Timeless Vigan

Ilocos Sur is where many culture and histories meet, all sharing space in this timeless city called Vigan – shrines, landmarks, museums, churches, ancestral homes, a cobbled-stoned street.  Inscribed in 1999 in the UNESCO World Heritage list, citing that, “Vigan represents a unique fusion of Asian buildings and construction with European colonial architecture and planning.”

Established in the 16th century, Vigan is still the most intact example of a Spanish colonial town in Asia today.  It is best known for its cobbled-stone street, Calle Crisologo, lined with many old buildings that are intact, restored or in (dis)repair.

One can see remnants of the old-Spanish architecture throughout the center of the city.

Although the street is now busy with souvenir and curio shops, it still transports one back to the Vigan at its peak.  It is the oldest surviving Spanish colonial city in the country, not many of the historical buildings are left after WWII.

The old Vigan colonial houses, built mostly by rich Chinese traders, are made of thick brick walls and red clay.

They conduct their business on the ground floor and reside above.  It is a characteristic of Chinese culture and other Asian countries as well.  The resulting townscape is a unique display of a harmonious blend of Ilocano, Chinese and European elements, a unique display of the multi-culture nature of the Filipino society.

Captivated by colonial towns and its culture, this road trip all started with Vigan in mind.

From their longganisa and bagnets to their ancestral homes, we savored it all.

the street at night

We spent the 2 days walking up and down Calle Crisologo soaking in the heritage,

wondering how life was back in those elegant days of yore.  An interesting city albeit far from the capital with about 400 kilometers (that’s about 8 hours) of travel needed if you are coming from Manila.  Vigan is charming and I urge every Filipino to make a visit at least once in their life.   🙂

Not your typical McDonald’s facade

Al fresco dining in the evenings is a wonderful thing

Scenic Sunday

A Taste of Ilocos

Credits: Papers by Pou You from the Pink & Me Kit.

Food can be a landmark as surely as any monument ~ Patricia Volk

If food can get a landmark status, I bet Bagnet will surely be it for the Philippines.  A favorite of many and if you are Filipino, more likely than not, you’d know what it is and where to go to get it.

One long weekend a few months ago, we ventured on a road trip up north to have a taste of Ilocos.  An experience involving more than the sights and activities, our taste buds had a feast as well.  Here’s a short list of our flavor adventure.

Vigan Longganisa

Breakfast from our hotel – Hotel Salcedo de Vigan

Vigan, Pampanga, Lucban, Cagayan, Bagiuo… all proud of their version of longganisa, a Filipino pork sausage which I also posted a few months back here..  The Vigan version is a mix of ground pork, garlic, vinegar and spices.  Some like it sweet, I like it a bit sour with loads of garlic flavor, just how Vigan makes theirs.  We arrived at Vigan in time for breakfast just as we planned it.  Longganisa, rice and eggs (sunnyside up for me) – is breakfast hard to beat.

Bagnet

Bagnet from Cafe Uno

Sometimes called Ilocano chicharon, it is essentially double-deep fried pork belly that is crispy on the outside, tender and juicy in the inside and certainly heart attack material.  Double fried because after boiling the piece of meat, it is dried in the oven before it gets deep-fried in low heat.  To serve, it gets deep fried again, this time in high heat.  Forget about healthy eating when in Ilocos, this crispy pork meat is hard to resist especially when served with a side dish of tomatoes, fish sauce and onions or what locals call KBL.  Every bite sends me (literally) closer to heaven.  Teeheehee!   😀

Ilocos Empanada

Simply delicious!

My first experience of this crispy empanada was 10 years ago, bought in a stall along Plaza Burgos.  Didn’t leave much of an impression except that it was on the oily side, the fact that it is (again) deep-fried.  10 years later, walking along Salcedo St., we stumbled upon Irene’s Empanada, an unassuming eatery that boasts of their empanada (of course).  Hungry after a visit to the Syquia Mansion, we decided that this was a good time to have lunch.  Best decision ever.  Now I know why Ilocos proudly boasts of their empanada.  The shell was light and crispy, stuffed with grated young papaya, which perfectly compliments the skinless Vigan longganisa.  The best part was the egg inside, the yolk still soft.  With a sprinkle of sukang iloko (local vinegar), it was super.

