East of Kyoto: Of Geishas and Wagyu

Their world a mystery to me, my fascination with Geishas is one reason I am walking the streets of Gion.

Gion-Kaikan

To catch a Gion Odori  (a geisha dance performance) at the Gion Kaikan Theater was high on my list of priorities but the timing was off.  So the next best thing is to take the streets where they frequent.

Filled with shops, restaurants and ochoyas (teahouses), Gion is Kyoto’s most celebrated geisha district, Hanami-koji being the most popular.

hanamikoji

The street and side alleys are lined with beautifully preserved traditional wooden townhouses called machiyo.  Many of which have become expensive restaurants, serving Kyoto-style kaiseki ryori (Japanese haute cuisine), some even extend to dance performances by real maiko dancers.

The number of geishas has significantly declined in the last one hundred years and to catch a glimpse, of either a geisha, or a maiko is scarce today.   But despite the dwindling lot, the present “women of art” still practice her skill with the same diligence  as those before her.

More than my fascination with geishas, my obsession with food brought me to Gion.  The best way to get acquainted with the places I visit (in my opinion) is to immerse in the local cuisine.  Japanese food is no exception even if it is arguably among the top in the international cuisine scene these days.  In fact, as I ventured into its different cuisine, I went home with a deeper appreciation and understanding of its food.

shinbanshi-st

The cobbled-stoned Shinbanshi St. is a traditional building preservation area in Gion Shinbanshi.

Shirakawa-canal

The street runs along the Shirakawa canal lined with willow trees, making it one beautiful, scenic stroll.

Shinbanshi

On top of that, it is a restaurant row, most of which overlooks the canal.  We walked the strip of high-end restaurants and teahouses partly in search for a place to dine that evening.

Kamo-River

Pontocho-restos-overlooking-KamoPontocho restaurants overlooking the river transform into a spectacular view at night.

Across the Kamogawa river is Pontocho, said to be home to many geisha houses and traditional teahouses.

pontocho-alley-daytime

The alley that runs parallel to the Kamo River, once a leading geisha district, is also one of Kyoto’s most atmospheric dining areas.  It is packed with a range of dining options, including affordable Yakitori, traditional Kyoto cuisines and private establishments.

Kyoshikian-interior

In this small alleyway, we found Kyoshikian – a well-appointed teppanyaki-style restaurant that had us at Wagyu.

wagyu-dinner

So relieved that we opted to share, as I could only take so much of the beef sirloin due to its intense marbling.

sides

A side of grilled vegetables and seared tuna was perfect to tone down the richness.

pontocho-alley-at-night

Walking back to Shoji-dori, Gion’s main street, after a truly filling dinner, a woman totally made up and in full kimono regalia walked pass me.

shoji-dori-at-nightShoji-dori at night

“There’s a geisha”, I whispered to my friends.  “She could also be a maiko”, one whispered back.

Useful Info:

Gion Kaikan Theater
Address: 323 Gionmachi Kitagawa, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto 
Tel: +81 75 561 0160
Transport: Gion Shijo Station
 
Kyoshikian
Address: 227 Nabeyamachi, Pontocho Shijo-dori Agaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 
Schedules:  click here

East of Kyoto: Shrines, Temples and Garden

Lunch was very satisfying…  and the rain abated after all.  So walk some more we did.

chion-in-entrance-from-street

Chion-in Temple was not easy to find.  The map was confusing.  We walked back and forth several times between the Yasaka Shrine and the Maruyama Park.  It was tiring, walking back and forth looking for the right turn, but the scenery was a sight to behold so I didn’t mind so much.

murayama-trees

Once you find the temple, it isn’t difficult at all, we realized.   We just had to trust our instincts more.

Yasaka-jinja Shrine is a colorful downtown shrine that stands at the end of a main street, Shijodori St.  Long connected with the Kyoto Geisha community centered in the nearby Gion District, the shrine dates back to the 9th century, when it aimed to stop the run of epidemic and other disasters that were afflicting the Kyoto residence at that time.

yasaka-shrine

Many visit the shrine today to pray for good fortune.  The shrine was quiet on our visit with only a few visitors praying.  Come early July, the shrine will be full of visitors as it plays host to the Gion Matsui Festival, a festival to drive away evil spirit.

murayama-pond

Right behind Yasaka Shrine is Maruyama Koen Park.  Best known for its many weeping cherry blossom tree or shidarezakura.

murayama-entrance

It may attract thousands of people for the hanami or the cherry blossom viewing parties in spring, but in autumn, the warm hues of fall can be quite enchanting.

