Month: March 2010

Forceful Cascades of Lake Sebu

Hikong Bente (Falls #2)

Two of the seven waterfalls were the most accessible while the others have yet to have access trails.  Developed a few years ago through the funding of the local government with help from New Zealand, Hikong Alu (falls #1) and Hikong Bente (falls #2) today only requires about 30 minutes of walk – although I do not remember it to be a strenuous hike 10 years ago.  Often dubbed as the “Summer Capital” of Southern Philippines, the development of the seven waterfalls is part of a bigger plan to capitalize on the tourism potentials of Lake Sebu and to turn it into a major destination in Central Mindanao – not exactly the most popular in terms of tourism due to the poor press releases of its neighboring provinces and the mere fact that it is in Mindanao scares off a lot of tourists, foreign and locals alike.  So the efforts of the local government to focus on its beauty are commendable.

Two passengers and a driver in one motorcycle   😯

The only means of public transport around Lake Sebu is through motorcycles or what they call habal-habals.   From our longhouse, it took us 15 minutes perhaps to arrive at what looked like an entrance to a park.  P20 was all that’s needed to enter.  The focus of the development was mainly on road development and the establishments of resort facilities.  Save for the inner roads, it was a pretty smooth haba-habal ride along the main highway.

A short walk from the entrance is Hikong Alu, the first falls cascading down the jagged landscape of the lush forest of Lake Sebu.

A trail on the right leads to a natural pool where one can enjoy the beauty up close.

There are two options to get to the 2nd falls, Hikong Bente.  One can choose to zip down through a recently developed zipline.  The queue was long so we chose to walk.  The walk through the verdant forest is made easy with the stoned steps established.

What greeted us was a grander falls with powerful cascading water that leaves a misty atmosphere.   Apparently the largest of the seven.

The ragged rock wall etched through the years

by the constant mist from the falls

has become favorite playgrounds.

One could either swim or do as I did – simply admire the beauty that surrounds.

Stream as seen from the entrance

Nature tops the list of potent tranquilizers and stress reducers.  The mere sound of moving water has been shown to lower blood pressure.

~Patch Adams

Scenic Sunday

Posted on by Jenn 13

Lake Sebu Revisited

It’s been 10 years since my last visit to this enchanting town where T’boli’s hail.

A T’boli lady in full regalia

I remember the highland tribes for their colorful costumes and intricate beadworks.  And that’s what excites me about this trip.  Revisiting the lake, taking loads of pixes, eating lots of tilapia, shopping for some beadworks were just a few things I looked forward to.

In between General Santos and Lake Sebu is the town of Polomolok.  It is the home of Dole Philippines, the biggest pineapple plantation in the world.

A bag of sliced pineapple for P5 (US$0.10)

And for that reason, we had to stop and get us some pineapples for the road and Lake Sebu.

True to its promise, the pineapples were indeed über sweet.  While at it, we also stopped for a late lunch of

truly tasty and juicy lechon manok (roast chicken).

We arrived shortly before dinner with our host Mayang warmly welcoming us with a bowlful of

boiled camote (sweet potato), tuwal (macopa-looking fruit), suman (rice cake), and native coffee.  Our succulent late lunch didn’t stop us from devouring what was supposed to have been our snack turned starter.

Dinner was a simple yet delicious dish of tilapia in soy sauce set on the floor.  Accommodation whilst in Lake Sebu was a traditional longhouse, Mayang’s home, which she turned into a home-stay.

Photo courtesy of A.Go

Made of rattan, palm leaves, cogon grass and bamboo, the longhouse is devoid of any furniture, the elevated sides serves as the sleeping zone

and the center of the house serves as living/dining area.  The bathroom is an outhouse and bathing under the stars, I found out, is quite liberating albeit not an easy feat.

Due to the altitude of around 1,000m the climate can be cold in December and a taking a bath in cold water with a breeze is not really my thing… I love my hot showers.

I was dead tired from the trip; I hit the sack ahead of everyone else and consequently woke up early enough to catch a glorious sunrise.

