Ubud… Second time around

I’ve been to Bali 3 times in the past 2 decades. Twice for work and once tagging along an incentive trip of an ex. Each time was spent on a beach resort, Nusa Dua to be exact. My first and only time in Ubud prior to this trip was in 1991. A day trip only. Almost 2 decades later, here I am experiencing Ubud like it was my first time.

Ubud is Bali’s cultural enclave, where one can find artists’ studios & galleries, rice fields, ornate temples and ancient historical sites. While it once was an oasis for backpackers, artists and bohos, Ubud is now a popular destination for literati, glitterati, art collectors and connoisseurs. Elegant 5 star hotels and sprawling mansions now stand in the outskirts of Ubud.

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So without further hoo-ha, here’s a list of places that deserves a thumbs up (according to me)!

The Crispy Duck of Bebeck Bengil:

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Lines were long even at 1pm. Obviously a popular eating joint for both locals and tourists alike. Service was slow and quite inefficient. But the (long) wait was worth it. The duck was very tasty. Crispy yet juicy – fried to perfection, if you ask me. It didn’t look very appetizing but it definitely had me at first bite.

Dinner at Lamak Restaurant and Bar:

lamak

Hands down the best meal of our entire stay. Located along Monkey Forest Road, they serve excellent fusion dishes like Tea Infused Duck Broth with dumpling and Sesame crusted Scallop w/ Kung Pao Sauce. And desserts like Orange & Ginger Bruleé, Chocolate Soufflé and Chili ice cream. Nuff said! My dad actually wanted to return for lunch or dinner the next day. 😀

Pura Puseh Temple, Batuan Village:

pura-puseh

Considered to be one of the finest and oldest temples in Bali. The temple dates back to the 11^th century and has many fine carvings. This Balinese village of Batuan possesses one of the richest cultural legacies on the island. Renowned for some of the finest music, dances and sculptures in all of Bali, it has performances twice a month of the Gambuh, a rare ancient dance drama. Regular performances are held on the 1^st and 15^th of every month. Nope, we didn’t catch it; it was the wrong time of the month.

Ubud Palace / Puri Saren Agung

ubud-palace

Set in the center of Ubud, across the Ubud Central Market. This is the palace of the Royal family that ruled from the late 1800’s until World War II and is essentially the father of other Ubud Palaces or Puri, as the locals call it.

When we arrived, a portion of the palace was closed (for unknown reasons) but the little that I saw of the grounds impressed me. The garden was beautifully kept, the old stone gates and the statue guards in that familiar checkered cloth skirts were main points of interest. Definitely worth a revisit.

The front courtyard is open to the public during the day and a traditional dance performance, the Legong Dance is held here every night. Interesting to note, some of the pavilions have been turned into hotel rooms for those who want a glimpse of the Royal life.

Shopping!!!

shopping-in-ubud

Along Monkey Forest Road and Jalan Raya. Fantastic and extremely varied. You can find all kinds from ancient antiques to whimsical trinkets. Shops upon shops filled with sarongs, woodcarvings, paintings, souvenirs, jewelries, incense potteries… It’s a shopping haven even if I had to put my rusty bargaining powers to use. For many, bargaining is an art and is what makes shopping fun… not for me as patience is not my virtue. Wahaha! 😛

Maya Ubud – A Haven of Tranquility

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Our home for 4 days. Let’s just say I can afford it because I wasn’t paying for it. If you like the finer things in life and prefer traveling luxuriously as my family does, Maya Ubud is for you.

