How the Andalusian Horses Dance

“We must see this” and so we did. What sealed the deal for Cadiz to be part of our itinerary besides Anton’s family were actually the horses. And if you too love horses, this you must not pass up.

Jerez de la Frontera, a municipality of Cadiz, lies in a fertile upland region on the southern edge of the Andalusian plains, between sea and mountain. This fertile land that surrounds the city produced some fine wines and sherry that has given rise to some of the most prominent families in the area. This wealth enabled them to invest on impressive stud and bull-breeding farms all around the city.

And for breeding the famous and the beautiful Andalusian Horses, Jerez became the cradle of Spanish horsemanship. Beautiful, docile, and gentle, the purebred Spanish horse impresses with its sculptured beauty of noble bearing and natural high action. Extremely elegant, naturally graceful in its rhythmic pace, and extraordinarily beautiful, the PRE (Pura Raza Española) is a horse breed from the Iberian Peninsula with 3,000 years of history. It has been known for its deftness as a warhorse and was prized by nobility.

The-Royal-Andalusian-School-of-Equestrian-Art

One of the best places to learn more about these beauties is in the Royal School of Equestrian Art or the Real Escuela Andaluz del Arte Escuetre, a riding school comparable to the world-famous Spanish Riding School in Vienna.

A beautiful garden surrounds the premise. A 19th-century palace, the Palacio de las Cadenas, serves as its headquarters and visitor center.

And whatever else you do, make sure to catch its equestrian ballet show entitled “How the Andalusian Horses Dance.”

To the beat of traditional Spanish music, the horses perform complex and arduous movements with effortless grace and control.

An absolute must.

Useful Info:

Real Escuela Andaluz del Arte Escuetre

Avenida Duque de Abrantes S/N,

Jerez de la Frontera

+34 956 319635

Posted on July 12, 2014July 12, 2014 by Jenn 2

Andalusia’s White Town Jaunts

Between the provinces of Malaga and Cadiz, lodged between the valleys and mountains or clustered high on the hillsides within the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, lies a cornucopia of sleepy white towns and villages. Traditionally lime-washed but now painted white houses make up these towns. Known as the Pueblos Blancos, they create a striking contrast amid a backdrop of rugged limestone mountain.

Out of the 6 or 7 noteworthy villages on the Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos, we managed 3 on a rented Opel.

After breakfast, from Ronda we headed north via the A428 and found our way to the first village on our route, Setenil de los Bodegas.

This quaint little village has houses built into rock overhangs above the Rio Trejo, many of which have the rock as its natural roofs and walls.

Fetching in an unusual kind of way, this Setenil.

Looking for a place to have a few beers and tapas (as it was nearing lunch time), we discovered that the hilly, winding streets in some parts of town are intimidatingly narrow

especially if one’s stick shift skills are rusty and the car is rented.

On Plaza de Andalucia, we found Bar Restaurante Dominguez quietly tucked in a corner of Calle Herreria.

I don’t remember anymore what drew us there (hunger perhaps) but following the recommendation of the owner, lunch was truly satisfying.

Let me first tell you about this stunning natural park, Sierra de Grazalema. It was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1977 because it has an exceptional variety of flora and fauna.

Do you see the eagle perched on the craggy edge of the limestone?

A karstic region set in 51,695 hectares of land that is surrounded by a string of limestone mountain ranges known collectively as… Sierra de Grazalema. So imagine the spectacular vista of rugged limestone cliffs, and impressive gorges, magnificent forest of rare Spanish firs, and the attractive white towns dotted around the sierra.

The village of Grazalema is located right at the center of its foothills. A beautiful white town beneath the craggy peak of San Cristobal.

It has its own charm with a simple central square, the Plaza de España, and cobbled streets lined with whitewashed houses with wrought ironed railing covered windows.

The town has two beautiful churches, Iglesia de la Aurora on Plaza de España and Iglesia de la Encarnacion. It is an ideal base for those who want to hike the sierra.

The last village we managed was the most picturesque among the three and a real must.

At the northern end of the Grazalema Natural Park, this pueblos blanco overlooks the turquoise water of El Embalse, a huge reservoir that dominates the view from the village perched atop a hill.

Zahara de la Sierra, once an important Moorish town has the surviving tower of the 12th century Moorish Castle looming over the valley.

Scattered below on the slopes are the red-tiled roof whitewashed houses of the village.