Contact Details:

Mayang Todi:
Mobile: +639187671063

Posted on by Jenn 8

Making Good Use of Downtime

We were at the sea area in front of the Macau Tower early to catch the Annual Macau Fireworks Display contest.

Early birds have its drawback… a long wait.  Its reward however outweighs it inconvenience.  Securing good front row seats afforded great captures of the fireworks and these series of shots of the Sai Van Bridge as the sun sets.

Once considered remote from Peninsular Macau, when they were accessible only by small ferries, the islands of Taipa and Coloane have developed as integrated suburbs since being linked to the mainland by 3 bridges.

One of them is Sai Van Bridge, opened in January of 2005.  It is the first cable-stayed bridge in Macau.  The double deck bridge has 6 lanes in the upper deck and 4 at the lower deck.

More of the fireworks in upcoming posts.  For more scenes from around the world click image below.

Scenic Sunday

Posted on by Jenn 8

The Ruins of St. Paul’s (Ruínas de São Paulo)

The sixty-eight granite steps from the square will lead you to a façade of what was once the greatest cathedral in Macau.  Built from 1582-1602 by the Jesuits, the remains of St. Paul’s Cathedral was the largest Catholic Church in Asia at the time.

It is a fine example of Macau’s unique characteristic as a city of Europeans, Chinese and other Asian exchange.  Ruined by fire twice, ravaging the other buildings and destroying the church ad almost all the complex.  From 1990 – 1995 work was carried out to restore the back of the church, turning it into a museum.

Regarded today as the symbol of Macau, St. Paul’s ruins was considered the core area when the historical center of Macau was inscribed on the World Heritage list in 2005.  It is today one of Macau’s most famous landmark where music performances are held regularly.

If you enjoyed these sepia scenes, click image below for more.

Posted on by Jenn 1

Oh Manuel!

It’s a funny thing about life; if you refuse to accept anything but the best, you often get it. – W. Somerset Maughem

Reservations were made and off we went to Taipa to lunch.  Those with insider knowledge or Macanese connections will head to Taipa for some great culinary experience.  Tucked away in a quiet street just on the edge of Taipa Village is one of Macau’s best-kept secret, a homey, welcoming hole in a wall called O’ Manel or more formally known as Manuel Cozinha Portuguesa.  Manuel Pena, a Portuguese and his Chinese wife owns this tiny restaurant that serves fantastic Portuguese food.

In his restaurant, Manuel waits on tables himself, supervises the preparation of the dishes and does the cooking himself, sometimes with the help of his wife.  There are no menus only a blackboard; in it written are the specialties for the day.

Clockwise:  menu board; Manuel Pena and his Pata Negra; Caramel Creme; Roasted Suckling Pig; one order of Pata Negra, sliced.

For starters, we had slices of Pata Negra (or jamon iberico in Spain), a favorite since I first tried it in Seville years ago.  So memorable this Pata Negra was during my first visit to this restaurant some 3 years back, I came back with that in mind.  Fresh fish and shellfish are found on virtually every Portuguese menu and it is not surprising that we were served Garlic Prawns and a wonderfully citrus Clams in lemon sauce with a hint of coriander.  Roast suckling pigs, popular in the north of Portugal came highly recommended.  We were ecstatic that it was perfectly roasted with skin that crackled so loud we ordered one more.

We washed all these down with a glass or two of this lovely Portuguese Merlot and capped this splendid meal with a most typical Portuguese dessert, Caramel Cream.  Mmmm…  overindulged, most definitely.

The restaurant when we entered

In less than thirty minutes

This small casual restaurant with its limited number of tables fills up quickly so book ahead.

Manuel Cozinha Portuguesa
Rua de Femão Mendes Pinto, N90 R/C
Taipa, Macau
For reservations call:  (853) 28827571 or 28825811

Posted on by Jenn 7

The Real Macau

Beaches, ancestral Chinese villages and forested hills with nature trails… traditional countryside still exists in the islands of Taipa and Coloane.

