Reminiscing Batanes

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The first time I became aware of this group of islands called Batanes was when I saw this Filipino film –  “Hihintayin Kita sa Langit” which catapulted to stardom two established actors in my side of the world (and it just dated me too). Since then I became obsessed in stepping foot on this islands of the Ivatans.  In 1997, that obsession came to fruition.  It was my first taste of rugged travels.  I feel privileged to have witnessed the Batanes of before… before its commercialization to a certain degree, that is.  At that time, there was only one jeep going around the island of Batan.  So we walked almost everywhere, even climbed an idjang – a pre-hispanic mountain fortress where the locals sought refuge during tribal conflicts. There were only a few places to lodge; we stayed at Mama Lily’s.  It was clean and comfortable albeit spartan.  And because there were hardly any restaurants then, we’d have home cooked meals courtesy of our host.  Fortunately, she cooks and cooks well.

Getting to Sabtang is an adventure of its own.  The only way to get there is by boat or what they call falowa.  If the sea gets a bit rough, expect your inside to turn topsy turvy as well.  Expect to take the trip with chickens, goats and sometimes a cow… yes a cow!  We’d hike the whole island, spending the night camping in a school gym at Sumnanga; halfway around the island, then we’d walk back the next day to catch the falowa back to the main island, Batan.  Those were the days.

batanes-circa-97Credit: Paper – Joyful Hear Designs Plain Jane – Olive; Alpha – PDuncan Carnival Alpha; Element – Hoyfyl Heart Designs – Plain Jane Tape

Nine years after my first Batanes encounter, I found myself back in 2006. There were evident changes – vehicles, more than one and more than one kind were now all over the island.  There were a lot more lodges and inns, some restaurants, even a pizza place but despite all this, it is still the Batanes I reveled in almost a decade ago.  Mama Lily has long migrated to the US and when I passed her house, fond memories (of her food actually) came flashing by.

batanes1Credits:  Alpha – Asman; Papers – KPertiet Cotton Easter – red; KPertiet King Me Paper; KPertiet Graph Note Paper; Overlay – KPertiet Graphic Sun Prints OV; Tag – KPertiet Stick Pon2 Red Tag; Template – JSprage 4 square template; Frame- JSprague Grunge Frame 1

Sabtang, my favorite island of Batanes, has not progressed as much as Basco has.  The only way there is still by falowa (and still taking on both humans and animals).  Sabtang still leaves me breathless.  It makes you feel like you’re in another world.  Although you can now arrange for a vehicle to take you around the island, walking is still the main means especially among the locals.  Truth to tell, you get see more of the island by foot so if you can, take the vehicle up to a certain point (probably Chavayan) and hike the rest of the island.  Still no inns and only a few stores that offer food in the island, our contact in Basco, had someone cook dinner for us.  The food was great but we were so stirred by their warm reception.  Their pride was so evident as they talk about their island and simple cuisine (which consisted of a lot of root crops, turmeric and seafood, particularly lobster, crabs et al). Camping days are likewise over, the School of fisheries in Centro has dormitory rooms, albeit few and basic, indoors nevertheless.  I heard that there now exists a Sabtang Lodge, which I have yet to verify and see for myself.

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It is now possible to fly to Itbayat when the only way to get there before was by falowa – four hours of rough sea.  Sheer torture, I’m sure.  Itbayat, the farthest northern inhabited island, can be considered the Philippine’s last frontier.  Its rocky island is a great place for trekking.  We barely scratched the surface as we only did an overnight.  We visited a cave that led to a rocky hilltop overlooking the sea.  It was awesome and quite different from islands of Batan and Sabtang.  This needed going back to and we decided that this year would be a good time to go… well we tried.

itbayat-islandCredits: Paper – DJE PP3, Joyful Heart Designs Plain Jane-Seafoam, Scarlet Heels Media Carnival PP1; Frames – JSprague Flurish Frame, KPertiet Snap Frames; Element – Jack n Me Alpha blank

Needless to say, plans didn’t pull through. Why? You ask.  First, we found out that the airport where the planes takes off to Itbayat is currently under construction and there is still no solid plan as to its resumption.  And to my dismay, but to my friend, S‘s delight… you see, she had to back out of this trip because of this thing called work.  But I digress.  So to my dismay, when some (I wasn’t about to cancel) went to cancel their flights with Zest Air (formerly Asian Spirit), they found out that flights in February were still up in the air (no pun intended).  They revealed that their entire January flights were canceled due to aircraft shortage.  Unbelievable!  We didn’t have a sure flight to Batanes after all?  And we weren’t informed about it until someone went to cancel?  By that time SeaAir (the other Airline that flies to Batanes) was fully booked.  Hmmph!!  But it’s only February, you may wonder.  Well, we could if we really want to push it and go in March or April but I just love it there during the cool, breezy months.  It’s really the best time to go.  After summer comes typhoon, and you don’t want to be there at that time, believe you me! So perhaps next year and perhaps not with Zest Air.   😉

And that’s “the not so sad” tale of my recent Batanes trip that never was.   😕

This has been my entry to That’s My World Tuesday.  Go visit to see more.

 

River White

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Credits:  Papers:  KPertiet Fairy Dreamer, JSprague Red Solid Paper, KPertiet Botanist no. 7-2; Elements:  Jack n Me Alpha blank, KPertiet Brown Stitching, KPertiet Quotes;  Brushes:  DD MWise A La Mode, KPertiet On the Edge Flourishes 2-1G;  Frames:  KPertiet On the Edge Flourishes 3-6G, KPertiet Snap Frame

Navigating the White Nile or the source of the Nile, in Uganda, is a once in a lifetime experience.  The Ugandan government has every intention of constructing a hydroelectric dam at the Bujugali Falls to provide power to the country, as their frequent power interruptions can last a whole day.  In a few years the exciting rapids will just be a memory.

