Alaskeros in Juneau

Juneau surges during the summer with thousands of cruise ship passengers, a significant source of income for the capital of Alaska.  Twelve decades ago the young city was swamped with prospectors.  Juneau was founded as a gold-mining camp in 1880, Filipinos already worked in the gold mines, mostly as ore sorters, it was however the canneries that drew the largest numbers of Filipinos to the territory.

Between 1878 and 1949, 134 canneries were built throughout the region employing workers from diverse ethnic backgrounds, including Chinese, Filipino, Japanese and Alaska Native.  Women and children worked in the canneries while the men fish.  Changing US immigration laws brought many more Filipinos to Alaska after 1922.  They were encouraged to go to the United States by industries seeking low-wage workers at a time when Chinese and Japanese immigration was being restricted.  All they needed was a birth certificate and a steamship ticket because until 1935, the Philippines was an American territory.

During the 1920s and 1930s, Filipino laborers spent their summers working in fish canneries and on farms in the West Coast during the rest of the year.  They were known as “schoolboys” as many of them earned the money that enabled them to pursue their education.

These Filipino seasonal migrant workers in the US are also known as Alaskeros.   They were instrumental in the formation of the first Filipino-led union in the US.  The Filipino cannery workers dominated the work force and during the depression, wages from unskilled jobs dropped by 40% hence the union.  In 1938 they were successful in abolishing the repressive contractor system that prevailed in the canneries.

Filipinos Today

At the height of the salmon cannery industry, there were about 9,000 Filipino workers in the territory, today the Filipino population number at least 13,000 evident not only in the Manila Square in downtown Juneau where a bust of our national hero, Jose Rizal lies but also in the food.

Highly recommended by the bartenders of our cruise ship is a stall selling Filipino style Barbecue and we had to have some.

The verdict…  unquestionably Pinoy BBQ.

Mendenhall Glacier

Credits:  Template by Crystal; Eyelet Twill in Natural by K Pertiet;  Solid Paper by J Crowley both from J Sprague’s Grand Intentions Kit.

Alaska’s most famous river of ice is attracting a lot of curiosity from visitors from around the world.  Fed from an icefield high above Juneau, Mendenhall Glacier is about 13 miles long, by no means the largest of Alaska’s numerous glaciers but perhaps the most visited given that it is only 13 miles from downtown Juneau and is accessible by bus and a mile-long walk.  One can also opt to bike.

As with 90 percent of Alaska’s glaciers, Mendenhall is shrinking at an increasingly rapid rate.  A sign that the world we live in is changing faster than we ever imagined.

Visit Little Red House and enjoy the many wonderful mosaics.

A Glimpse at Alaska’s Wild Side

Scenic Sunday

The best way to see Alaska’s wildlife is on the water, so we were told.  We had a simple goal – to search for, view and learn about a variety of North America’s wildlife.  We therefore plied the island-studded waters of Stephen’s Passage inside a warm, comfortable cabin on-board a water jet-powered catamaran, specially designed for wildlife viewing. Stephen’s Passage is renowned as a favored summer feeding ground for humpback whales.  We decided to go for it in Juneau because the operators guaranteed whale sightings or a $100 refund.  Sounds like a winning proposition to me.  And whales we did see + some seals to boot.

We saw graceful and magnificent whales tail lobbing – raising their flukes out of the water and then slapping it on the surface — blowing and perhaps even singing, a most interesting behavior of the whales, a naturalist on-board explains.  I couldn’t hear because it was too cold and windy for me so I stayed indoors the whole time, taking photos through the large windows surrounding the whole cabin.

Behavior and Habitat

The naturalist explains further that humpbacks are a baleen whale and a rorqual whale that sings amazing songs, long and complex, which they believe is used for mating.  They are acrobats of the ocean, breaching and slapping the water.  They live in pods (a social group of whales) and these mammals travel a great distance to take advantage of the best breeding grounds and feeding spots.  North Pacific humpbacks, for example, mate and give birth in Hawaii and then travel to Alaska each summer to feed.

Endangered

Humpbacks are among the most endangered whales and fewer than 10% of their original population remains.  However in recent years, humpbacks have been observed more and more frequently feeding along the California coast.

Harbor Seals

Normally hauling out on rocks, these seals seemed to be enjoying the rest on a buoy.  They often swim quietly along the shore, their round, earless heads just breaking the surface.  Seals depend on a thick layer of body fat for warmth.  Their coat consists of coarse short hairs.  Color varies from blond to nearly black, may are spotted and blotched.

Did you know…

Humpback whales can consume as much as a ton of krill and small fish per day in the summer?

Humpbacks migrate to the nutrient-rich waters of Southeast Alaska in the summer after having fasted all winter.  This intensive feeding builds a thick layer of fat called blubber which stores the nourishment the whales will need in autumn when they return to the warm waters of Hawaii and Mexico to breed.

For more scenes from around the world, go to Scenic Sunday.