Tongson’s Royal Bibingka

This one I read about and was on the top of my list.  A street away from the plaza and easy to spot.  After our delightful lunch of empanada, we decided that dessert was to be Tongson’s Royal Bibingka.  We bought a box and headed to our hotel’s coffee shop to pair it with coffee.  This got mixed reviews; some didn’t think much of it expecting a more traditional kind of bibingka.  This Royal Bibingka is more like native rice cakes, stickier and heavier than the bibingka we are familiar with.  I happen to be one of those who think it’s fabulous because I adore sticky rice cakes.

Torta

Perfect with the Tsokolate!

Something like mamon.  I’m not quite sure if this is a native if Ilocos but this one coffee shop called The Perfect Cup, served us torta and native chocolate receiving a high rating from all of us.  Yum!

More on Ilocos… stay tuned!

Small Treats: Halo-halo!

mwtwhitekabigting'sCredits to LivE‘s Sing for Spring Kit:  Papers- PP3-PP7; Elements- Birdoodle, Twill2_delight and Twill2_enjoy.

A popular Filipino dessert that is a mixture of shaved ice and milk to which are added various cooked beans and fruits.  My all-time favorite!  Kabigting’s halo-halo is Arayat’s pride; its unassuming façade (which even looked closed) reveals nothing of this sweet delight.  After breakfast at Abe’s Farm, we headed towards the town of Arayat, further away but we just had to have our halo-halo fix.  Who says dessert has to come after meals?  If I have my way, dessert comes first.

Pastillas.  That’s what makes their halo-halo different from the rest.  A different version from different towns and regions makes this Filipino dessert interesting.  One can use anything under the sun (that’s edible, of course), from fancy ones with tons of ingredients to something as simple as pastillas, mashed beans and corn.   The sweetness of the milk candy contrasts well with the saltiness of the corn.  The mashed beans add the texture and the result?  Delightfully refreshing.

Ice.  Ice is important too.  What always ruin my halo-halo experience are big chunks of ice.  Their smooth-shaved ice blends perfectly with all the other ingredients.

So if you find yourself in Magalang, make the effort to drive further and enjoy a serving of their simple yet excellent halo-halo.  It will make your day.

For more awesome worlds, go to That’s My World.

Lazing around Banff

It was a day of splendor and impressiveness and it had to end sometime.  So we checked in and had a quick bite before knocking off.  We were delighted to see Filipinos working there.  They, eager to see hometown folks, provided tips on how to get around town.

Roam-bus

Apparently, we didn’t need a car or kill our soles walking to get around in Banff.  Their Roam public transit bus system is very convenient with routes covering the whole townsite and there are bus stops near just about any places of interest.

The next day was spent downtown.  First stop was the information center, then we walked over to a tour company where we booked an evening wildlife tour, we spent the most part of the  day walking around town, museum hopping and shopping.

Grizzly-House

Food, as usual, was essential to our enjoyment. We were eyeing it the day before and agreed that lunch the next day will be at Grizzly House.

buffalo-burger

It was the Buffalo burger that caught our eye.  We were not disappointed.  It was juicy and had a richer flavor than beef burgers.  Did you know that buffalo meats are healthier being lower in cholesterol yet higher in iron and protein?  That’s right!  A great tasting, guiltless lunch.