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Reviews says that it is a cut above the rest and rightly so. Located high between 2 river valleys, set in sprawling lawns and gardens, Maya Ubud is indeed a haven of tranquility. All villas face the river, and the sound of the river brings such serenity.

maya-villa

I adore my villa and the daybed outside my room. I spent a lot of time reading on that comfy daybed. It is pure bliss to be able to just relax and read my book. The greatest indulgence however was a relaxing bathing experience in the privacy of my bathroom. For US$15, I had a personal assistant prepare my bath. When I arrived from dinner, there it was, all ready for me. I just had to slide in and enjoy my book some more before I slumbered off. Now that’s what I call capping the day. And the best part is that they provided an extra set with their compliments and for 2 straight nights I bathe in tranquility. Such is life! 😉

maya-bath

One thing I didn’t get to do was try the award winning spa. It was kinda duh of me but I just couldn’t bring myself to pay for something that I can get in Manila for a quarter of the price. Could anything be that worth it? Regretfully, I’ll never know! 😦

Posted on January 30, 2009July 12, 2010 by Jenn 1

Summing Up the Year That Was

I am blessed. Blessed to be able to explore the world, albeit not as extensive as I want to but I’ve had some fair share of adventure and fun last year. So I’m not complaining. Last year was a good mix of local and international travels, small and big trips. Rounding them up, there were highs and lows, great satisfactions and some disappointments. Here’s a run down of my best and not so best experiences of 2008.

The Disappointment

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Donsol – in pursuit of the elusive whale sharks (Feb)

We were ready to jump anytime but the whale sharks were scarce. There were way too many boats, way too disorganized and so we caught a glimpse of its… tail. Oh well… this calls for another trip sometime in the future.

One Miserable Climb

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Mt. Pulag – rained out! (Feb)

We started the trek with just overcast clouds, then it drizzled and when we reached the campsite, it poured. It let up a bit just so we can go to the loo and cook our dinner. Then it started again. Rained the whole night and the whole day, next day. Needless to say, the summit was foggy and really, really cold! No sunrise, just slippery, flooded trails. Good thing this was not my first time here and I’ve seen a glorious sunrise in 2002. But we still had fun.

My Favorite Asian Destination (thus far)

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Luang Prabang, Laos (Mar)

The jewel of Indochina and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Surrounded by mountains at the junction of the Mekong and its tributary, the Khan River, Luang Prabang to me is a city where time stood still.

It was a wonderful 5 days of various adventures. One day was spent trekking to the Kwang Si falls, another learning to cook Lao dishes. There were a lot of walking, eating (Lao and French meals), sunset cocktails and we even had a taste of a traditional Khamu massage. It was fantastic.

A Delightful Road Trip

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Viaje del Sol (Apr) – a blend of good food and the arts. From Kusina ni Salud (for dinner) to Ugu Bigyan (for lunch and his potteries) to Carlito’s (for coffee, mangoes and his sculptures) in one weekend resulting to another follow-up weekend. This time, we stayed in Casa San Pablo, checked out Kinabuhayan Café, and had a satisfying lunch at Sulyap Gallery Café, a restaurant cum antique gallery. There definitely will be a 3^rd trip to this Viaje del Sol sometime in the future. Perhaps we’ll try a meal at Kinabuhayan Café, try that famous buko pie locals are raving about and do an overnight at Sitio de Amor.

Wonderfully Surprised

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Dolphins Galore at Puerto Bay (May)

Didn’t even know that they had a lot in Puerto Princesa, Palawan. There were tons of ’em. What we didn’t see in Donsol, these dolphins made up for. We didn’t even need a spotter as they were all over the place. Never saw so much in my life. Tons and tons of them. Hope to dive there someday.

A Junk Experience

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Cruisin’ Halong Bay, Hanoi (Jul)

When in Hanoi, one must experience cruising along Halong Bay in a junk at least once. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the bay features calm water and thousands of limestone karsts and islets in various shapes and size. Something like Palawan.

A Star-strucked Moment

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Dinner at Restaurant Bobby Chinn, Hanoi (Jul)

Even if he wasn’t around, I was excited to be there. Totally am infatuated with this celebrity chef of Travel and Living’s World Asia Café series. And the food did not disappoint. Maybe because I’m so infatuated. Hee Hee! Expensive but superb. Sorry but no photos of the food and the place except from across the street. It was a treat from DBF to cap our Hanoi adventure and we agreed no cameras, besides the place was too dark to get even one decent photo.