Here in the narrow streets and alleys with multi-hued buildings with peeling paints and stained walls lives the real Macau contrary to just a few meters away where The Venetian Macau Resort and Hotel stands.

Oblivious to the developments that will eventually comprise 14 resorts, the locals still while away time, chatting on benches around the square.

Although this rural part of Macau is slowly transforming into one of the biggest tourist destination in Asia, there still remains a section that is evidence to Macau’s centuries-old cultural heritage.  A quaint village on what was once Taipa Island’s southern shoreline.

Pak Tai Temple — one of the biggest temple of Taipa

Taipa Village or Tamzhai (in Cantonese) is still made up of Chinese shophouses, Portuguese-style offices, and temples all around.

Incense inside Pak Tai temple

A good place to learn about the history and culture of the area as there are plenty of them to explore.

The museum of Taipa & Coloane History is a comprehensive exhibit of historical relics unearthed on Coloane,

The glass floor to view the relics from the basement

the stone architectural remains in the basement of the former Island Council Building.

A few minutes walk to the east from the village is a waterfront area where remains a superb old colonial promenade, Avenida de Praia, complete with original houses.  The Taipa House Museum (or the Casas- Museu da Taipa)  shows a number of 20th century houses restored to depict details of turn-of-the-century domestic life of the Macanese families, highly religious, well-to-do but not extremely wealthy.

The Macanese House is one of macao’s typical houses in colonial style reminiscent of a period of Portuguese splendor characterized by frequent influx of the Portuguese, British, Mandarins and merchants in this tiny territory.

Carmo Church — 0ne of the eight views of Macau

Although Taipa’s northern shore is hardly worth a stop now, Taipa Village on the southern shore and Avenida de Praia is definitely a pleasant walk where faded mansions and wooden benches seem frozen in time.

Scenic Sunday

Posted on by Jenn 6

Five Reasons Why…

You should try Whitewater Rafting at least once in your life.

Credits:  Bannerwoman Designs Worn, Folded Edges, Judy Meibusch Doodle Dot elements, LivEdesigns SSunFun Alpha

Ever since my first rafting experience in 1999, I was hooked (see here, here and here).  I can’t count the number of times I’ve rafted the Chico, after all as they say, you never run the same river twice.  And I felt it time to share this exhilarating experience with my team.

So for 3 days in January, we found ourselves in Tuguegarao slaving away, devising strategies for the year

with a little bit of team building on the side.

Then on day 3, we spent an adrenalin-filled day at the Chico River in Kalinga.  Here are insights gathered from this experience.

It’s Liberating

When was the last time you’ve tried something at least once in your life?  I am one to try almost anything (I say almost because I have yet to convince myself about bungee jumping) at least once.  Whitewater rafting may not be for everyone but you’ll never know unless you’ve tried it.

I’ve rafted with many first timers with sedentary lifestyles through the years and as often as not, they at the very least, had a blast and in numerous occasions, a wild side they never knew they had is kindled.

Anton Carag, charismatic mover and shaker of whitewater rafting since 1998 at the Chico

Many among my team were apprehensive before the run and listened intently to Anton Carag lecturing on proper paddling techniques, what to do when one falls off and how to get back on the raft.

Doing a Hi-Five for a job well done

I saw how their fears transformed to confidence after the first few rapids.  They started to have fun.

Some even enjoyed the falls, bringing home stories of how they survived it etc.  It also helps to know that two internationally recognized wilderness specialists trained Anton and his team of guides some 10 years ago.

It Fosters Team Spirit

Rafting only works if everyone works as a team.  Listen to your leader and follow exactly the commands.  If the team fails to act as one, the raft may capsize.  If you’re not prepared to drink gallons of water, you probably don’t want this.   It’s also a hassle getting back on the raft and if the water’s low, you will most likely be going home with bumps and bruises as a remembrance from the river.  But hey, isn’t that proof of that adventurous spirit you thought you never had?  So listen to your guide and be in sync with your teammates.