This couldn’t be a more outstanding finale to this excursion. Although we barely scratched the surface, like Ronda, visiting these pueblos blancos gave us a taste of the real Spain, its laid back way of life.

Amid such splendor, how can you not stop and smell the flowers? Cherish its beauty? Why would you even want to go anywhere?

Useful Info:

Bar Restaurante Dominguez

Plaza de Anadlucia, 11

Setenil de las Bodegas, Cadiz

Contact: +34 956 13 45 31

Posted on June 19, 2014July 6, 2014 by Jenn 2

Magnificent Town of Ronda

Tired from traveling the whole day, but I look out the window of our train plying Mr. Henderson’s railway en route to Ronda and all is well.

The scenery was stunning and the countryside, beautiful. It was a good decision, taking the train to Ronda as it was a gloriously scenic route.

rock-outcrop

On the plateau of a large rock outcrop stands the magnificent town of Ronda,

surrounded by rugged tracts of mountains, the Guadalquivir River running through it.

Gorgeous city steeped in history, set in and around a deep gorge known as El Tajo (the edge),

and spanned by an astounding 18th century arched bridge,

the Puente Nuevo, connecting La ciudad, the old Ronda with the new.

The old quarter charms with cobbled stone streets,

lovely churches, striking white houses

and buildings with wrought iron balconies

but not to let pass the cafes, tapas bars and restaurants that sprinkle the town.

For decades, Ronda has been favored by those with a passion for Spanish food and likes to eat well. Tapas, small portions of food, both hot and cold, are served in bars and bodegas to go with a copa de fino (dry Spanish sherry) or beer.

A pleasant and enjoyable way to take in its rich heritage is to wander around town to savor not only the sights but its cuisine as well.

We spent a whole lot of time walking the streets of Ronda, captivated by the spectacular views it offered at every turn. No wonder Welles and Hemingway spent so much time there. I wish I had taken their cue and spent more time there.

Ronda delivered beyond my expectation. It was a fantastic kick-off to an Andalusian adventure.

More of Ronda through my lens:

On the Puente Nuevo

Plaza del Toro — Ronda’s bullring known to be the world’s first purpose-built bullring. The first fight in this bullring took place in 1785 with the famous matador, Pedro Romero and Pepe Hillo.

Iglesia de Sta. Maria la Mayor

Ronda is symbolic of Andalusia’s white town

On the bridge facing the south side of the gorge, La Ciudad and the heart of Moorish Ronda.

Ronda at night.

Plaza de España— Ronda’s modern ide of the gorge.

Posted on June 12, 2014July 6, 2014 by Jenn 3

Of Hammams, Ports and Fish Markets

In a room, “Careless Whisper” played in the background, hot water ran from a faucet onto a pail, steaming the room. On a bench in one side of the room, I sat and waited.

Soon after, a lady entered and impassively poured hot water over me; I shivered at first then felt the water soothingly eased the fatigue away. She asked if I could bear the heat. “Oh, no problem there.” I thought. Then she soaped every part of me, my hair included (I worried about how it would turn out sans conditioner). She left, came back 15 minutes later, started scrubbing, scrubbing until I can feel dead skin rubbing against my body. And when she poured water on me again, the soap and dead skin washed off, I felt the difference. My skin and hair, they were silky smooth. “Can I buy some of that soap, please?”

A Berber massage followed after and for an hour, I was in dreamland. This has always been my gauge of a good massage but how am I getting my money’s worth by not feeling every knead and every rub? I ask myself all the time. I love a good scrub every so often and this, I promise, is the bomb. If I had another day to spare, I’d do it again even if I’ll have to listen to George Michael all over again.

And even if a real hammam this is not, I appreciated the experience and wished I had found the time to go to a real one, perhaps in Fes.

essaouira

But Essaouira is as good a place, its rugged charm and relaxed atmosphere offers relief from the bustle of the bigger cities. Read: a good place to chill. Our last leg in exotic Morocco was spent in the coastal town west of Marrakech just a three hour bus ride away.

Place Moulay, the main town square near the waterfront.

It’s a hidden gem with its windswept beach, open air feel and hip vibe. A wonderful refresher from the dark, crowded alleyways of Fes and Marrakech.

Behind the 18th century sea walls are artists’ enclaves, Thuya wood workshops, and bright, quiet alleyways.

Ranked as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the medina is gorgeous and peaceful.