Great Amusement

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Watching the traffic of Hanoi at the Old Quarter (Jul)

We spent hours atop a restaurant sipping beer, relaxing and watching the traffic below with amazement. The chaos of Vietnam traffic just amused us no end. Watch and be amused.

The Best Reunion Ever

sf-reunion

A San Francisco get-together with my high school buddies (Aug)… some I haven’t seen in 26 years. It was a trip down memory lane but more importantly, it was literally a food trip as well. Our friend and classmate, JT, now a chef cooked a superb dinner for us! They’re actually planning another one this year… a US trip 2 years in a row is out of my budget if I want to explore other new places as well, so boohoo for me.

A Cove Truly Breathtaking

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Anawangin Cove (Sep)

This could pass as my runner-up for the Most Miserable Climb too. I am a clumsy person and more often than not, I fall and hurt myself. So during the trek I was already asking “why do I do this to myself”? when I banged my knee in the course of what I thought was an easy trek. I’ve seen beautiful pixes, read and heard so much about this “not so secret” place and finally am hours away from it. Thrilled and excited as I started the 7.3 km trek to Anawangin Cove, I was 3rd to arrive at the saddle (which had an awesome view of the cove, by the way). Not bad, if I may brag… Many months of lifting, walking on a machine (that goes nowhere), puffing and pushing is finally paying off. THEN… without warning, I slipped and fell about 30 minutes through our descent, all because I was not paying attention to the trail. It was agony from then on. Let’s just say that I trudged downhill, passing rocky streams for another 2+ hours before I reached the camp… From 3rd to last! Thirsty, tired and in pain but dampen my spirits it did not as it was indeed so BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL! Picture this, Agojo (imagine pine trees as it looked so much like it) forest on the beach with a meandering fresh water stream that flows out to the sea. And that is why I keep doing this to myself.

An Adrenalin-filled Birthday Weekend

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Rafting the Chico (Oct)

Been doing this for almost a decade but never on my birthday. So that’s new. If you’ve never tried this, you should! You will experience one heck of a weekend, a totally worked out upper body, and the thrill of a lifetime. Contact Anton Carag of AEPI for bookings.

An Incredible Underwater Experience

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Mantas and Sharks up close in Yap (Nov)

Amazing… is all I can say. An experience of a lifetime. Read more about it here.

Posted on January 17, 2009March 1, 2011 by Jenn 3

A New Year Away from it All

Wish you stayed away from the noise and smoke of Manila during the New Year? You did? I did. The clean, crisp air, cold weather, beautiful pine trees, delicious yoghurt of Sagada was enough to convince my friends to meet me in Baguio after their climb. Their climb was a 3-day hike up the summit of Mt. Ugo, which I (sadly) couldn’t join because my family has this annual vacation that’s usually planned around the Christmas break. This year we decided on Ubud in Bali so that’s interesting enough for me not to be too envious, right? But after seeing their photos, I’m now officially envious. ANYWAY, when I heard of their plans, I suggested New Years in Sagada.

And so, on the evening of the 30th, straight from the airport, I went home only to change backpacks and off I was to Baguio. We took the 6 o’clock bus the next morning and arrived in Sagada by noon in time for lunch at my favorite Yoghurt House. This cozy hole in a wall is one reason why I never tire of Sagada. This was where I fell in love with anything with yoghurt. Not always available but if they have it, their Yoghurt with Bananas, Strawberry preserves and Granola is a definite “must try”! But even without the preserve (which is more often than not), it still comes highly recommended.

yoghurthouse

New Year’s eve dinner may not be as much of a hit as lunch was but the ambience made up for it. Nothing like having dinner at a cozy log cabin complete with a fireplace, with food all you can eat, and very hospitable hosts and staffs. It’s like being a part of one, big, happy inner circle. New Year’s eve buffet dinner at the Log Cabin (always prepared by Chef Philip Aklay – a French guy who had made Sagada his home) had become a tradition to the Sagada regulars. The food sounded better than it tasted, unfortunately. Too experimental for me. The salad and the chicken were hits though. My friend actually preferred this year’s dinner to last year’s. So there you go… perhaps it gets better through the years. Or perhaps I was expecting too much. I’ve always had great meals at the Log Cabin so this blah experience was a surprise and a bit of a disappointment.

