’re so stuffed.

Once you reach the town proper of Ilagan, you’ll find a nipa hut (or is it a bamboo?) stall somewhere around the rotunda that sells Inatata for P25 a bundle.  Get a few bundles and a few more for good measure, then go across to a Jollibee to get yourself some coffee to go with the it.  You’ll thank me for it.

Make sure to save some for the road or for dessert after a plate of Pancit Cabagan at Cabagan, Isabela.  They say Feli-Cita’s serves the best in Cabagan.  This pancit has become the benchmark of all pancits for me.  Nothing so far is better than Pancit Cabagan, a medley of stir-fried fresh noodles, julienned cabbage and carrots, boiled quail eggs, and a generous heap of lechon de carajay.  Eaten with fresh onions, local soy sauce and calamansi… heaven.  What makes this so heavenly are the fresh al dente noodles – an apparent secret that may be hard to replicate.

I always have mine not in Cabagan but in Natan’s.  A small outdoor restaurant just outside the Tuguegarao Airport.  This simple pleasure I can have without having to do a road trip actually.  I often look forward to trips to the airport (whether arriving or departing) for I can have my fix of Pancit Cabagan at Natan’s.  Pancit Cabagan and Coke… need I say more?

Speaking of Tuguegarao – my base when I’m in the region and the gateway to Peñablanca where the Pinacanauan River flows.

It is one of my favorite rivers where just hanging out along the riverbanks for a barbecue lunch and some kayaking is enough to make me happy. Kayaking aside, it is also home to the circadian flights of fruit bats – a must-see spectacle when in the area.

Longganisa served at Casa Carag

When in Tuguegarao, I make it a point to bring home packs of Tuguegarao Longganisa for my stash and to give as gifts.  I’ve never met anyone who’ve tried this garlicky sausage and not love it.

Native Chocolate at Casa Carag

Another must have when I’m in Tuguegarao is their Tsokolate.  Four tableas (tablets) to a cup makes a perfect native chocolate drink – just thick enough with the right amount of sweetness.  Tsokolate, longganisa, eggs and garlic fried rice = a power breakfast courtesy of Tuguegarao.

About 65km further north on your way to Sta. Ana perhaps, is the town of Lal-lo.  Although it is recognized in history as once being the seat of the Diocese until it was transferred to Vigan in Ilocos Sur a long time ago, I know it as a town that makes the best milk candy I have ever tasted.

Better than the more popular Alcala milk candy, I swear.  Both made of carabao’s milk but somehow, the one from Lal-lo is softer and creamier with seemingly more milk.  Both are not too sweet but the Lal-lo specialty wins hands down.  The thing is, you won’t find it at the Tuguegarao airport where the Alcala milk candy abound.

So if you find yourself in Lal-lo by any chance, look for this sign along the road.  I promise it is worth the stop.

Once you reach Sta. Ana, head straight to the market for some fat, sweet crabs, lobster and the freshest fish.

Known as a game fishing mecca, the rich fishing grounds yield lobsters, octopus, yellow fin tuna, blue marlin and many more.  Freshwater fish, crabs and shrimps likewise abound in inland fishing grounds.

Best is to buy them at the market and have it cooked in a restaurant nearby for a fee.  We had ours cooked by JnJ Seafood restaurant along the Highway.

Ok, enough…

I’ll leave you with this for now but let this be a Part 1 as I document more good eats from this region.  A region still underrated and unnoticed in the tourism realm.   Its people, its natural wonders and its food keeps me coming back for more.

Singapore Fling

Credits:  Papers by Queen of Quarks; Elements from Scrap Matter’s Life’s Little Surprises kit and You Are Awesome Kit by Crystal W.

Daniel Boulud’s Bistro Moderne, Mario Batali’s Mozza, Boon Tong Kee’s Chicken Rice… all part of my dad’s 70th birthday celebration.  Our whole family of 8 flew to Singapore in lieu of a big celebration and could be the best decision ever.

Not all with favorable reviews, I’m afraid.  The Marina Bay Sands was a let down.

The long lines at the check-in counter had me by surprise, and after that long wait, one of our rooms was not even ready.

We could go up to the famous skypark infinity pool while we wait, they suggested.  If the line at the check in counter had not turned off me off yet,

the pool in similar fashion definitely did.  It looked like a market place – although it did boast of 12.400 square meter of space that can host about 4,000 people and it probably did that day.  We ordered drinks and bar chows while the kids had a swim.  Service leaves much to be desired for…   Chefs Boulud and Batali were the reasons why we opted to stay at the Marina Bay Sands.  Next time, we will take a cab.   😦

Dinner at DB Bistro Moderne was superb, I had the classic Coq Au Vin and a Yuzu flavored ice cream dessert.