Although the alleyways around the Kasbah have already quite a few souvenir shops, it is still a market town

where rural Berbers is still seen to hawk their wares.

The streets are full of people selling things from vegetables to DVDs. And in one of these stores, we found some great CD of Gnaoua music.

Tall towers bordered with cannons still define the perimeter of the old town and spending

fortified walls

time within its well-preserved ramparts will take you back to when the town was still called Mogador.

The smell of freshly grilled sardines and lobsters will draw you to the town’s famous fish market.

Known for its outstanding fresh seafood,

it is a great place to enjoy a few bottles of beer, soak up the sun and people watch

while your order of the choicest catches grill to perfection.

Essaouira (pronounced: essa weera) has a beautiful port down by the harbor.

The Skala du Port offers a picturesque view of the fishing port with many shades of blue – blue skies, blue sea, blue and white architecture,

blue boats huddled against each other, some still unloading their catches for the day, which they will bring ashore to sell in the fish market.

After my visit to the hammam, we spent the rest of the morning on a rooftop café overlooking the fort and the sea—

an excellent place to relish our last days in Morocco, to cap the trip.

Posted on May 5, 2014May 6, 2014 by Jenn 6

Experience Historic Marrakech

“Alahu Akbar, god is great, come and pray,” an imam calls to the neighborhood over a loud-speaker, a familiar background noise by now. In a different light, tradesmen standing outside his store enthusiastically calls for attention to sell with “Konichiwa,” “Ni Haw,” or a simple “Hello.”

The medina, albeit still a maze, is not as intimidating as the one in Fes. Weaving through the wider (relative to Fes’) streets,

leather-goods

I breathe in an assortment of aromas, the whiff of floral scent of potpourri; the intense smell of mix spices; the fragrance of shredded wood; the distinct odor of leather.

I notice that, in contrast to Fes, the medina is packed with shops intended for tourists. Though having earned the reputation of being ruthless shopkeepers, I saw them as affable to foreigners often calling out a “Where you from?” and returning an “Ah Philippine, welcome to Morocco!”

Adding to this are tout craftsmen who invite curious people like us to be entertained, at the very least – I picked up a few of his merchandise. 🙂

Atlas-mountains

Marrakech also known as the “Red City” is a major city of Morocco, north of the foothills of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains.

The city surrounded by blush colored walls, initially a fortress and a symbol of power, was constructed in the 12th century, the bricks used is a mixture of red mud and water from the Hazou plains.

The city is divided into two distinct parts – the medina and the new European modern district called Gueliz or Ville Nouvelle.

Shops in Ville Nouvelle

This post will be all about the historic city, its market and its famous square. Get lost in the narrow, labyrinth streets of this ancient rose-hued city and let it take you back in time.

Djemaa el-Fna

It is said that the minaret of Koutoubia mosque is the heart of Marrakech, but the soul of the city lies just 200 meters away, in the city’s market square and forum that has been in existence since its foundation.

Part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, it owes its fame to its size, its unique atmosphere, and for bringing history to life daily.

A medieval circus of musicians, dancers, snake charmers, story tellers… share the square with the fruit and juice stands.

Chaotic yet in tune with the din of drumbeats and enthusiastic hollers.

extort

The way to experience it is to be among it all but the best way, I found out, is to watch the hustle of activities and be entertained by Djemaa el-Fna’s daily performers from any of the peripheral cafes and restaurants’ upper terrace.

It will be a show you don’t want to miss.

The show doesn’t peak until sundown when the square has a different life. Rows of street stalls under giant white tents are set up each night not only for the tourists but are, in fact, local food jaunts, as well.

Food is prepared hot and fresh along the countless stalls serving authentic favorites one must have when in Morocco. Head out one night and eat like the locals do and be serenaded with the sounds of live Moroccan music. Troupes of Andalusian or Gnaoua musicians perform as part of a dinner show around the square.

If the confusion seems to be overwhelming, look for small eateries serving these sandwiches they call bocadios.

bocadios

Amazing stuff found in the corners of the medina away from the disarray – it helps though if you can speak Moroccan or French.

And just outside, a lady sells wonderful Moroccan sweets. Perfect for dessert.

Or escape to an evening of belly dancing, for a different kind of entertainment.

The proper way to pour Moroccan mint tea, as performed by our very gracious waiter.

Wander and get lost around the endless maze of souks

Marrakech has the largest traditional market in Morocco and it is so easy to spend your dirham at the seemingly endless maze of souks inside the medina.