Haines

Credits:  Papers – Grand Intentions Kit Stripe paper; Cre8 Mini Kit Blue Solid paper, both by Jessica Sprague;  Overlay – J Crowley Beautiful Evidence Overlay 2

In a town where eagles sometimes outnumber people, it was no surprise to me that there was only 1 restaurant serving lunch that day and it had to be Mexican.  As much as I like experiencing local fares wherever I am, I had to grant A this favor.  He had Mexican (burritos, tacos…) perhaps 15 out of the 17 days he spent on the Colorado River rafting the Grand Canyon, pure torture if you don’t like Mexican all that much.  So he refused to enter no matter how hard I tried luring him with the wonderful smell of carnitas, which I love.  No amount of sweet talk worked so after walking around town looking for another restaurant, I gave in a trekked back to the ship, which in truth had far more choices anyway.  All’s well that ends well.  We spent the rest of the day enjoying the ships amenities… the heated lounge bed at the spa.   😉

Eagles and Muskegs

Our journey continues on to Haines.

And here we went around with a naturalist bringing us through the “Valley of the Eagles” to view Haines’ most popular wildlife, the bald eagle hence the christening.

Powerful spotting scopes afford up close views of the eagle and other wildlife.  One can also take photo through the scope.

Year round resident eagles total approximately 400 but the population swells to at least 4,000 in the fall months of October – December.  More than the 2,400 locals residing in this small town.

We then stopped along the shore of a picturesque mountain lake before walking through an ancient muskeg beneath hemlock and spruce trees.  Coming from the Philippines, I’ve trekked many a tropical rainforest and experiencing the sights, sounds and scents of a temperate rainforest was a morning well spent.

Temperate rainforests are less humid, cooler and has more sunlight coming through making it more pleasant to walk through, to compare with the rainforest I know.

I noticed though that moss and algae covers more grounds and trunks in a temperate forest.

Some wildflower shots around Haines.

Firewood

Nootka Lupine

Chocolate Lily

Halibut on Creek Street

Scenic Sunday

What caught my eye when we got to town from Saxman Village was a lovely row of wooden buildings resting on pilings above Ketchikan creek.   Guess where we headed after the lumberjack show?

Once an infamous “red light district”, the heart of downtown Ketchikan has today turned into galleries and restaurants, mostly original buildings with lots of stories to tell.

One such is Dolly’s House catering once to “gentlemen seeking the company of women”.   😉

Known to sport anglers as a busy place year round for fishing for wild trout, Pacific salmon, and halibut (my favorite).

So, when we spotted Halibut Hole while browsing through shops along the boardwalk, we did not hesitate and went right in for a taste of their famous fish and chips before heading back to our ship.

The halibut, which of course came most highly recommended, was what we had.  We were not disappointed.

Fish so juicy and tender deep-fried in delicious crispy batter.  That + a bowl of clam chowder, and we were a happy pair walking back to the pier.

They also serve salmon, clams and shrimp in the same crispy batter

It was a good “first day” off shore and I can tell you that it just gets better.  So stay tuned!

To see more beautiful scenes from around the world, go to Scenic Sunday.

Halibut Hole
7 Creek St.
(907)225-6152

The Great Alaskan Lumberjacks

Credits:  Frame from House of 3 digital kit by The Design District (Ornate Frame 3); Kraft Paper by JSprague

Lumberjacks are usually referred to loggers from a bygone era before the advent of modern logging equipments.  The inception of the modern lumberjacks started as a competition in old lumber camps to see who the best lumberjacks were.  Today these competitions continue, keeping traditions alive.

Southeast Alaska’s rich logging history comes to life in a thrilling display of nimbleness, energy and power.  A must see when in Ketchikan, we walked a short distance from the pier to a covered grandstand where rugged professional timber athletes competed head to head in events such as speed climbing, ax throwing, chopping and sawing.  Hosted by a very engaging host who referees this riotous competition.  She splits the group in half and assigns each group a team to root for, adding excitement and entertainment to the show.

Watching th0se cute hunks alone make the show worth its US$36.   😛  tee hee!

Head over to The Little Red House for more photo mosaics from all over.

Saxman Village

Scenic Sunday

Credits:  Sunshine Artz template 04, Grand Intention Kit: JSprague Type Red and Yellow Solid papers

The Southernmost sizable city in the state of Alaska is Ketchikan, also known as the salmon capital of the world.  Its economy thrives on tourism and fishing and in the native village of Saxman, tourists flock to view a strand of totem poles some 30-40 feet tall.   Its totem pole park boasts of the single largest collection of totems.

Totem Poles are like billboards, signposts or tombstones, telling stories and honoring heritage.  They used to be mistakenly thought as religious symbols of worships and many were burned as a result.

Good thing original carvers of totem poles still live in the area now known as Alaska’s “Inside Passage” and are members of the Tlingit , Haida and other clans.

In a shed near the village is Tlingit’s famous carver Nathan Jackson.  We got to see his workstation sans the carver.  He is normally there carving but unfortunate for us, he was unavailable at the time of visit.

