Beijing : The Old Meets New

If the last time you were in Beijing was 15 years ago,

you’d also be surprised at how they have managed to preserve its ancient past even while it transforms into a modern metropolis.

Walking along Wangfujing Avenue, I notice a smattering of bicycles reminiscent of the Beijing I last saw, still pedaling down the streets but is more and more being replaced by cars and buses.

Modern buildings and malls line the streets of Beijing along side stunning ancient eastern architectures. The capital of China with 3,000 years of history is today a dynamic city where the old and new intermingles and is a magnet for local and foreign visitors. It remains the People’s Republic of China’s center of politics, culture and economics.

Great Wall

Great Wall – Juyongguan Pass

A visit to Beijing will never be complete without the imperative call to the Great Wall.  It was the reason for this trip putting aside the good eats, that is.  My nephew wanted to see the Great Wall, after taking it up in school and thus a family vacation was mounted.

Packed with tourists

So to Juyongguan Pass (also called Juyong Pass) we went one morning.  It is the nearest section of the Great Wall to Beijing, a little nearer than Badaling, the most popular section of the Great Wall.

Juyong Pass does not however escape the same glut of souvenir shops and a number of other tourist traps that Badaling has.  But if convenience, keeping transportation simple and time management is of importance, both these passes are the best places to get a feel of the walls’ more than 2,000 years history.  In fact, as early as the 13th century, the area of Juyong Pass was known for its beauty and was listed as one of the eight “great sights of Yanjing”.

Aside from its easy access, its steps starts off from the same level as the parking lot so there is no need to climb or take a cable car to reach the wall.

It however rises steeply on both sides of the gate

The view from mid-way to the 1st watchtower

Our goal that never was.

– a reason why we never even reached the first watchtower.

Once a strategic military garrison, this 20 kilometer-long valley,

stretching along the ridge of incredibly steep mountains was considered important in the defense of Beijing in the ancient China.  These mountains that flanks the valley can definitely be credited for the beauty of the pass.

If you are looking to see authentic “Ming Dynasty” walls though, this is not the place to be as a short expanse of the wall has been recently restored.  Simitai might be a better option since it is virtually unreconstructed and is listed as a UNESCO’s World Heritage Site.

More of Beijing in my next posts.   🙂

Scenic Sunday

Posted on by Jenn 12

PB&J and Oatmeal

So I love oatmeal.  I didn’t always but learned to love it when I discovered this and this (available at Healthy Options).  Unlike the oatmeal my mom forced on me every single school day of my elementary years, these provided some texture that took my fancy when I first tried it.  I’ve acquired the taste for oats since my recent illness.   It’s supposed to be good for me.   😉

Also available at Healthy Options

Sweetened with some kind of sweetener – honey, muscovado or a recent discovery, agave syrup and a sprinkling of some dried fruit, that’s how I normally like my oatmeal.

I recently uncovered though a liking for peanut butter and jelly to go with it. Guava is a favorite but I so happened to have an opened bottle of tomato jam – it worked for me too!  Don’t judge until you’ve tried it.  It can be very addicting!  Umm, that is if you love PB&J as much as I do.  Aside from the sweet-savory taste, the PB adds a certain richness to the oatmeal while the J takes care of sweetening it in a special kind of way.  I would add more liquid than usual so not to end up with oatmeal that is too thick when mixed with the peanut butter.

So go ahead, give it a try – this might just end up becoming a favorite too.   🙂

Posted on by Jenn 3

The Binondo “Wok”ing Tour

Possibly, no definitely the best way to see Manila “on foot” as their leaflet suggests and I completely agree.  It’s literally experiencing Binondo or Chinatown one bite at a time.

I am of Chinese descent but I don’t really know my way around Chinatown.  My parents would occasionally take us there for lunch or dinner when we were growing up but really, I am clueless as to their whereabouts.