A network of souks begins on the north edge of Djemaa el-Fna and ends at the Ben Youssef Madrasa, comprising of alleyways of local shops full of character.

The further in you venture, the more fascinating they become from souks touting everything to the (more) sedate choice boutiques.

Find Berber carpets, pick up wood carvings, try on djellabas and babouches,

or merely listen to herbalists sell you miracle cures for the aging, wander and get lost, then get help from a bunch of boys playing in the street… all these are part of the fun when exploring Marrakech’s medieval souks and winding streets.

Do all these because if you have not gotten lost, if teenagers have not offered to help you find your way out, if they didn’t hassle you for a tip, if you have not been greeted and lured by jovial merchants in five different languages, you have not experienced Marrakech.

Useful Info:

(Belly Dancing Show)

Restaurant Dar Essalam

170 Riad Zitoun Kedim

For Reservations: 212 (0) 5 24 44 35 20

Les Terrasses de l’Alhambra

3 Place Jemaa El Fna, Medina

212 (0) 5 24 23 75 70

Posted on March 16, 2014March 18, 2014 by Jenn 8

Meet Adam

Credits: Quickpage created by Reeta Treat using “4Ever” collaborative kit created for JessicaSprague.com

A stocky young man with glasses, wearing a baseball cap, leather jacket and track pants, Adam is not the typical Moroccan you see walking around the medina. He talks with an American twang. It is because although born in Morocco, he and his siblings grew up in Canada, Adam explains as he leads us to a beautiful riad he calls home. He runs the riad that he renovated with his parents when they decided to go back home to Morocco.

Riad Slawi is cozy with 4 rooms (5 actually if you count Adam’s room on the ground floor) tastefully designed in classic Moroccan fashion.

Typical of riads, it has a (well-lit) courtyard where we were served traditional, homemade breakfasts.

But what I love best about the house is this stylish yet cozy sitting lounge where I would read and write in my journal on down time.

Hands down my favorite home in Morocco.

Famished from travelling all day, we asked Adam where we could get some local street food. He walked us back to the entrance of the medina and brought us to a hole in a wall where we had some awesome kebab.

hole-in-a-wall-eatery

Surrounded by local folks, we sat on stools vacated by a group of teens and heartily ate the grilled beef, lamb and chicken Adam ordered for us.

kebab

This is what I call an awesome welcome to Marrakech.

The guidebooks and people we meet along the way were not remiss in cautioning us of touts, hustlers, scammers, etc.

Adam, however, more than cleared its reputation. He graciously offered to buy train tickets to Tangiers for us, even booked us a hotel near the train station, He allowed us to leave our bags with him while we spent 2 days in Essaouira, and arranged to have us picked up at the bus station when we returned. His kind certainly makes up for all the Saids of Morocco. Such a gracious host and a real darling, I must say.

Useful Info

Riad Slawi

92 Derb Almed el Borj

Sidi Ben Slimane, Kaa Sou

+212 524 37 7967

Posted on February 22, 2014March 3, 2014 by Jenn 2

An Outing Outside of Fes: Volubilis

It seats on top of some of the most fertile land in the Middle Atlas only 5 kilometers away from Moulay Idriss, situated near Meknes between Fes and Rabat. A site so unexpected, truth to tell.

This Roman ruins consist of no more than half of the original town, but the well-defined remains of its walls,

its intact and intricate mosaics, and the foundation of buildings

destroyed by a massive earthquake sometime in the 18th century has earned recognition by the UNESCO as an ancient Roman site that houses extensive ruins dating back over 2,000 years.

The Mauritanian capital became an important outpost of the Roman Empire and was adorned with many fine buildings. Already a thriving town, Volubilis grew rapidly under the Roman rule from the 1st century AD onwards.

Olive trees still grace the land.

Grains and olive oils, produced in the fertile lands of this province were exported to Rome as well as wild animals for gladiatorial spectacles, contributing to the town’s wealth and prosperity. The last stop of the Roman Imperial roads that went across France, Spain and down to Morocco’s northern city of Tangiers,

Volubilis is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a larger Roman colonial town on the fringe of the empire. Its structure comparable to other Roman ruins along the Mediterranean.

Many, including us, travel to Volubilis to explore the sites’ historical significance. Amongst the ruins, visitors can see a range of public buildings, olive mills, houses, and temples.