Now this was where we didn’t make the turn.  We should have turned left at the corner where the “tallest” shidarezakura stands, instead we went straight and found ourselves on a road leading to a trail up a hill.

chion-in-steps

Close to the northeast corner of Maruyama is Chion-in Temple, which now serves as the headquarters of the Jodo (Pure Land) sect of Buddhism.

chion-in-entrance

A huge and very popular temple, its colossal front gate is the largest of its kind in Japan, delivering a vision of grandeur.

chion-in-renov

Unfortunately, the main temple is under major maintenance and will not be ready for viewing till 2019.   Yeah…  all the effort for this 🙂

chion-in-looking-out

Useful Info:

Yasaka-jinja Shrine
625 Kitagawa,
Gion-machi, Higashiyama-ku
075-651-6155
*8 minutes walk from Gion-Shijo on Keihan line
 
Maruyama Koen Park
473 Maruyama-cho, Higashiyama-ku
075-222-3586
*5 minutes walk from Gion-Shijo on Keihan line
 
Chion-in Temple
400 Rinko0cho, Higashiyama-ku
075-531-2111
*Take bus 206 and get off at the Chion-in Mae stop.  20 minutes walk to temple
 

East of Kyoto: Southern Higashiyama Neighborhood Walk

higashiyamaCredits: Papers by Designs by Tater from ScrapMatter’s Life’s Little Surprises Kit.

The guesthouse took sometime to find.  Tucked away in a street where cars aren’t allowed.  The driver of our shuttle service eventually found it; he led us into a narrow residential street.

garden-at-entrance

The house is charming, even at night.  A young man let us in, cheerfully welcoming us at 10 in the evening.  The real owners of Yamato Guesthouse are his parents, Kenzo and Nagako.

kenzo-and-Nagako

He was there for the weekend, I figured.  I noticed a group was enjoying some drinks at a corner so I asked if they served dinner — we were hungry, arriving straight from Kansai International Airport.  Of course, they only serve breakfast but they accommodated our request and prepared something simple after seeing our hungry faces.  The other group, it turned out, are friends visiting hence the beer and the snacks – I felt a bit embarrassed about our dinner request.   😯   Such is the hospitality of the Japanese and of our host.

breakfast

Nagako served quite an exquisite breakfast and for 2 days I felt very pampered

The former capital of Japan is famous for its temples and shrines, a beautiful city with tradition and culture filled to the brim.  Kyoto is one of the oldest cities and there is so much to see.  Even just zooming in on an area – the east side – we still barely scratched the surface.  Two whole days is obviously not enough but that was all we had.  We were merely passing through and we made the most of it.

Yamato, I estimate, is a good 10 minutes stroll away from Kiyomizu Temple — actually, it could be 20 if you window shop and ogle at everything interesting along the way.

store-chawanzaka

The neighborhood consists of many interesting stores, delightful cafe and food stalls, which actually make for a pleasant stroll to the temple.

chawanzaka

The street of our guesthouse comes out to Chawan-zaka, it actually leads to the temple but we chose instead to turn into a complex that has several flights of stairs,

asahizaka-mapA map of Asahizaka complex

asahizaka-steps

stores and cafes line the way leading to Kiyomizu-zaka, where we chanced on more stores and tourists.

kiyomizuzaka-from-templeKiyomizu-zaka from the temple

If you turn right, you will end up in Kiyomizu Temple.

kiyomizudera

Inside the temple, the tourists escalated in unbelievable proportion.

tourists

Half way through the temple, we gave up and settled for a much-needed coffee break and cream puffs.

Yatsuhashi-cream-puff

Kiyomizu-dera is perhaps the most beloved of Kyoto’s temples.

kiyomizu-temple-entrance

It is a famous hilltop temple offering sweeping views of the old capital.

view-of-the-city-from-kiyomizudera

Popular with tourist and pilgrims, the temple is part of the Historic Monument of Ancient Kyoto and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The narrow cobbled street of Kiyomizu-zaka (if you walk away from the temple) will lead to Sannen-zaka and Ninen-zaka, a restored neighborhood oozing with old world charm.

Ninenzaka-and-shannenzaka

Both streets are lined with old wooden houses, traditional shops and restaurants.  It is  a good example of the old Kyoto, the Kyoto everyone imagines.  Despite the drizzle, it was a wonderful walk, quite uplifting I must say.

Following the route suggested by Lonely Planet, we found the street the guidebook described as “the most beautiful street in Kyoto”, Ishibei-koji.  It is a quiet alley lined with high-end restaurants and ryokans.  I saw a photographer taking shots of the street at the end of the stone-paved road.  I went to where he stood and this was what came out.