An “old-time” favorite of the family

Binondo is like a maze, although the street names are all very familiar, I have no sense of where they are in relation to each other.  Leave me there and I am helpless.

I grew up with home cooked Chinese food.  Not the stuff that you eat in “Cantonese-style” Chinese restaurants in the metro, but simple home cooked meals that really is more everyday stuff to me than “Chinese”.

So taking this tour was somewhat nostalgic and enlightening.  We journeyed through old and new adventures.  There were food that I grew up with and there are those I encountered for the first time.  The places we walked through were likewise familiar, yet unfamiliar.

Binondo Today and Yesterday

Ivan showing the group a “grandma” slipper that is almost in the brink of deletion.

Our gracious host, Ivan Man Dy met us at the Binondo Church located across the Plaza Calderon dela Barca along Quentin Paredes St.

It is today a well-known landmark in Chinatown.  Because the saint once served there as an altar boy, it is also known as Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz.

At the Plaza across the church, we talked briefly about how the early Hokkien (Fookien) immigrants arrived from Fujian province in China during the Spanish rule and the time when Binondo was the main center of business and finance in Manila with mainly the Chinese, Chinese mestizos, and Spanish Filipinos anchoring the bustling banking and financial community many decades ago.

Today, the community is still vibrant as ever and continues to keep alive its heritage.

Café Mezzanine

After a brief reminder of our history, we walked over to a café above Eng Bee Tin where we were served a bowl of “kiampung”, which literally translates to salty rice.

This rice dish is a mixture of pork, chicken, dried shrimps, mushrooms and peanuts mixed together in soy sauce and topped with caramelized and spring onions – a simple dish that reminded me of my childhood, my grandmother, actually.  Opened and run by a group of volunteer firemen headed by Gerry Chua, all of its proceeds go to the Binondo and Paco Volunteer Fire Search and Rescue Brigade.  So if you find yourself in the area, head on to Café Mezzanine and eat up a storm, every bite you take is a contribution to a noble cause.  Located at the corner of Ongpin and Yuchengco (former Nueva St) Sts., it opens its doors at 7am and closes at 10pm.

Dong Bei Restaurant

Fried Kutchay Pancake

We then walked over to a hole in a wall that serves perhaps the best dumplings in town.

At the storefront (as you enter) there will be someone making fresh dumplings by hand for everyone to see.

Owned by new immigrants Ivan calls “bagong salta” (new arrivals) from Northern China, they serve prominent dishes from that region.

Heavenly with the sauce!

The steamed Kutchay dumpling is a blend of minced pork, kutchay and fresh shrimps – juicy pork dumpling flavored with kutchay and fresh crisp shrimp adding another dimension to the taste of the dumpling.  This is truly a wonderful blend of flavors and is heavenly with the soy-vinegar sauce.   I loved it so much, I bought some frozen ones to savor more of it at home.  Heard that they also make a mean dish of hand-made noodle with Soybean sauce.  Must get myself back there to try it.

Fried Siopao

Another favorite and a first for me is fried siopao from a small take-out stall along Benevidez St. Yes folks, this siopao is not steamed but pan-fried.  This might be the best tasting siopao I had ever tasted in my life.  Not the typical asado filling, this is more like bola-bola siopao but much more tastier.   Definitely a must-try.

Aside from the siopao, I also bought to munch some sugar sprinkled bicho-bicho (Chinese crullers).  This was a favorite and truly a blast from my past!

There’s more and best to experience it first hand.  The Big Binondo Food Wok.  Go book a tour today.  And oh… make sure you’re hungry.

Posted on by Jenn 4

My take on Kalbijim

A and I love Korean beef stew or Kalbijim as they call it in Korea.  For some reason – with all the delectable authentic Korean dishes we had during our 4 days stay – Kalbijim was surprisingly not part of the menu.  Don’t ask me why, it’s a mystery to me as it may be to you.  So in the spirit of my visit to Korea and missing out on the authentic taste of this wonderful tasting beef stew, I’ve decided one evening to look up a recipe and reminisce the taste of Korea just one more time.