And because Morocco is a country of mosaic, the rather well-preserved mosaics from the ruins are considered among the finest in existence.

From the entrance, one can appreciate the green plateau that Volubilis seats on,

and when one reaches the site, fabulous views of the Rif Mountains and its surround greets.

So picturesque, Volubilis is picture perfect at any angle. Here’s more of the ruins:

Posted on January 9, 2014January 9, 2014 by Jenn 5

Meandering Through Old Fes

You hear the bangs of coppersmiths in the labyrinth souks combined with the beat and clangs of Moroccan music and the constant calls to prayers,

add to that the intoxicating smells of fruits, spices, fresh innards and dung,

then you see the chaos of men pushing wheelbarrows, children playing and

donkeys transporting people and things, and not to mention the vibrant colors of rugs, potteries, spices… all happening simultaneously. The old city of Fes stimulates all the senses.

Rashid, our guide picked us up right after breakfast at Dar Labchara. To discover the city, an official guide is essential.

Ours took us around the medina, passing narrow alleys housing hundreds of merchants and craftsmen selling an assortment of products from dates to musical instruments.

Fes el Bali (Fes the old) is our baptism of fire into an exotic medieval world. Not much seemed to have changed within this walled city with over 9,000 alleyways.

Fes el Bali is the old medina where most cultural sights are located; its labyrinth of narrow winding alleys is almost impossible to negotiate without getting lost.

It is a car-free urban space and a UNESCO World Heritage Site that spans 1,300 years of Moroccan heritage. It is the central business where 150,000 people living inside the wall – a cocktail of Berbers, Arabs, and Africans in hooded djellaba cloaks, red tarboosh hat they call fez and open heel babouche slippers – come and go, much like it was 1,300 years ago.

Following Rashid, we found ourselves in the market staring at a camel’s head,

drooling over a variety of Moroccan food specialties, admiring vegetables I don’t get to buy in my part of the world, and devouring some beautiful, crunchy strawberries in season.

Chaotic, overwhelming, stimulating, similar, in a certain way, to our wet market yet distinctly Moroccan in every way.

Morocco is a shopper’s delight and weaving through the maze like narrow lanes led us to various outdoor bazaars called souks.

They consist of tiny stalls displaying objects ranging from colorful scarves to buckets of olives. It is an integral part of the medina. It is where the locals buy their essentials.

A stand making bread

Each Moroccan town has its unique souk quarter displaying some of the fine Moroccan ornaments and crafts. In larger cities like Fes or Marrakech, there are “specialty” souks of all kinds –

the spice souk, the carpenter’s souk, the leather souk, the slipper souk, the dyer’s souk… all within a bigger souk. At every turn, we found ourselves in a new souk typically named after what they are selling.

One such souk was at the Seffarine Square. A delightful square that is the center of Fes’ copperware trade surrounded by artisans hammering sheets of metal into shape: huge cauldrons, kettles, pots, plates and the likes.

On one side lay the Kairaouine library, on the other, the Seffarine Madrasa. The open space is a refreshing break from the confining tight corners of the medina.

Built in AD857, the University of al-Karaouine is perhaps the oldest university in the world.

Not open to non-muslim, we had to content ourselves with viewing its beautiful architecture from the entrance. Rashid took a shot from my camera for a peek at one of the dozen horseshoe arches in the mihrab (prayer niche).

A better view of the university can be had at any rooftop balcony nearby.

Rashid then lead us to another lovely square where you will find the Fondouk el Nejjarine.

The beautifully restored building used to be a fondouk or a caravanserai, a roadside inn built to shelter men, goods and animals along ancient caravan routes.

It is today a museum of wooden arts and crafts. It has a nice little rooftop café boasting of outstanding views of the city.

A visit to Fes will not be complete without seeing a tannery. And at the Chounara Tannery, the smell of lye, acidic pigeon excrements and dyes drifts around the rooftop balcony, we were given sprigs of mint to mask the stench.

The view from the balcony allows for a site that has not changed since the 11th century –

workers balancing between stone vessels arranged like honeycombs filled with vibrant dyes. They soak the hides in the acidic solution and then transfers them to another vat containing dyes such as henna, saffron, or mint.

It is a rare visual spectacle and experience not to be missed at any cost.

Now purchasing high quality leather products produced from these tanneries is another thing. In fact, shopping in Morocco is an entertaining experience worthy of a post all its own.