The pizzas at Pizzeria Mozza, I truly enjoyed.  I also had my first Burata here.  Yum.

To save the best for my dad’s night, we dined with gusto at Osteria Mozza – a great choice to mark his 70th – he loves food more than all of us combined.

Wonderful French and Italian cuisines aside, we also had our share of chicken rice, but of course!

One day for lunch, we headed out to River Valley Road for an authentic Chicken Rice at Boon Tong Kee.  The chicken rice here ranks high on the best chart.  We ordered the steamed and the roast chicken and were not disappointed, the meat was tender and flavorful, the rice fragrant.  Many tend to think though that BTK is over-priced and maybe it is.  The chicken, although not disappointing, leaves no lasting impression, sad to say.

To be in Singapore with kids and not go to Sentosa is a crime – at least to my 6-year old nephew.  Not too large a place with an array of interesting marine life, Underwater World achieved to fascinate even (a kid at heart like) me.

I sat through the dolphin show with a cup of Cherry Garcia’s at an air-conditioned café overlooking stage/pool. We stumbled on it when we went to get ourselves some Ben & Jerry’s and found out that we could stay and watch the show comfortably for a reasonable consumable fee.

A great deal, if you ask me.  My nephews were equally as happy with their own ice cream cups in their little corner with a great vantage point.

The reason I love food so much is because I grew up in a family that enjoys good food.  More often than not, trips with my parents always involved food, so I say this weekend Singapore fling was a hit despite some lows.

Weekend fireworks at the Marina Bay Sands

Overall, we celebrated my dad’s birthday literally with a bang.

“Why Taiwan?”

Most would ask when I tell them a trip to our northern neighbor was brewing.  “Why not?”  Truth is, Taiwan was never really on my radar until Fun Taiwan, a travel show featuring fun things to do in… you guess it… Taiwan.  So yeah, these shows can entice.   As an aside… can someone please produce a more quality shows about the Philippines?

Taiwan, I discovered, has marvelous natural landscapes and that is why we found ourselves one day

walking around Yong Kang Street, absorbing the sights and smells of this interesting, trendy street

where snack stands of all kinds, coffee shops, restaurants, boutiques

and even a park share space and voice.

The best Xiao Long Bao — in my opinion.  On the right a new dish: Shrimp and Pork Pot sticker.

It is also where the first Din Tai Fung outlet is still found and to this day, lines are long so being there early is wise.   (We had an early dinner there on our last night in Taipei so we would not have to wait for a table — more on why this is a top choice here).

Dandy Hotel — uses simple lines, white walls and bleached furnitures giving an uncluttered feel to a small space.

Just a short walk from our trendy boutique hotel at the Da’an district, we set out to Yong Kang for some happy hour and dinner after.  After a full day, we deserved it to unwind and to finally savor our first day in Taiwan.

Taken from Baskin and Robbins on the 2nd floor of the station where an array of restaurants and shops are found.

At the Taipei Train Station earlier that day, we got by with the simple mandarin tucked away in my brain somewhere and managed to buy train tickets for our journey east the following day.  We decided to explore the station first to find our way around before tomorrow’s journey.  It’s a huge station, getting lost or worst, getting on the wrong platform or train is a possibility… especially since many still speak very little English.  So our game plan was to always be one step ahead.

With that out of the way, we headed to the second floor and devoured our first meal in Taipei – Beef Noodle Soup at the food court.

A glimpse of what was to come (food-wise) in the next few days… actually in the next few hours.

Wonderful staff helping us find our way around.  That’s our map that they were trying to figure out for us.

Walking around Yong Kang, we entered a bar thirsty for some cold beer.  We made friends with the servers while downing our Asahi and a side dish of shiitake mushrooms.

About an hour later, we walked the street again looking for a place to dine.  When it started to pour, we entered the first restaurant we fancied.  In a small alley off Yong Kang Street is Sit-Fun. The photos at the entrance and the glassed-in kitchen screamed, “Come in!”

Clockwise: a succulent Pork braised in Brown Sugar; tender, crispy Fried Squid with Garlic; a very tasty Fried Oyster with Soy Sauce; interior.

Our default restaurant turned out a winner of a choice.  By no time, the place was full and all the food we ordered were excellent.

Famous not only in Yong Kang but also all over Taipei is this shaved iced dessert (like Ice Monster) and the sweet tooth in me just couldn’t resist.

Before calling it a night, we stopped by Smoothie House and I convinced A to share this huge bowl of shaved ice filled with strawberries, condensed milk and topped Panna cotta with me.