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Note that the disappointment was from the New Year’s Eve dinner. We went back for an a la cart dinner prepared by the owner Dave (never got his last name) and everything was superb. You shouldn’t leave Sagada without having tried their Pork Tenderloin.

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With all the walking my friends did at Mt. Ugo (3 DAYS!!!), the last thing they wanted to do was walk. So I willingly and happily contented myself to stay in town, continue pigging out and finish the book I started (which I actually did). But whaddyaknow! We bumped into a friend at Yoghurt House who brought his 4×4. He invited us to Besao. Never been there so trying not to sound too eager… I said YES! And so we went to Besao, originally to find the world-renowned stone calendar but it was still a long way off so we scrapped the idea and just took a look at St. Benedict’s Church. A charming little church that looks very similar to St. Mary’s of Sagada. Besao is the darling town after Sagada, which they say has beautiful sunsets. We couldn’t stay to validate the claim as we had dinner reservations that night (at the Log Cabin).

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On our way back we passed by Lake Danum to take photos of the normally calm lake. When the water is still, the reflection of the sky vividly captured in still water makes a really good photograph. But it was not so that day. The water was rippling from very strong winds.

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I swear, those were one of the coldest days I’ve ever experienced in Sagada, aggravated by strong winds. It was so cold that I had to buy knitted gloves to keep my hands from freezing. We were walking around in fleece, windbreakers, bonnets and gloves at high noon! Really! Between the 4 of us (and a little help from others), we downed 2 bottles of wine and a bottle of Limoncello in 3 days. Hick! 😉

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I must say, we started the year well. Bumped into old friends, made new ones as well. Revisited old favorites, and discovered new ones. Hope yours was good too!

Getting there:

To Sagada via Baguio:

At the Dangwa station, take Lizardo Transit Bus. First trip normally leaves by 6:30am; last trip at 1:00pm

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Going back (Sagada – Baguio):

First bus arrives at the bus stop (there’s only one) at 5:30 – 6:00 am and leaves as soon as it is full. Sits are first come first serve and since this bus originates from Besao, there may not have a lot left. Bus arrives every hour thereafter, so if you miss this one, you can take the next one.

Travel time: 6-7 hours

Bus Fare: P 220 (one-way)

To Sagada via Banaue:

Auto Bus or Florida Bus Line has daily trips to Banaue, leaves Manila approximately around 10pm.

Travel time: 8-9 hours

Contact Details:

Auto Bus

Espana cornor Catalina,

Sampaloc, Manila

Phone: 735-8096

Bus fare: P 460

Florida Bus Line

Sampaloc, Manila

Phones: 743-3809 / 731-5358 / 493-3667

Bus fare: P 450

In Banaue, take a short tricycle ride from the bus stop to the town proper where you can find (Immanuel Bus Liners) buses to Bontoc.

Travel Time: 1-1/2 hours

Bus fare: P 100

In Bontoc, get on jeepneys to Sagada from the Municipal Hall. The bus stops very near the Hall so you won’t have to walk far.

Travel time: 45 minutes to 1 hour

Jeepney fare: P 35

Sagada to Banaue:

Do everything in reverse.

Manila – Bontoc – Sagada Route

Another option is to take Cable Tours which ends in Bontoc, saves having to transfer buses in Banaue however, their buses are limited (I heard) and you may end up losing a day (if the bus conks out or something).