Posted on November 26, 2013March 16, 2014 by Jenn 12

A Dar in Fes

Credits: Papers by Gwenipooh Designs and Graham Like the Cracker from Scrapmatters’ Life Little Surprises Kit; Elements by Designs by Tater from Scrapmatters’ LLS Kit and journaling snippets by Crystal Wilkerson

Founded 1,200 years ago in the northern part of Morocco, Fes has remained to be the country’s cultural and spiritual capital. It is home to the oldest university in the world and its medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Fes has the best-preserved old city in the Arab World and to spend a few nights inside those walls is to, in some way, experience its unique culture.

“When you reach the train station, please call this number”, Said (Sa-eed) advised on his email. “A handsome young man will meet you at the bank outside Bab Boujeloud.” – the main and most attractive point of entry into the medina, Fes el Bali.

A petit taxi outside the train station, he advised, would cost 10 Dh to get us to the main gate. And true enough; handsome young man introduced himself as Ibrahim.

Decorated with blue (color of Fes) zellij tile on the outside and green (color of Islam) on the other side, the gate leads to the Bab Boujeloud Square.

Meandering through the narrow alleys teeming with people, restaurants and lodgings called riads and dars, provided a perfect primer of Fes. The passages taper as we marched deeper into the medina, the maze of corridors begin to confuse. We finally reached a wooden arched door in an uncommonly narrow lane. Ibrahim unlocked the door and welcomed us into a world bursting with exotic eastern charm. Dars and riads are traditional homes unique to Morocco.

Entirely closed on the outside, the dar’s foyer serves as gatekeeper that led to an inner courtyard of traditional zellij (small colored tiles) floors, exquisite Moroccan design and furnishings with touches of deep red.

The courtyard is the center of the house and serves as seating and dining area. The second floor balcony overlooks it.

A burly man, Ibrahim’s uncle, Said warmly welcomed us to Fes. He owns Dar Labchara, a lovely house he inherited from his father. While we sipped tea and recharged from the four-hour journey, he gave us a rundown of what to expect of Fes.

We met a guy on the train also named Said, we told him, exceptionally friendly and extremely eager to help. “You are the 3rd guests who met him”, he said. “Does he wear a black leather jacket?” Said asked. He revealed that one of his guests decided to pay the factory (he said he owned) a visit and found that the Said from the train isn’t quite what he presented himself to be, pretending to own a ceramic factory when he only earns a commission for bringing “tourists” there. Not exactly harmful, but neither was he truthful. And with that, he candidly warned of fraudsters roaming the narrow alleyways of the medina. Warnings of this manner I came across while researching for this trip, I was still shocked, however, to have met one so early in the trip.

For a traditional Moroccan dinner, Ibrahim pointed us to the nearby Restaurant Palais des Merinides, assigning Mohammed, a staff, to bring and fetch us after. Beautiful interiors. As the culinary center of Morocco, my expectations were high. Maybe too high because the food was actually decent but impressed we were not. The Pastilla Fassia (chicken pastille) was flavorful and memorable, the play in sweet and savory appealed to me but not to everyone in the group.

The Mechoui (roasted mutton) was not as tender as I wished it to be. They say that many restaurants like this pay commission for sending guests over, I hope this wasn’t the case with our dar.

Breakfast, however, was a different story. It more than made up for last night’s lackluster effort to wow.

The variety of breads alone – flatbread (khobz), pan-fried bread (harcha), pan-fried pancakes (msemen), a more traditional looking pancake (meloui)…

were enough to overlook the lack of any meat in the morning. To complement the breads were cheese, butter, jams and honey, fried eggs served in a pool of olive oil seasoned with cumin and salt.

One morning, we were served a traditional soup called bessara. It is pureed beans served with olive oil and cumin. Usually eaten at breakfast and a prefered soup during Ramadan. Tastes like pea soup with a strong olive oil taste that leaves a slight bitter aftertaste, which quite frankly, appealed to me.

From the street, the houses in the medina is hidden by a high wall with a door somewhere, giving no clue as to what lays beneath. But once inside, one is transported into a remarkable intricately decorated palace. Fes, in a similar fashion, reveals its charm unexpectedly, its mysteries difficult to comprehend but once revealed, opens up to a brilliant world within. The key is to run straight in.