Korean Beef Stew

  • 1 Kilo short ribs or beef flank
  • 4 slices ginger
  • 2 tsps. garlic, chopped
  • 1 pc. onion, sliced
  • ¼ tsp. chili powder
  • 2 tbsps. brown sugar
  • 6 tbsps. Kikkoman Soy Sauce
  • 3 cups beef stock
  • 1 pc. carrot, cubed
  • 2 pcs. raddish, cubed
  • 1 tbsp. Manjo Mirin
  • 1 tbsp. sesame oil
  • sesame seeds, toasted
  • leeks

Here’s what you do:

  • Boil beef in 3 cups water seasoned with salt and pepper for 30 minutes.  Set aside.
  • Saute ginger, garlic, onion, chili powder.  Add sugar and beef.  Make sure to cook until slightly brown.
  • Pour soy sauce and beef stock.  Cook until beef is tender.
  • Add carrots, raddish, mirin, sesame oil.  Garnish with toasted sesame seeds and leeks.

I had some mushrooms so I threw that in which explains the inclusion in the photo.  Totally optional, just wanted to use up the remaining mushrooms I had and add more veggies onto the dish.  If you want a truly authentic beef stew, omit the mushrooms.

Posted on by Jenn 5

Maa Shee Saw Yo (Delicious!)

Credits:  Kitschy Digitals – You Are Awesome Kit Plain and Yellow Houndstooth papers; JSprague Awesome Scallop tag

Twenty years ago, Korea to me meant underground shopping where overruns of well-known brands abound.

Itaewon

Today, these so-called underground shops albeit scarce still exists but no longer rule my interest.  More than lovely sceneries (which I only discovered on this trip), it’s the cuisine that got me fired up.  Korean food ranked high on my list of favorites ever since I stepped foot on their soil some twenty years ago.  The proliferation of Korean restos in my neck of the woods nurtured that fondness.  Lucky for us, we had great Korean hosts and night after night, we were treated with authentic Korean cuisine and more. And contrary to some reports, Koreans are very courteous people.   🙂

Some of my favorite dishes came to life and once again, I got to taste it from its source.

Bibimbap

Rice, meat, vegetables, an egg and chili paste.  Mixed together and I’m in heaven.  What I love best about this is the crusty rice at the bottom.  So better make sure that it is served in a hot stone bowl.

Chapchae

Usually served as a side dish in Korea but I can have it as a main dish anytime.  It can truly make my day.

Galbi Gui

The first time I tried this was in a small restaurant in Itaewon and I’ve never looked back.  A must have in every Korean dinners.  It is short ribs marinated in Korean Soy Sauce, garlic and sugar and then grilled, usually at the table.   Typically served with lettuce, which is used to wrap the beef in.  The hot bean paste called ssamjang sealed the deal for me.

Kimchi

Funny how I sometimes crave for this when it wasn’t love at first taste…  nope, not at all!  It actually took a while for me to even like this stuff.  But what is Korean food without kimchi?

A Colorful Platter of 9 ingredients in Thin Crepe

This was interesting and a first encounter.  The platter came with thinly sliced fresh and pickled vegetables and mushrooms.  Gather a few of each and wrap with the crepe.  Maa shee saw yo!

It was a great trip to Korea even if it was actually work (and a bit of play).  The food capped it all, as usual.

Posted on by Jenn 3

The Best View in Seoul

From ancient to modern.  The Namsan Tower of Seoul was built in 1969 as a communications tower.  It is today also an observations tower known as the N Seoul Tower when it opened its doors to the public in 1980.  It has since then become a must-see destination for those visiting the city.  The N Seoul Tower lies atop Mt. Namsan (hence the name) and stands 479m above sea level at its peak.  This art and cultural multiplex commands a spectacular view of the city on a good day.