So what say you?  I say a perfect end to a long fruitful day.   🙂

Useful Info:

Dandy Hotel
No. 33 Sec. 3, Xinyi Rd., Da’an District
Taipei City 106
Tel: +886-2-2707-6899
Fax: +886-2-2706-5777
 
Sit-Fun Shih Tang
5, Lane 8, Yong Kang Street 
Tel: +886-2-2322-2632
 
Din Tai Fung
194 Sec 2, Xinyi Rd., Da’an District

Around Donsol

Credits:  “Natural Beauty” quickpage created by Maria LaFrance

After a morning of whale shark adventure, what next?  Just a short banca ride across the San Bernardino Straits, many dive shops offer trips to Manta Bowl in Ticao Island.  We however didn’t have time so I made a mental note to plan for some serious diving there next season.

Fireflies

Instead, we headed out to the Donsol River in the hopes to see fireflies illuminating in the dark.  I was envisioning dramatic strips of trees lit with fireflies like Christmas trees radiating the evening.  Alas, save for the beautiful sunset on our ride to the site, the fireflies were a let down.

We saw a total of 2, perhaps 3 trees with some fireflies glowing but not enough to even show on cam.  It didn’t help, per our guide, that it was a full moon.

Baracuda Seafood and Cocktails

Clockwise:  Home-made Pesto; tuna sashimi; succulent grilled prawns; A very fresh fried lapu-lapu.

Baracuda (with 1 “r”) serves excellent food that’s worth a mention.  After our sorry firefly tour, invited and recommended by the Israeli couple we shared the banca with, the four of us set out for Barracuda bar for some really good eats.  The resto-bar has a very friendly atmosphere headed by the owner herself, Juliet de la Cruz.  She goes around tables talking and offering shots of rum to diners.

Where to Stay

We wanted to stay at Elysia Beach Resort but they didn’t have a room so we settled for the comfortable albeit spartan Dancalan Resort.

Dancalan Beach Resort

With truly enjoyable breakfast of pancakes, bacon and coffee.

As we were walking around town, we passed Elysia resort and decided to check it out.

A simple but tastefully designed resort with rooms built around a pool.

The food may not be as good as that of the Barracuda or Dancalan (breakfast was good), it was pretty decent.

Since the main activity here takes just half a day, splurging a bit to lounge around the beautiful and relaxing grounds of Elysia makes pretty good sense to me.  I’ve made another mental note to book earlier next time I come back, most likely for those Mantas.

Useful info:

Baracuda Seafood and Cocktails
Contact: Juliet de la Paz
Mobile: +63926-640-0863
 
Dancalan Beach Resort
Email:  Donsol_dancalanbeachresort@yahoo.com
Contact No:  +63905-218-2973
 
Elysia Beach Resort
Email: elysia@live.co.kr
Contact Nos: +63917-547-4466 / +63927-348-2340 / +63926-475-9762
 

A Beautiful Day in Legaspi

Credits:  Paper by Nadi Designs AoD_bloghop (dark green); Elements — PWD Christmas Treasures (staples); SDynes Christmas Elements (bracket); ScrapMatters Life Little Surprises kit – border By Becca.

As I got off the plane, I look up and there it was – a central feature reaching 2,460 meters above the Albay gulf.  Mayon Volcano stands majestic with its perfect cone forming a magnificent backdrop against an otherwise ordinary small town airport.

Mayon hiding behind the clouds.

A very active volcano with its most recent eruption occurring in 2001 while its most violent in 1814 killing around 2,000 residents and devastating several towns.

If not for Mayon Volcano, Legaspi is an ordinary city riddled with tricycles.  The capital of Albay was our gateway to Donsol, the main purpose of this trip.  The cab we hired to take us to whaleshark territory suggested that we take advantage of the clear sky affording a spectacular image of an almost perfect cone.

We headed out to Daraga Church right after breakfast for an unobstructed view of the volcano.  It sits atop a hill overlooking the sea and the majestic Mayon.

Declared by the National Historic Institute a “National Cultural Treasure”, the 18th century baroque church was built in 1773.  Mayon’s destructive eruption on Feb 1814 devastated Cagsawa and 4 more towns and survivors chose to move to Daraga the following year.   So the folklore indicating that the church was built to replace the ill-fated church of Cagsawa is inaccurate.

The remnants of the Cagsawa Church, of which the belfry still stands today, is a testimony of mother nature’s wrath and reminds of the dangers of living close to Mayon.

Huge volcanic boulders left around the perimeter.

Also affording an unhampered view of the volcano, the ruins is the most photographed spot in all of Albay.

Although clouds have covered half of Mayon by now, it remains picturesque just the same.

When in Legaspi, make sure to drop by Camalig and have a feast of their Pinangat.  Along the highway is an eatery called Let’s Pinangat.  Before heading to Donsol, Art, our cab driver parked the cab and announced that we are to have lunch here.

Of course we ordered Pinangat but Art highly recommended Inolukan, a variation of the pinangat, which is pure layers of gabi (taro) leaves cooked in coconut milk.