Useful Info:

Dar Labchara

8 Derb Lebchara, Souiket

Ben Safi Talaa Sghira

Fes, Morocco

Phone: +212 535 741 306

Mobile: +212 662 347 547

Email: contact@darlabchara.com

Posted on November 7, 2013November 8, 2013 by Jenn 9

Kamikochi: A glimpse of the Japanese Alps

Credits: Template by Jen Caputo; Papers: Designs by Sarah Bennett, Erica Zane, Gwenipooh Designs. Haynay Designs.

Sometimes a change in plans is a good thing. We arrived in Hirayu Onsen early. Our room wasn’t ready yet. “You may want to go to Kamikochi instead”, the front desk clerk recommended to us after she discouraged a trip to the Shin-Hotaka Ropeway, a two-stage tramway that climbs alongside the Hotaka Mountain Range. She informed us that it had been raining so the visibility will be bad. “It will also be very slippery”, she added. We took her word, left our bags with them and headed to the bus station after lunch.

Long dubbed as the Japanese Alps, Kamikochi is a pristine mountain valley in the Nagano Prefecture, seated at the foot of the Hida Mountains, deep in the Chukusangaku National Park where the Azusa River flows some 1,500 meters above sea level.

It is known for its splendid landscape and various hiking trails. As private vehicles have been prohibited in the park since 1996, only buses or taxis are allowed,

Kamikochi has become one of the best-protected natural areas of Japan despite the droves of tourists and hikers that flock there.

The scenic bus ride from Hirayu Onsen to the Kamikochi parking lot took all of 30 minutes with a brief stop at Taisho Pond for those wanting to hike to the center of Kamikochi. Since it was drizzling and freezing and we weren’t in proper attire, not to mention that we only had half a day, we passed.

trail-from-taisho

It is the best way to enjoy a day in Kamikochi actually, and on hindsight, I am not sure we made the right decision to forego the hike.

From the parking lot, we took our time and marveled at the wondrous views of some of the tallest peaks of Central Japan’s Northern Alps as we followed the trail to the Kappabashi Bridge.

This wooden suspension bridge is a symbol of Kamikochi with the most gathering of visitors.

From the bridge, one can see the surrounding mountains, Nishihotakadake, Okuhotakadake, Myojindake, and the active volcano Yakaedake – all towering summits over 3,000 meters above sea level.

Though we barely scratched the surface with just half a day, less actually if you take out the time we spent indoors to warm ourselves with coffee and dessert, Kamikochi has instantly become a personal favorite, and I wouldn’t mind spending a few days wandering around should there be a next time.

So sometimes a change in plans is indeed a good thing.

Posted on July 31, 2013July 31, 2013 by Jenn 7

my adventure odyssey

travel tales, gustatory delights and beyond

my adventure odyssey

Tag: Top Picks

How the Andalusian Horses Dance

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Andalusia’s White Town Jaunts

Do you see the eagle perched on the craggy edge of the limestone?

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Magnificent Town of Ronda

More of Ronda through my lens:

On the Puente Nuevo

Plaza del Toro — Ronda’s bullring known to be the world’s first purpose-built bullring. The first fight in this bullring took place in 1785 with the famous matador, Pedro Romero and Pepe Hillo.

Iglesia de Sta. Maria la Mayor

Ronda is symbolic of Andalusia’s white town

On the bridge facing the south side of the gorge, La Ciudad and the heart of Moorish Ronda.

Ronda at night.

Plaza de España— Ronda’s modern ide of the gorge.

Of Hammams, Ports and Fish Markets

Place Moulay, the main town square near the waterfront.

Experience Historic Marrakech

Shops in Ville Nouvelle

Djemaa el-Fna

The proper way to pour Moroccan mint tea, as performed by our very gracious waiter.

Wander and get lost around the endless maze of souks

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Meet Adam

Credits: Quickpage created by Reeta Treat using “4Ever” collaborative kit created for JessicaSprague.com

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An Outing Outside of Fes: Volubilis

Olive trees still grace the land.

Meandering Through Old Fes

A stand making bread

A Dar in Fes

Credits: Papers by Gwenipooh Designs and Graham Like the Cracker from Scrapmatters’ Life Little Surprises Kit; Elements by Designs by Tater from Scrapmatters’ LLS Kit and journaling snippets by Crystal Wilkerson

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Kamikochi: A glimpse of the Japanese Alps

Credits: Template by Jen Caputo; Papers: Designs by Sarah Bennett, Erica Zane, Gwenipooh Designs. Haynay Designs.