Ishibei-koji

Have to admit that this quiet street has character with its own stories to tell perhaps but to be identified as “the most” beautiful street puts too much pressure don’t you think?  Beauty is indeed in the eyes of the beholder.  Developed primarily as an area for luxurious rental homes, it is presently a favorite site to shoot TV dramas, movies and TV commercials.

At this point, it was already more than drizzling and it didn’t look like it would let up.  We decided it was time for lunch.

Useful Info:

Guest House Yamato
6-539-23 Gojohashihigashi,
Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture
Kiyomizu Temple
1-294 Kiyomizu
Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture

East Africa

East-Africa-2

It actually stretches from the northern arid deserts of Ethiopia to the tropical forests of Mozambique and Madagascar, with 19 countries in between.  While my East African adventure in 2006 only spanned 3 countries, the experience it yielded were quite diverse – from the usual Safari adventures to tracking Chimpanzees to the more extreme, whitewater rafting.  Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda, territories that were formerly under British control and each hold common thread yet bear its own unique character.

Highlights:

rhino-and-zebra

Catching sight of the Big Five – Lions, African Elephants, Cape Buffalos, Leopards, and Rhinoceroses.

giraffe

The Big Five aside, Zebras along with giraffes have become favorites.

Witnessing not quite the migration but the start of it.  From July to October, one could witness the great migration where wildebeest and zebra travel to and from the Serengeti National Park to the greener pastures of the Masai Mara National Reserves.

masai-mara

It is perhaps the most breathtaking event in animal kingdom and the whole point of our visit to this continent.  To see them gather together, sometimes in a line is more than thrilling.

flamingos

Witnessing a gathering of Flamingos.  Absolutely a sight to behold, this sea of pink covering a large part of Lake Nakuru.  One of the Rift Valley soda lakes that attract vast quantity of flamingos that feed on the lake’s abundant algae.

Being in beautiful Ngorongoro Crater.  It is the world’s largest intact unflooded volcanic caldera and is home to over 300,000 animals including the rare Black Rhinos.

ngorongoro

An absolutely beautiful place to be on a safari, the crater makes for a stunning backdrop to rich grazing grounds.

zanzibar4

Chilling in Zanzibar.  A semi-autonomous island separated from the Tanzanian mainland.

zanzibar3

Although just a short distance from the Tanzanian coast, it is at the crossroad of Africa, the Middle East and Asia resulting in a culture of diverse ethnicities, more Middle Eastern in its feel than African.  Likewise with local dishes, the rich fragrance of cinnamon, ginger, cumin, pepper and cardamom is synonymous with Zanzibar, also known as the Spice Island.  The streets of Stone’s Town – the capital’s old quarter – is full of the bustle of back street markets and local flavor.

zanzibar2

The charm lies in its labyrinth alleyways and faded buildings redolent of the glories of the old Islāmic empire.

7th-Jul-06-(73)

Rafting the White Nile.  Stretching 31km from just below the Bujugali Falls in Jinja, experiencing the Nile at its source is by far the best heart-pounding whitewater ride of my life.

Getting lost in Uganda.  On a wrong bus, we went the other way and ended up not quite where we wanted to be.

bus-stop-scene-in-Uganda

Best known for Idi Amin or Joseph Koney, getting lost could be frightening but this mishap gave us a taste of the local flare and the kindness of its people.  We eventually found our way but not without the help of the people we didn’t know from Adam.  An impression indelibly marked in my heart.

It is by far one of the best trip I’ve had – a wonderful surprise, considering that it was not even on the priority.  I will be back Africa, sooner than you know.

The Way to Initiate the Novice

trekking-to-lighthouse

I’m with some novice trekkers, not that I mind, it is an easy trek after all.  I am thrilled, in fact, to have them experience the joy of summiting after an uphill struggle that seemed never-ending and pointless, and to realize, after all that trouble, that the reward is usually at the peak.

Named the 3rd best beach and island of the Philippines by CNN Go April of last year and just like that, Palaui caught my attention.  I’ve been going back and forth to Sta. Ana for a few years now, but Palaui was never on my radar.

rough-sea

Maybe because it takes more work to get there and that includes braving the (sometimes) treacherous sea.

approaching-palaui

A protected area, the island lies between the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean.  It boasts of a nice long stretch of white pebble beach, abundant marine life, a century old lighthouse, a waterfalls hidden somewhere and a scenic rugged terrain.  It is pretty much uninhabited, with only a small community living in the island.  No electricity and accommodation to speak of.

jump-off

So one fine day, along with the same people I spent several Sta. Ana weekends together, we took off from the shores of Sun City in San Vicente and headed to Palaui.  An hour, perhaps more on the boat and we arrived on the island.