On a bad day such as the day we were there, the smog did not allow for clear view…   😦

For those residing in Seoul, it has turned into a trendy urban haven offering exciting things to do and see.   Imagine dining at a revolving 360˚ panoramic backdrop… ok it’s nothing new

but has anyone been to a toilet such as this?

On the same level, we admired the view while having our cuppa joe and this awesomely moist camembert muffin.  A two-thumbs up!!

Part of their effort to preserve the environment of Namsan is by banning private vehicles from entering the mountain since 2005.  One would have to walk up the hill, or take the cable car.  We opted to walk, which makes for a good exercise albeit pleasant due to the lush trees that shade the road ascending to the tower.

As you reach the entrance, a floating figure greets and on the side of the tower is a viewing deck or a terrace (as they call it)

with countless locks attached to the railing, conveying eternal love.

Supposedly an idea copied from the Tokyo Tower. Our guide disclosed that a friend of his has six padlocks going on seven attached on the many rails of the deck.

But… but…   😕  But I guess hope springs eternal.   😀

Posted on by Jenn 2

Chang Deok Gung: A Palace in Harmony with Nature

The ancient seat of Korean royalty has 5 major palaces in Seoul and some are definitely worth a visit.  Chang Deok Gung is one.  We visited the palace as recommended if given half a day sightseeing only.  Some chose to go shopping… not me.  Although Geong Bok Gung is the grandest palace and the seat of power for centuries, we didn’t go there because it would need more time to fully explore.

And even if Chang Deok Gung is 2nd only in importance to Gyeong Bok Gung, it was a favorite of many kings of the Joseon Dynasty, perhaps because it was built in harmony with nature.

The walls inside the palace were laid out freely, not imposing but rather blending with nature

and this earned the palace a UNESCO listing as World Heritage Site in 1997.

Both palaces were totally destroyed by fire during the Japanese invasion of 1592.  After the war, Gyeong Bok Gung was not rebuilt because its site was no longer considered auspicious.

Instead, Chang Deok Gung was restored in 1610 and served as main palace for the next 258 years, until Gyeong Bok Gung was finally rebuilt in 1868.

Some sites to note:

Seongjeongjeon – where the king handled routine state affairs.

Originally a hall for the king, but it was also used by queens to throw parties to honor elders and encourage customs of respecting one’s elders.

For leisure and relaxation, the royal family had a secret garden built.  The garden presents an unusually exquisite design adapted to the topography.

Buyongji lies in the heart of the Secret Garden.  A relatively open space used for retreats as well as for study.

A number of buildings were built around this rectangular pond.

Jondeojeong – this area is believed to have been the last to be added on to the Secret Garden.

The Palace in more detail:


Posted on by Jenn 11

Roasted Veggies!

I’ve been stuffing myself with way too much meat lately.  So, last night I scrounged through my ref and put together a medley of veggies that will soon waste away from neglect.  I cut up a piece each of zucchini, carrot, onion, and some breakfast sausages – just for flavor.

I sprinkled on to the veggies a small amount of rub, which I got when I was in Healdsburg a couple of years ago, coated it with a bit of olive oil, and popped into the oven to roast till veggies caramelized.

Turned out quite well, if I may say so.  As the label suggests, it is best with pork or lamb but it surprisingly is very good with grilled or roast veggies too.  The sweetness of the veggies combined well with the herbs and spice blend.

Luckily, this all-purpose rub is sometimes available at Chelsea.  Would you believe I went crazy when I recently caught sight of it and bought one of each variant they had? Heehee!

Posted on by Jenn 3

Sliding In Some Exploring

Credits:  Template by Crystal; Scratchy overlay from JSprague’s Thank Ya Kindly kit; Papers:  Brown Solid, Dark Blue Solid, Green Solid, Red Solid, Engraved Birds (JSprague’s TW Kits), Trish Jones’ Radiant Essence.