The guiltless lunch was necessary for the dessert to come.

fudge-2

Choco-mint and Amaretto fudge.  Right beside Grizzly House is this candy store called The Sweet Shoppe and we went gaga over those fudges the minute we tried a small piece of sample.  The fudge was really a tad too sweet for my taste but it looks so irresistible and the flavors blended so perfectly with the chocolate, you seem to accept the sweetness, especially if paired with a good cup of black coffee.  Perfection.  This is how to gain instant weight!!  But who cares… I’m on vacation, am I not?   😉

So with that dessert we were ready for some serious walking around town.  And here are some of the town captured through my lens.

banff-downtown

Banff with Sulphur Mountain as its backdrop.

banff-fr-bridge

Taken from the bridge.

bridge

The bridge.

caramel-popcorn-2

Yummy Caramel Popcorn from Mountain Chocolates.

downtown-2

fudge

Fudge from the Fudgery.

totem-poleTotem Pole at the Indian Trading Post.

We also checked out some museums along the way.

Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum

Luxton-Museum-4

Just a few steps away from Banff Indian Trading Post, this museum returns you to when First Nations people followed the buffalo herds into the Bow Valley, hauling their belongings by travois.

luxton-museum-3

It tells the story through interpretive exhibitions, artifacts and dioramas.  The museum displays a wealth of Native artifacts and collections from richly ornamented costumes, beautifully decorated teepees, colorful quillwork to historical hunting equipments.

Luxton-Museum-2

Luxton-Museum

It is a cultural display that celebrates the richness, diversity, continuity and above all, the resilience of the First Nations people.  Life sized scenes from the life of the plains before the Europeans arrived are depicted in a reconstructed fur-trading post.

Norman Luxton, for whom the museum was named, ran the trading post.  Luxton developed a long-standing relationship with the Stoney Indians and the Luxton Museum’s collections display some of the memorabilia he obtained through the years.

Banff Park Museum National Historic Site

Park-Banff-Museum-2

This 1903 log cabin characteristic of early federal buildings is the oldest Natural History Museum.  It is a fascinating little museum.

Park-Banff-Museum

Not only did it have Banff’s mammals, birds and insects preserved in authentic Victorian style display cases – many of which visitors hear about but didn’t get to always see in the wild — it also is like seeing through the eyes of an early 20th century visitor with some of the displays dating back to 1860.  The amount of animals was probably the most interesting part – coming from the Philippines, many of the North American animals are unfamiliar to me so it was interesting to learn and see them up close.

stuffed-buffalo

Up next… the real thing.

Negros Goodies: New Discoveries

mwtwhite

Namit-GidCredits:  Papers:  JCrowley’s beautiful evidence – solid 4, JSprague’s HAFH – Awning Stripe;  Frame:  KPertiet Storyboard Negs 1A

Namit to translate means delicious, yummy, scrumptious and all the other adjectives that you can find in your dictionary that best describes good food!  Food has always and will always be a big part of my trips (and life in general) and what better way to cap the series than to acquaint you with some of the wonderful (recently discovered) delicacies this region has to offer.  Negros is renowned for celebrating in style, their cuisine developed for this eagerness for festivities though much of their cuisine is guarded in family kitchens.  Particularly popular are their sugar based food items and delicacies but not to neglect are some of the best savory treats I’ve ever encountered.

Besides Chicken Inasal, Guapple Pie and the sinfully delicious sweets of Calea featured in my earlier posts, Negros’ pastries and confectionary are particularly popular and Piaya, Barquillos, Pinasugbo, Pastillas de Manga, and Dulce Gatas are ranked among the favorites.  Here are some of my favorites!

dulce-gatas-b

Dulce Gatas:  a chewy caramel like paste made of carabao’s milk.  A different take on pastillas, a milk based pastry and can be made with just milk and sugar.

piayitos-b

Casa Caramel Gourmet Piayitos:  unlike the traditional flatbread stuffed with muscovado filling called Piaya.  This baby brother is a new take – smaller, crispier, slim discs that is absolutely addicting.  And it’s organic too!  I can finish the whole box and more in one sitting.

pastillas-de-manga-b

Pastillas de Manga:  empanaditas (baby empanadas) with yummy, sweet, chewy mango filling.  Equally addicting.