Palaui-beach-front

We paid for a guide and started our trek on the beach,

forest

which lead to a short forest walk before we emerged on the other side to beautiful rolling hills reminiscent of Batanes.

like-batanes

steps-to-lighthouse

We then climbed (more than) some steps that would eventually lead to the summit where Cape Engaño stands.

closer-glimpse-of-lighthouse

cape-engano

The view along the way took my breath away.

beach-from-the-top

It may not be the best beach as it is not fine sand as that of Boracay or even Palawan

beach

but the island dazzles at every turn,

dos-hermanas

glimpse-of-the-beach-on-the-way

from the beach to the top of the lighthouse… all I can say was SPECTACULAR.  And the new recruits were enjoying themselves too.

half-way-to-lighthouse

Not that difficult to get to, we took the Lugunzad trail, which took all of just 30 minutes from beach to lighthouse.

P6300834

There is a waterfall somewhere, said our guide, but all this walking made the others hungry.  And so the initiation is over, we will take baby steps and insist on the waterfalls some other time.

gotan-beach

At a beach named Gotan, lunch was already being prepared.   A private beach, we had to arrange to use a few days earlier.  We had a sumptuous meal of everything grilled.

agoho-in-gotan

There, we lounged around, enjoyed each other’s company amidst beautiful Agoho trees.   That’s how to initiate novice trekkers.  Yes?

Best of 2012

Forgive the silence… would you believe that I ushered in the New Year with colds and fever?  But that didn’t stop me from having friends over for the count down. No.  I hope you all had a wonderful holiday.

This-is-forever

Credits:  Quickpage from JSprague’s 4ever kit, created by Brenda Neuberger

2012 has been good to me.  Even with much less travels this year, I’ve managed a few unforgettable firsts.  Here they are; some I have not even posted but will pre-empt:

1.  The Bus Ride to Vang Vieng

bus-to-VV

A 4-hour bus ride from Vientaine on a sleeper bus made for petite Laotians.  Worst was the bunks were meant for (yes) 2 petite Laotians.  We’re definitely far from petite.  So imagine the trip.

2.  First time on a Hot Air Balloon

vang-vieng

Soaring high in Vang Vieng, watching the town wake up.  You get the best view in town, if you ask me.

3.  The Boat Ride to Y’ami

boat-ride-to-Y'ami

An idea that came to fruition had us journeying to the northernmost island of the Philippines on a grueling 3-hour boat ride off Itbayat Island in Batanes.  Why?  I ask the same question many times over.  An experience hard to topple.

4.  A Night in Siayan

siayan

We had to break the grueling boat ride and stay overnight in an island about 1 hour away from Itbayat (the farthest inhabited island of Batanes) because the waters along the Bashi Channel can be treacherous particularly in the late afternoon.  Getting to the island, beautiful as it is, is an adventure in its self.

5.  Hiking Up to Cape Engaño

Palaui-view

Beautiful sight, up there.  That’s all I will say for now.  Watch out for my post – coming soon.

6.  Enjoying an Onsen Bath

hirayu-onsen

While it snowed too.  A totally exhilarating and liberating experience, I dipped in those pools two nights in a row.  Awesomeness.

As for 2013, I’ve got some exciting plans already in the pipeline. I’ve been working hard to get that to fruition over the holidays, truth to tell.  It is going to be an exciting year.  I feel it in the air.  How is your 2013 looking so far?

Rest of Batan: Mahatao

When I think of Mahatao, this simple church is the first thing that comes to mind – not the lighthouse,

Photo taken in 2006.

and certainly not the boat shelter,

An island detached from the main island provides shelter for inter-island vessels.

both constructed sometime around the mid-2000 only.  The church, however, has been a fixture in this old sleepy town since the days of yore and every time I am in Batanes, I get to visit it.

It is, after all, the biggest structure in Mahatao.

San Carlos Borromeo Church is one of the oldest existing church in Northern Luzon that still keep its centuries old features making it a National Cultural Heritage Treasure.

Also part of Mahatao is the Chanarian View Deck.

Another personal favorite, it has breathtaking views of Batan and the rugged cliffs.

Concrete stairs lead down the cliff if one cares to explore the water below.  I prefer the view from the road.