It’s Actually Safe

First of all, the guides (mostly natives of Kalinga) know the river like the back of their hands.  And to reiterate, top-notched, seasoned river guides with international experience trained most of them.  But in case you didn’t follow instructions or to put it nicely — misunderstood the guide’s instructions and you fall off or worse, the whole raft flips, not to worry because the equipments, most especially the vest you are wearing (I can only speak of AEPI’s as I am not familiar with the other outfitters) is US-certified safe.  This means that when you’re under, the vest is buoyant enough to carry you out.  Sometimes with a little help from you, but hey again, sometimes you need to work a little harder eh?

It promotes Eco-tourism

And provides jobs.  Whitewater rafting is part of the new adventure and eco-tourism that the Philippines have to offer.  Most of the guides used are from neighboring communities and the more tourists, more jobs and other business opportunities are not far behind.  It also teaches us to respect and appreciate Mother Nature.

It’s Gorgeous Out There

Spectacular views of the Cordillera Mountains coupled with beautiful riverbanks and clear waters (not always the case though) surrounds the whole stretch of the run.  Unspoiled.  Pristine.

Except for raging rapids that never fails to stir up your adrenalin, the only other sounds you hear are chirpings of birds and the flow of the river.  Serenity in a most natural setting.

Excellent Food at Casa Carag

The 6th reason why you should try whitewater rafting with AEPI.  The food is just extraordinary.

Nothing is ordinary, from the longganisa, Salinas and hot native chocolate for breakfast, to the local Ibanag dishes such as their pinakbet and inabraw.  It’s all good!

So, at the first chance of rain (which is sadly a long way off), book a package with AEPI and experience the ultimate adventure of your life.  Season starts in August and ends in February.

*  All photos at the river courtesy of AEPI.

Contact Details:
Anton Carag, Jr.
Mobile:  (63)917-532-7480
Landline: (6378)844-1298
Email:  aepi@whitewater.ph; anton@whitewater.ph; whitewater1ph@yahoo.com

Posted on by Jenn 11

Ilocos UNESCO Pride

Three UNESCO World Heritage Site found in one region, that’s right, all found in Ilocos – Vigan City, Santa Maria Church both in Ilocos Sur and Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte.  That’s two out of four Baroque Churches in the Philippines inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage list.  Can’t get any cultural than that — a perfect post to end this road trip series.  So without further ado:

Santa Maria Church

Along the western coast of the Ilocos Region, an hour drive south of Vigan is the town of Sta. Maria.  Somehow the Spaniards like building churches on top of hills because again on top of a hill overlooking the town, the blue sea and the verdant fields nearby is another World Heritage Site, the massively baroque Sta. Maria Church.  Built in 1769, this church was used as a fortress during the 1896 Philippine Revolution.  The church’s façade is not impressive but more striking and quite unique is the tower that is slightly tilted.

St. Augustine Church

Is also popularly known as Paoay Church visited by many due to its interesting architecture.  A unique example of Filipino architecture from the Spanish period, the main distinction though are its buttresses which supports its walls, 3 meters thick, from earthquake.  For that reason, it was cited as one of the most outstanding “earthquake baroque” structure.  Aside from its function however, I think the buttresses add a very Asian touch, almost reminding me of Balinese architecture.  The church is an example of east meets west architecture (Filipino, Asian and Spanish) which is uniquely Filipino, I think.

I hope you enjoyed Ilocos as much as I have.

Posted on by Jenn 2

Keeping Watch Through the Years

Just a stone’s throw away from Vigan is an old bell tower standing alone on a hill watching guard over the town of Bantay.

It is without a doubt one of the most dramatic belfries in the region (and one of my favorite) owing to a superb view of  the mountains of Abra

and exquisite sunsets bringing forth a golden charm to the brick and slime walls.

Also used as watchtower for invading enemy forces during World Wars I and II, it was constructed separately, as many Spanish churches are in Ilocos, from its main church, St. Augustine Parish Church, also known as Bantay Church.

Built in 1590 with design reminiscent of the Old Spanish architecture using local indigenous materials like brick and slime.

Damaged during World War II and was restored in the 1950s in neo-gothic design as seen today.

Scenic Sunday

Posted on by Jenn 10