pitaw-b

Pitaw:  veering away from the sweets that is often the trademark of the Negrenses, Pitaw is wild rice-field birds, a local delicacy cooked adobo style.  Now found in a jar to take home with you.  Best eaten re-fried to crispiness.

lechon-b

The lechon… waiting to be cut open

chicken-in-lechonthe chicken…

A different kind of Lechon (roast pig):  have you ever heard of a chicken cooked inside a pig?  Seems absurd but I promise… it’s really mouthwatering.  This lechon is a specialty of Enting’s and is our last meal in Bacolod before heading to Sipalay.  Came highly recommended by no other than Chef Bruce Lim, the first thing we did when we arrived was made reservations and ordered their specialty.  Did not disappoint.  Both lechon and chicken superbly flavored although the skin could be crispier but I’m not complaining.

covered-binakolour individual bowl of soup

binakol

Chicken Binakol: Chicken soup cooked in sweet coconut juice.  Although not exactly original to Negros, this Binakol deserves a mention particularly since it was especially prepared by (Arnold, the cook of Nataasan Resort) on our last night there.  Absolutely heavenly and the best I’ve ever had.

diwal-b

from the aquarium

grilled-diwal-bto the grill… yum!

Diwal:  saving the best for last.  Also called angel wing clams, a sweet and succulent shellfish and a specialty of Negros   So much a favorite that fisher folks harvested volumes of diwal up to the ‘90s, destructing its habitat and is considered somewhat endangered.  Up until a few years ago, harvesting of these clams was totally banned to allow the remaining stocks to replenish its population.  Thank God this conservation measures gave positive effect and we are able to once more enjoy a meal or two of this fabulous shellfish.

Go have a glimpse of other worlds, visit My World here.

Enting’s
Contact No.:  +63918-221-0026

WS# 13: Having My Cake(s) and Eating It Too!

Life is uncertain.  Eat dessert first.  

— Ernestine Ulmer

 calea-sweet-indulgenceCredits:  Papers – jcrowley beautiful evidence papers pp4 and pp9;  Elements – Oscraps Moonrise flower gsass1, jcrowley beautiful eveidence label 13;  Alphas – Oscraps Moonrise Alpha

I need my sugar fix and yes, I sometimes eat dessert first or simply just dessert.  Heck life is short!  So imagine me in Calea, the most popular dessert place in Bacolod.  Like a kid in a candy store… my eyes go up and down, left to right, how do I pick one out of the 20 something choices?  I simply can’t.  So we were there 4 days out of the 5 that we spent in the Bacolod/Silay area.   😀

 calea

Not only is it town favorite, it has become the top pick of neighboring provinces and those in the know in Manila as well.  Blue polka dots boxes of Calea goodness, to bring home as “pasalubong” (gift), are normal sights at the airport.

 calea-choc-cake

Their best seller, the famous (moist) Chocolate Cake is special.  The icing so thick, it’s practically chewy!  Never had anything like it before. 

calea-white-lemon-pie

My personal favorite however, is their White Lemon Pie.   Loving anything citrusy and tart… Key Lime Pie, Lemon Merengue, Lemon Torte… this came as no surprise.  This pie has just the right blend of sweet and sour, the lemon filling and whipped cream makes perfect partners.

When you find yourself in Bacolod, please do not miss Calea.