Travel time: 12 hours

Contact details:

Cable Tours

E Rodriguez QC, near Trinity College

Phone: 074-602-1068

Cell: 0918-521-6790

0921-448-8814

Bus fare: P 600

Credits: frames by Joyful Heart Designs, from the Plain Jane Kit

Posted on January 10, 2009July 18, 2010 by Jenn 6

From One Garden to Another

So after all that hiking, I’m now dreaming of a sumptuous dinner. But of course! I worked hard and I’m in Tagaytay after all. So we showered, changed and set out to find this chateau.

After driving for about 20 minutes in semi darkness, we turned into a small road that lead us to Chateau Hestia. It had ample space for parking (not that we needed it as we were the only car there that night), a trellis lead us to the main entrance. The owner, Johannes Zehethofer is Austrian so it was not surprising to see Schnitzel in their menu but Osso Bucco and Viennese Roast Pork came highly recommended so Osso Bucco it was for me.

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Let me digress a bit and dwell first on this charming bed and breakfast / restaurant. I really didn’t notice since we were there at night but I read somewhere that the entire place was made of container vans. The bed and breakfast part, I did not see but the restaurant interiors reminded me of a cozy country style home with lots of wooden furniture, all different in design. The staffs are well informed and knew a lot about their menu… am impressed!

interiors_hestia

Where are all the people? We were once again the only ones there so the service and food was quite good. My Osso Bucco was tender, cooked in tomato sauce. Since it came highly recommended, I expected a lot from it. Well, it didn’t really disappoint (but it didn’t leave a lasting impression either) but I want to go back to try their other specialty, the Roast Pork. From what I gathered, everyone was pretty happy with their food. Nothing to complain about, really. 🙂

food_hestia

Clockwise: Osso Bucco, Australian Rib Eye, Poutin, Crema de Limoncelo (melted vanilla ice cream w/ limoncelo & mango bits), Mango Napoleon (graham crust, mangoes, white chocolate)

But the passion fruit topped panna cotta… YUM! Had to convince K to order it as I wasn’t too impressed with the desserts we had. Am I glad I persevered! 😀 The sourness of the passion fruit totally complemented the sweetness of the panna cotta. The best among the dessert lot (for me).

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Oh and I must mention that they serve dalandancelo (their version of limoncelo which I love, love, love). Well, you can’t beat the real thing but it was a good version. Perfect to warm our bodies on a chilly night.

European food products are sold here as well. Most (ok, some) are available in Santi’s though.

merchandise_hestia

So are you close to done with Christmas shopping coz I’m NOT!

Chateau Hestia

Silang, Cavite

0929-7113289

www.chateauhestia.com

Posted on December 17, 2008January 18, 2009 by Jenn 0

A Moon Garden

Apparently is any garden that is designed to be enjoyed at night. These gardens are planted with a focus in flowers and foliage, which reflects the soft lights of the moon.

Tucked away from the main road, this garden is a wonderful discovery. The place looked promising as we approached the entrance and as promised, the garden is what makes this place. Old furniture pieces here and there, some floral themed paintings but what caught my eye as I approached the main area was this lotus pond accented by a thatched cabana. Nice. 🙂

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We arrived late in the afternoon after our Batulao trek and we practically had the place to ourselves even if there were cars parked outside. The guests were probably out but even after dinner and during breakfast, they were nowhere to be found. Honeymooners, you think? 😉

The casita was charming, complete with a welcome herb tea drink, the bed comfortable and the bathroom… interesting, as it does not have a door. The headboard serves as it’s partition and both sides were kept open. Good thing we are not shy girls! Haha! 😀

casita

At night the garden transformed into… well, a moon garden. It was indeed lovelier at night with the lights perfectly positioned to add drama to it. Love it! I must say, this place is perfect for honeymooners. 😉

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Woke up early to take pics of the garden in the morning and to soak up this place. Did a little journaling too.