Inolukan, on the other hand has extracts of small crabs (talangka) filled inside the leaves.  Both I find excellent with a slight preference over the latter.

We had, I dare say, a good start to a weekend of adventure.  ‘Twas a beautiful day indeed.

Useful Info:

If you need a ride to around Albay, call Art of Early Riser.  He can double as a guide as well.
Contact No (Art):  +63906-909-6719 / +63932-156-0246
Early Riser:  +6352-480-8294 / +6352-435-0950 / +63922-866-8456

Kiangan Side Trip

More like a scrumptious lunch break from the 7+ hours drive from Manila.

It was an eagerly anticipated side trip, a delectable meal guaranteed.

Taken from the 2nd floor:  Left photo — where Dr. Kalugdan entertains while Dra. Kalugdan happily slaves away in her territory that is the kitchen (right photo).

The Kalugdans are perfect hosts.  Their charming house, which they designed themselves, overlooks a fantastic view of the Ibulao River.

We went rafting there once and that was how we got to know them.  Lovely couple.

Kiangan of course is more than rafting and scrumptious meals.  It is also where Nagacadan Rice Terraces, one of the clusters inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list, is located.  I have yet to explore this historic town and first on the list is the Philippine War Memorial Shrine – a gigantic memorial shrine commemorating the end of WWII.  It was in Mt. Napuluwan in Kiangan where Gen. Yamashita surrendered so it might be worthwhile to check out the site as well.

Historic town and rice terraces aside, the town boasts of many natural wonders as well.  Ambuwaya Lake is one.  4 km from the town center and is said to be reachable by 4W drive vehicles.  Uttu waterfalls is likewise on my list of must see.   Someday, Kiangan will not be a side trip only.

Hong Kong: A Mini Dining Escapade

Hong Kong used to mean one thing to me in the past – shopping.  Not anymore.  Today, Hong Kong signifies food – delightful, glorious food.

Credits:  Papers by Nadi Designs, Art of Digital Design and Prairie Woman Design.  Flower by Moninda; Word art by Wimpy Chompers; Alpha by Denise Beatty Originals

Welcome to the culinary capital of Asia.  In this relatively small island, foodies can revel not only in an assortment of Chinese regional delicacies but also in a range of international cuisine – from food stalls to Michelin starred restaurants.  This has been the highlight of a very short trip to Hong Kong early this year.  By the end of this month, I will be back to sample more gastronomic delights so Hong Kong here I come… again.  But before that, allow me to reminisce a bit on that mini dining escapade.

I will begin with the customary dim sum.  How can you be in Hong Kong and not indulge in supposedly “the best dim sum in the world”?

Zen Chinese Cuisine

A long-standing casual Chinese Restaurant in Pacific Place.  Apart from serving a range of Cantonese specialties, they also serve an extensive and intricate range of dim sum for lunch.   Be warned though, they usually have a long line especially during lunchtime so be there early.

Hutong

Located on the 28th floor of One Peking in Tsim Sha Tsui.  This stunning restaurant with a fantastic view of the HK harbor serves authentic Northern Chinese cuisine with a contemporary twist.

Red lanterns, hanging birdcages, intricately carved wood panels, Chinese silk curtains — all add charm to the dark, muted interior giving off a traditional Chinese feel.

Clockwise:  “Red Lantern” Crispy chicken w/ Sichuan red chili; Lobsters fried w/ red pepper & sweet chili sauce; Cod fillet tossed with fermented bean & chilis; Chili-spiced bamboo clams

A must-try are their Chili-spiced bamboo clams steeped in Chinese rose wine & chili sauce, Cod fillet tossed with crispy fermented bean & chili, lobsters fried with red pepper & sweet chili sauce, “Red Lantern” Crispy chicken with Sichuan red chili and last but not the least (not in photo) is their Crispy de-boned lam ribs.

Yung Kee Restaurant

My absolute favorite restaurant in Hong Kong and I will almost always pay a visit when I’m in town.

More than Hong Kong’s dimsum, I must have a piece of that lovingly roasted goose.   Juicy, tender, rich meat with skin so crispy… To. Die. For.

Another house specialty that I take home with me is their century eggs oozing with sticky yolk.  Paired with pickled ginger… wicked!

Kee Wah Bakery

Right beside Yung Kee is a bakery called Kee Wah for some beautifully packed Chinese traditional pastries.  Beautiful packaging aside, their egg rolls and pineapple shortcakes are great pasalubongs (gifts) to take home.

Useful Info:

Zen Chinese Cuisine
One Pacific Place Mall
88 Queensway, HK
+852 2845-4555 / 2845-4377
Hutong
28th Floor, One Peking Road,
Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
+852 3428-8342
Yung Kee Restaurant
32-40 Wellington Street
Central, HK
(5 minutes walk from MTR Central station , exit D2)