A Taste of Filipino Hospitality on the High Seas

mwtwhite

Ay Pilipino pala kayo!” (Oh you’re Filipinos!).  A reaction we’d get all the time when A and I would start conversing in Filipino.  You see, A can pass for a Latino and I any Asian origin (Koreans, Japanese or Chinese), thus the reaction.  Always excited to meet “kababayans” (fellow Filipinos or countrymen), I gather owing to homesickness as they have been away from their country for 6 months at the least to up to 2 years, depending on their contract.  They are called Overseas Filipino Workers (OFWs), our country’s new heroes.

Waiters-in-BanffA photo with our servers in Banff

OFWs are Filipinos who are employed in foreign countries to seek better opportunities out of a desire to earn better wages.  The National Statistic Office estimates that the number of Filipinos working abroad has increased by 15% from same period last year.  About 3/4 of OFWs are land based laborers and unskilled workers, which includes domestic helpers, cleaners and manufacturing laborers.  Seafarers (or sea based workers) on the other hand, make up 24% of total OFW deployment and they account for some 20-25% of the world’s seafarers.

“Filipinos are in demand to man ships from luxury cruise ships to giant tankers and container ships.  They are known to exhibit a great ability to learn, to be hardworking and loyal”, according to Pier Luigi Foschi, President and Chief Executive of Costa Crociere Cruises.  “They set a good example for other employees and crew.  They sign up for months at a time and have very little free time”.

GrillingFilipino cooks grilling salmon at the poolside

One feels at home right away at the Ryndam.  From the boiler to the front desk, the poolside to the pantry and the bar to fine dining are Filipinos always ready to serve with a smile.

Roger-at-the-barThat’s Roger, one of the bartenders with his shaker

Hanging out at Crow’s Nest almost every single day of our 7 day stay was made unforgettable due to the many stories told and friendships developed.

bartendersAlways the happy bunch at the Crow’s Nest Bar

The Filipinos comprise perhaps about 30% of the crew at The Ryndam.  Being so much an entertainer at heart, they were given the privilege to entertain the passengers by way of a Filipino Night.

chef-singingHead Chef of the Lido Restaurat by day, singer by night

No longer the cooks, waiters and boiler men, here on stage, they transform into entertainers, well known for their singing prowess and their knack for humor.

tiniklingOur National Dance (I think), the Tinikling

planting-riceDoing the “planting rice” dance

goofingYes… look again… they’re all guys!

Filipino snacks were served right after the show, because I think all the cooks are Filipinos. Tee hee!   🙂  In my opinion, Filipino Night is the Cruise line’s way of honoring the well-loved Filipinos as employee, crew and servers.  And they make me proud to be one of perhaps 6 Filipino passengers aboard The Ryndam at the time.  Mabuhay!

ice-carvingAnd the finale… a demonstration of ice carving… again a Pinoy!

To join in the fun and get to know more worlds, click here.

M/S Ryndam

ryndam-chair

Our means of transport around the inner passages of Alaska and where we were billeted for 7 nights.  It was smooth sailing all the way from Vancouver to Seward.

ms-ryndam

A moderately sized ship that feels cozy and homey.  Far from the humongous cruise ships that looked more like a structure than a ship.

celebretuty-cruise

I however will not comment until I have been in one lest I eat my words.  I never thought I’d be raving, never thought they were my thing but it seemed like the most economical way to get around Alaska.   So I decided to keep an open mind and I’m happy I did.  A wonderful surprise, I’ll say.

deck-6

The Ryndam appealed to me because this 720feet vessel is designed to carry fewer guests and being so provided more space yet cozy enough to get to know some fellow traveller either at the bar or on shore excursions.

foie-grasYes… that’s sinful!

An experience I wouldn’t mind repeating.  I vividly remember an overflow of food at any given time, impressive amenities, enjoyed especially the wet floor where they had a heated lounge chair which never fails to drift me off to dreamland.

mojitoMy Mojoto!

Crow’s Nest bar was where we spent a lot of our time on board not only because of the booze and great bunch of people but also

view

because it is indoors and had an almost panoramic view… well, of mostly the ocean but when we approached each town,

mountain-view

we’d get great views of mountains,

waterfalls

waterfalls,

islands-2

islands

whale

and sometimes we’d catch a few dolphins and whales riding with the ship.  I’d say it is the best place to hang out and get the best of both worlds.

sunset-2

Oh, the sunsets were spectacular too and the service – impeccable.

Allow me to show you around.

bowThe bow

crow's-nest-barCrow’s Nest Bar

deck-at-sunsetWalking around the deck at sunset

float-planesFloat planes at the Vancouver Pier

lifeboatOur Lifeboat Station (very important information)

Ocean View StateroomOur Ocean View Stateroom

RotterdamRotterdam Dining Room features impeccable service.  Five course menus includes continental cuisine, vegetarian and low carb option.

starter at rotterdamMy starter of seafood cocktail at The Rotterdam

And more of the view!

islands

mountain-view-2

mountains-and-islands

And some fabulous sunsets!

sunset-3

sunset-4

sunset-5

M/S Ryndam is part of Holland America Lines.