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Breakfast was not bad, better than expected. Nothing great though. I had the ham and egg scramble with ciabatta bread and pineapple marmalade. Love the marmalade, not too sweet and it had chunks of pineapple. They served Batangas coffee cooked the old fashion way (the way Barako coffee used to be) hence the strainer (to catch the stray coffee grind). I love yogurt and the set came with homemade yogurt and honey (which was why I ordered it in the first place) but I was disappointed. The yogurt was too runny; I prefer it thicker like Greek yogurt thick. The guyabano juice, I’m not crazy about… I’d rather have it as a fruit.

breakfast

Other breakfast fares:

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Clockwise: Adobo flakes, Cheese Omelet, Homemade corned beef guisado, and Banana flambé

It was a great treat after the hike, beats having to camp out. It’s a perfect hideaway if you just want to chill out and get away from the Tagaytay crowd. Not too far from the main road so it is easy access to all the dining places should you decide to come out of seclusion.

The Moon Garden

SVD Road, Bgy. San Jose, Tagaytay

09175023118

www.moongardentagaytay.com

Posted on December 12, 2008December 25, 2008 by Jenn 0

Of Birthdays and Friendships

“Sing a song of Birthdays full of fun and cheer and may you keep having fun for many a happy year.” Anonymous

“Good fellowship and friendship are lasting, rational and manly pleasures.” William Wycherley

Every year, we celebrate without fail, growing closer through the years. We used to just meet up for dinner but lately our celebrations have become more special, more memorable, enjoyable. We have the fortune of having our birthdays close to each other (well, ok a 3 month span might be pushing it?) affording us to celebrate together and more recently a bit more grandiose as we can split the bill 5 ways. Now why didn’t we think of that earlier?

Previous years’ celebrations would bring us out of town, an overnight even. Each and every one of them special in its own way. Our love for each other triumphs over any arguments or disagreements (and yes, we have a lot of those). And these out of towns are our Mighty Bond.

Bale Dutung

This year’s birthday bash brought us to Angeles, Pampanga. To Bale Dutung, Claude and Maryann Tayag’s residence. Here, we celebrated our birthday in a grand way. A 4-hour lunch specially prepared by Claude himself while Maryann served and entertained us. It was such an experience, a first for everyone. The menu was mainly Kapampangan with a twist, Claude’s twist. There were more appetizers/starters than main entrees but the variety provided us a chance to sample more dishes. Truth is, the food was a little too much and by the end of the course, our bellies would only allow a few spoonfuls

of the Seafood Kare-kare, which unfortunately was so yummy. Oh and the dessert (christened Paradiso by the late Doreen Fernandez) was HEAVEN. We actually had to take a break before dessert. The hosts graciously toured us around their lovely home. Bale Dutung, meaning “House of Wood” (or “Wooden House”?) had Claude’s sculpted masterpieces tastefully scattered all over the house giving it so much more character. And the papers, magazines, books etc added to its lived-in charm.

Special Mention

Can I mention again that the dessert was lip-smacking delish? It’s a little bit of crème brulee, yema (creamy candy made of egg yolks, sugar and milk) and halo-halo (it had a bit of ube, macapuno and camote) put together. That combination + the bittersweet crunchiness of the caramalized sugar… perfection! I heard that the secret to its creaminess (not so secret anymore) is Carabao’s milk! To. Die. For! Can you tell I have a sweet tooth? 😉 Heard that they normally serve this only to larger groups as it is not easy to prepare and that milk is not always available. So Mr. Tayag, you just made one girl verry, verry happy!

Note: will have to mooch pics from Irene– mine’s too blurred to post 😦 Gotta get a DSLR! Promise to be back with more pics.

Update: As promised, here are more pics… many thanks to Irene!

Deeply Honored

Thank you, my dear, dear friends for celebrating yet another year with me and may the friendship and the celebration continue till we’re old and gray. Love you guys!

Thank you too Claude and Mary Ann Tayag for opening your wonderful home to us. The food was exceptional, but the hospitality… matchless! Thanks again… sniff!

Posted on November 15, 2008March 20, 2010 by Jenn 5

my adventure odyssey

travel tales, gustatory delights and beyond