Oftentimes work gets in the way of my adventures – that is not a good thing.  But sometimes it brings me out of town, out of the country even – and THAT is a good thing. Even if I spend a lot of the time confined in a conference, I try to squeeze a day or two (say the weekend before or after the official business meetings) to explore the area.  There are times though that I skip exploring altogether due to time constraint.  Not this time… this time, work brought me to Seoul and the meeting started on a Monday so yeah…

I decided to take it easy because I wasn’t traveling with my usual set of travel buddies and lest they kill me, taking it easy was the route to take.  First order of the day was brunch at Apgujeong-dong.

A residential and shopping district in one of the most affluent areas of Seoul, Apgujeong has luxury brand stores, home grown boutiques,

new trendy eateries and open-air cafes lining its streets.  Most offer ritzy atmosphere and high quality goods and services.

We meandered through the streets in search for coffee.  It was still early and because it was a Sunday perhaps, stores and restaurants open later than we are used to so we wandered into a Starbucks, just for that coffee fix.

Homemade-style fresh organic food — B.B. Cafe by Hanskin

The organic café that first caught my fancy does not open till 12nn and when we went back (at 12nn), they weren’t serving the pizza we were eyeing earlier until 2… go figure!

We ended up satisfying our pizza craving at Schadheli, not as charming at first glance, but cozy enough for us to notice.  We ordered a good ol’ reliable Margherita and it was good so we tried another flavor, this time we were more more adventurous.

This one had spicy chicken topping drizzled in honey… yes honey.  It complimented well with the “Korean-style” spicy chicken and the cheese.

They make a mean Vongole too.

Koreans and their coffee, there must be something about it because coffee houses are seen in every corner, Starbucks and other international chains notwithstanding.  We walked into De Chocolate Coffee because we fancied the façade.

Coffee here was good, but the sweets… superb.

After that eating escapade interspersed with a little bit of shopping, we headed back to our hotel to get ready for the next order of the day… cocktails and then dinner.

Posted on by Jenn 12

A Museum of Art and Nature

A short ride from the Baguio City center along Km 6, Asin Road stands a modern white building that is BenCab’s Museum.  A 4-hectare project of the National Artist for Visual Arts, Benedicto Reyes Cabrera, more popularly known as BenCab.

The Master of contemporary Philippine Arts traces his beginnings in Mabini where he painted and ran an art gallery with his elder brother Salvador Cabrera.  He then moved to London, gotten married to a British writer and eventually established for himself a name of international recognition.  When his marriage ended, he relocated to Baguio in 1988 and along with other artists formed the Baguio Arts Guild.  BenCab being a tenacious admirer and collector of Cordillera Arts also formed his own group of artists when he established the Tam-awan Village, an art center that promotes Cordillera traditions.

So it is to no surprise that aside from the BenCab Gallery, which presents a range of his works of different periods, sizes and styles,

the museum also houses a Cordillera Gallery displaying a collection of tribal artifacts and indigenous crafts of the northern Luzon highlanders.

It also showcases artworks by contemporary Filipino artists – Cesar Legaspi, Anita Magsaysay-Ho, Fernando Zobel, Arturo Luz, Ed Borlongan to name a few.  A collection he accumulated through the years.

Aside from promoting art, a major part of its mission is to preserve, protect, and conserve its natural surroundings.  And how?

The museum commands a breathtaking view of the adjacent organic garden, its surrounding mountains and the South China Sea on the horizon.  Other sections of the estate features large ponds for ducks and a thatched-roof gazebo erected on a center island.

Café Sabel, serving cordillera coffee, tea and some food, is on the ground floor and overlooks all these.  Truly a remarkable man’s gift to a community he joined more than a decade ago.

A museum that is worth a visit opens its doors from Tuesday to Sunday, 9am-6pm.  Admission fee is P100 per head.

Posted on by Jenn 10