Calea
Lourdes C Bldg.,
Lacson St., Bacolod City
Negros Occidental
(034)4338664

 

WS# 12: Inasal Nga Manok

inasal

That’s grilled chicken in Ilonggo and the pride of Bacolod.  Marinated with a reddish, sometimes yellowish hue from achuete (annatto seeds), this Bacolod delicacy is a hit not only in the south but has conquered the palates of Luzon as well, evident in the sprouting of several Bacolod Chicken Inasal food chains in Metro Manila.  Nothing is as authentic though as having it right where it originated.  And so we trekked to Chicken House and Chicken Deli (on different days, of course), the former slightly better than the latter but they say that the best would be the ones you find in Manukan Village.  Here, one gets the whole experience down to the “not so clean” eateries and al fresco dining sans ambience.  We however, never found our way there this time but not without trying, we simply ran out of days and time.  Another reason to return.

inasal-isol

Served by the parts in barbeque sticks, pecho (thigh), paa (leg) but the best (at least for me) is got to be the isol (ass).  Yes chicken ass!  Chicken House has the best, I was told and true enough, it perhaps was the best ass I’ve ever had.  Crunchy on the outside and tender and juice just how it should be on the inside.

This grilled chicken with a little bit of sinamak (Vinegar the ilonggo way- vinegar, garlic, ginger and chilies), soy sauce, calamansi (our local lime) and fresh sili labuyo (chili)= YUM!

WS#11: Guapple Pie

Just got back from Easter (Holy Week, we call it) break that was brimming with adventure and new discoveries, from hiking to diving to feasting.

ws-11-guapple

But before I launch into the details, let me first share some Guapple Pie fresh from El Ideal Bakery.

ws11-guapple-slice

Made from guapples (a large guava variety), this piece of heaven is a great twist from the original (and very American) Apple Pie.  Tastes quite similar down to the cinnamon and the crumble, what makes the difference is the crunchy bite and the slight, distinct guava flavor that compliments rather than drowns in the cinnamon.

el-ideal

An institution and the pride of Silay, El Ideal is always a “must stop” when in Bacolod (or anywhere in Negros Occidental actually), more accessible these days with the Airport now just minutes away.  Certainly a great “pasalubong” (gift) from the city of Silay.

El Ideal
118 Rizal Street, Silay City,
Negros Occidental

Café By the Ruins

Whenever I find myself in Baguio, I make it a point to have a meal in this highland café across the street from Baguio City Hall.  I used to think that the ruins were from the big 1991 earthquake that changed Baguio.  Turned out that it used to be the pre-war residence of the governor of Benguet destroyed during WWII.  You’ll hardly find any ruins today for as you enter, you immediately notice the cozy native and artsy ambience.  Visitors may have a glimpse of its ruined past through the photos hanging on the walls.

cafe-by-the-ruins

Known for its organic cuisine, this café first opened its doors in 1988 originally meant to be a place to hangout among friends and artists but grew to be a bastion of the art community of Baguio and a favorite dining spot of both highlanders and lowlanders alike.

Last January, coming down from Sagada, we had a few hours in Baguio and where else did we tread?  It was a nice lunch of Forest Stream Soup – a delicious gingery broth with sautéed shitake and watercress.

forrest-soup

Tita Susie’s Crispy Tapa – something like crispy adobe in beef, served with mountain red rice.

crispy-tapa

A glass of Lassie with salt and pepper – different but lovely.

lassie

Ruins coffee – mountain coffee filtered with cardamon, topped with whipped cream, muscovado sugar stick and cinnamon powder – not the typical black (no cream, no sugar) coffee I that prefer, the cardamon piqued my fancy.  No regrets as the cardamon gave it a nice twist.

coffee

Madeleines – originally from France, this cookies seems more like a cake, soft and dense.

madeleines

And do not leave without trying some of their famous Camote bread which we partnered with Guava Jam and butter.  Yum!

bread

If you’re after ambience and organic dishes of the north, make sure to make your way to Café By the Ruins.  Their menu changes regularly depending on what’s in season in that part of the cordillera, although they also keep their best sellers such as Longganisang Hubad and Pinikpikan.

Oh and to keep with the topic, I’m off to Baguio tomorrow, by the way, just to chill and maybe enjoy some of the festivities of Panagbenga.  Have a nice weekend!

Useful details:

Café By the Ruins
23 Chuntug, Baguio City
Tel # 442-4010

WS# 7: A New Dining Experience

Eat, drink and be merry for tomorrow we diet!