Last May while enjoying the view, I chatted with our guide Mang Rudy about life in Manila.  Life in the capital, as he describe it, is hard enough as a single, sometimes holding 2 jobs just to make ends meet.  When he got married, he knew that it would be difficult to raise a family if he stayed.  So they went back and now that they are settled and has called Batanes home once more, he is happy.  A guide before he left, he picked up where he left off citing that the influx of tourism provides a steadier income.  He is also enjoying the support he gets from his family, friends and neighbors, bayanihan still very much a part of their culture.  Their geographical isolation has a lot to do with this spirit.  He is proud to be an Ivatan, and I can feel his passion.  As a guide he aims to promote his homeland because it is indeed a place so unique and beautiful to be in.

Thor and Anton, taken in 2006 in Diura Fishing Village.  A small village facing the Pacific Ocean and where fishermen perform a ritual to signify the start of another season of fishing.

In 2006, a guy who is not from Batanes, nor is he Filipino brought us around.  Thor, a volunteer is American.  It amused me that a foreigner was showing us around the island, our very own country.   He was then helping the Tourism Office in various projects, one of which is training guides.  I never got to ask Mang Rudy if Thor ever trained him but regardless, I think he will make Thor proud.

And this ends my series on Batanes.  Want a summary of where and what to eat in Batanes?  Check out Batanes Eats at Storm In My Kitchen for some of the island’s gastronomic delights.

Rest of Batan: Ivana

Credits: Template by Jen Caputo; Papers by Scrapmatters by Becca

At the Honesty Coffee Shop, we waited for the boat that plies the Batan-Sabtang route from the port off Ivana.

It was late.  The waves were strong, delaying its arrival and so its departure.  We spent the entire morning waiting to leave for Sabtang.  Having hitched a ride from Basco, we can’t go too far so we stayed put exploring the church across.  We eventually left for Sabtang after lunch.  That was 6 years ago.

San Jose Church in Ivana looks more like a castle to me because of the crenellated walls of the bell tower.

Well preserved, the church is photogenic inside and out.

Today, the church is just as pretty though the recently built port is an eyesore.

Shot in 2006 while waiting to leave for Sabtang.

What used to be a beautiful view of Sabtang and the sea is now partly blocked by the port.

She is perhaps the most visited and the most photographed woman in the island.  Floresitida Estrella, fondly known as Lola Ida, lives in a house known as the House of Dakay – one of the oldest stone house in the island.

Me at the House of Dakay sans Lola Ida.  She was probably not around hence the solo shot.

An earthquake in 1918 earthquake hit the island and leveled most of the town to the ground, this house survived.  We did not visit her this time.

Instead, we headed to Vatang Grill and Restaurant for lunch.

Just along the main road, close to the shore.

Six years ago while waiting for the boat, we had sweet Filipino-style spaghetti for lunch in a small and perhaps the only eatery in Ivana then.

Finally, a good restaurant serving rather good local Ivatan cuisine in this side of the island.

Rest of Batan: Imnajbu Point

I have taken a photo of this same spot every time I come to Batanes.

Taken in 2006

It is, after all, one of my favorite spot in Batanes because of how the road cuts through the low-lying hill leaving a rugged sculpture by the roadside. I also love the reveal at the turn – beautiful seascape,  winding road, rugged hillside.

It always makes me sigh with wonder and amazement.  Am I being over the top? Probably, but this remains to be a favorite spot in my books.

This is Imnajbu Point; some call it the Alapad Pass.  Imnajbu is one of the 2 major settlements of the municipality of Uyugan along the Pacific seaboard.  The other one is Itbud.

The land is varied and has rocky hills along the coastline that faces the Pacific

and the interior boasts of grassy hills.

Both settlements is said to have the most intact of stone houses in Batanes.

On our way from Mahatao, we met some bump on the road – landslide from heavy rains in the morning, perhaps even from the night before.  It didn’t take long to clear up, just long enough to take photos of the old Loran Station and my favorite spot.

Close to the Alapad pass is Loran Station – a navigation station built by the Americans in the 50s – can be seen from this road.  As satellite communications made Loran System redundant, the Americans left in the 70s.  In its heyday, locals call it “Little America”.

Rest of Batan: Rakuh A Payaman

Where wild cattle and carabaos (water buffalos) roam in endless rolling hills – a communal pastureland offering picturesque scenes of farm fields and the Pacific Ocean.

There is also the Mahatao lighthouse and Mt. Iraya in the distance, adding to the already breathtaking view.

Rakuh A Payaman translates to “big pastureland” and as with the rolling hills of Vayang, one becomes just a speck in the midst of the sweeping landscape, the vastness unimaginable.

While horses are a rare sight these days, tourists know it more as Marlboro Country, perhaps resembling the backdrop of a long running cigarette campaign,