Was what my friends and I did two Thursdays ago at Chef’s Table, a newly opened private dining of a different kind right at the kitchen of Chef Bruce Lim.  A different kind because you get to watch him prepare the dishes right in front of you while he entertains you with trivias, stories of his stints abroad, etc.

chef-bruce-in-action

For those who spend less time on the couch, Chef Bruce is the Chef/host of Tablescapes and Chef’s Table.  He could very well be the up and coming celebrity chef in this side of town.

chef-bruce

His kitchen serves as kitchen studio for many years to the show produced by Mis en Plus Production and shown at Studio 23, TFC and recently at AFC.  Tucked away in the outskirts of the Fort, perched atop his family’s building, this kitchen has found another purpose.  It is now becoming a hot spot for freestyle dining.  Chef Bruce has opened his home… er… kitchen to the public.  It is now open for dining every night except Wednesdays.

chef-bruce-table

Reservations required, a week in advance for the adventurous opting for freestyle dining and 1 day in advance for those opting the safer route, the set menu.  So what is freestyle dining, you may ask?  It’s leaving it up to the chef to surprise you.  You give your budget and he prepares your dinner.  Ours was at P1,500 per head and we had…

For starters…

Lato Salad and Sake Shooters:

lato-and-shooters

Fresh lato tossed with tomatoes, red onion and ginger.  Drizzled with a citrus vinaigrette.  The shooter had fresh oysters topped with a spicy tomato sauce and a shot of sake.  I never really like lato because of it’s fishy taste but this salad didn’t have that at all thanks to the ginger and red onion.  It was the best lato salad I had ever tasted.  Yum!

Tartar Duo:

tartar-duo

Fresh Ahi tuna and salmon mixed with aromatics and topped with crispy camote chips.  A perfect duo!  Although meant to be an appetizer, this dish had a great deal of flavor and richness from the salmon, one could only take so much… so perhaps a smaller serving would have been perfect.  But I finished it albeit slowly coz it was just too good to put to waste.

Roasted Tomato Halaan Cream Soup:

halaan-soup

Clams sautéed in onion and ginger than steamed in white wine, which brought out the flavor of the halaan complementing the sweetness of the roasted tomato cream soup drizzled in basil oil.  A different ambrosial twist to your classic halaan soup.   Definitely worth a try.

For the main course, we had 3 entrees!

Crab & Shrimp Cakes:

crab-cakes

Monterey style cakes served with a tamarind aioli.  This for me is the winner of the night.  First of all, it’s crabs and shrimps, two of my most favorite food in the world.  The combination was just superb.  The texture of the crab meat coupled with the crunchiness of the fresh shrimps… ahhh!  But the tamarind aioli definitely made a world of difference to this wonderful dish.  Love it!

Steamed Fish:

steamed-fish

Steamed Lapu lapu sat on a bed of ube (yam) mash.  Yes Ube.  I really love the colors and the presentation of this dish.  The meat however, was a bit tough unlike the Chinese-style steamed fish I am used to.

Chicken Jamon:

chcken-deboned

Chicken leg deboned and stuffed with a cranberry rouge dressing and oven roasted to perfection.  Drizzled with a red wine orange reduction and served with potato gratin.  Not particularly fond of stuffed chicken and this one’s not an exception.

For dessert, we likewise got 2 kinds!

Crème Brule: Enjoyed this a lot, the custard baked perfectly leaving a smooth feel in the mouth.

creme-brulee

Mango Strudel:  Fresh mango tossed in sugar and cinnamon then wrapped in phylo dough.  Baked till golden brown.  It was the perfect combination of sweet with a hint of cinnamon and crisp.  Perfect cap to a great dining experience.

mango-strudel

Contact Details:

Chef’s Table
1238 Emilio Jacinto St. corner Kalayaan
Contact: Michelle Lim
0918-8871277