We would raft rapids labeled as “the bad place”, “overtime” and more.   The day trip is a 30 km stretch of world-class white water rapids, mostly grades 4 & 5.  I was in for a turbulent ride!  But hey!  How often do you get to raft the longest river on earth?  The White Nile is a beautiful stretch of river with abundant bird life and rich, green-forested banks.  While the whole experience gives you an adrenalin rush, strangely, a calm assurance sort of settles in because well, wasn’t I rafting with some of the best river guides in the world?

Useful Info:

The Outfit: ADRIFT Adventure Co.

Plot 14, York Terrace,
Kololo (near Kololo airstrip & MTN Nyonyi Gardens)
Kampala, Uganda
E-mail:     raft@adrift.ug
Telephone:   +256-(0) 312 237 438
Mobile:   +256 (0) 772 237 438

 

Ibulao Ibulao

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This was taken in Ibulao River, Kiangan.  Not many have rafted or even know of this river (I think) and as the photos on the slideshow below exhibits, it is a fantastic 3 hours of rafting experience with a view so impressive.  An interesting place rich in history, Kiangan is believed to be the first human settlement in Ifugao.  This is also where Ifugao and American troops helped force General Yamashita to make his informal surrender in World War II.

We stayed in a charming hostel owned by the Kalugdans, I remember the food to be superb.  This was a special trip organized by Adventures and Expedition Philippines Inc. (AEPI) to explore the river.  They have since run several trips running the upper portion of the river.  Definitely worth a try.

This has been my entry to That’s My World.  Go visit and  find other worlds here.

Getting There:

Take either Autobus or Florida Bus Line to Banaue, get off at Kiangan.

 

Contact Details:

Auto Bus
Espana cornor Catalina,
Sampaloc, Manila
Phone:  735-8096

Bus fare:       P 460

Florida Bus Line
Sampaloc, Manila
Phones:  743-3809 / 731-5358 / 493-3667

Bus fare: P 450

Sleeping Arrangements:

Kalugdan Hostel, Kiangan
Ibulao Ibulao
Dra. Tess Kalugdan
0919-694-5964
totokalugdan@yahoo.com
 
Adventures & Expeditions Philippines Inc. (AEPI)
Anton Carag
0917-532-7480
whitewater1ph@yahoo.com

Kayak the Rapids, Anyone?

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That’s right!  In up north Peñablanca in Cagayan Province, you can kayak downstream in its Pinacanuan River. Depending on the time of year, the rapids provide an adrenalin rush interspersed with calmer water where one can enjoy the beautiful landscape, scenery and occasionally spot kingfishers or herons along the way.

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On a hot day, the clear, blue water invites a dip to cool while picnicking by the riverbank.  Relaxed or charged, this river surely captivates the heart.

 

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While you’re there, why not visit Callao and Sierra caves?  The first cave requires an easy trek on a big-domed cave with skylights.  A 206-step flight of stairs will lead you to a little chapel with pews and an altar.  Sierra, on the other hand, is a recreational cave with an array of well-preserved and very delicate speleothems (stalactites and stalagmites).

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Be sure to stay and watch the phenomenal circadian bats leave their nesting place in droves to look for food just before the sun sets.  These are fruit bats so not to worry as they only eat fruits.   😀

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If you find your way to this part of the world and would like to try this out, you may contact Anton Carag of AEPI.

Visit more worlds here.

*Edited 02/14/10:  The AEPI website is no longer available… you may contact Anton Carag at +63(917) 532-7480.

Hello 2009!

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How did you spend the extra-long break?  I spent it up in the mountains… two, in fact.  After Christmas, my family and I flew to Denpasar and spent 5 relaxing days in a wonderful resort in Ubud, Bali.  As soon as I landed in Manila, I was on my way to Baguio to spend a quiet New Year in Sagada with good friends.  Both locations I return again and again for their food, so I indulged in good eating this season (as always).   😉 Overindulgence aside, I also found time to finally make a dent on the pile of books on my shelf, waiting to be read.

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Despite the gloomy forecast, I can’t wait to get started.  I’ve already got a growing list of plans for the year.  Four exciting places I want to explore within the 1st half of the year. Learn one sport (starting this month) and master it (in a year or two, I hope).  Know Photoshop inside out.  Take more photos… and the list goes on.  But before all these, it’s back to the gym tomorrow to shed off those extra pounds!   😛

Seriously though, I am thankful and grateful to the almighty God for a wonderful 2008. Hope the blessing continues with the same grace and faithfulness He has bestowed through the years.

A blessed New Year to all!  More on Bali and Sagada in the next few days.

Fear Conquered

02.21.2004 – Canopy Walk, Cagayan de Oro

First you have to know that I have this great fear of heights.  Scared to rappel, scared of ridges (especially if it drops more than 10 feet), scared to look down the balcony of a tall building and definitely scared s**t to zip down to the first platform and walk on slippery (angled) bars and wobbly hanging walkways.  No way Jose!  But peer pressure and the thought of being left behind got the better of me and I lived to tell the tale. 😀

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Credits:  Amy Teets whitie tighties paper; Jessica Sprague Echoes of Asia dark blue solid paper, lt. blue solid paper; Jessica Sprague Echoes Ribbon – striped; Jessica Sprague Echoes frame 7×5; Katie Pertiet stamped moments-forever

So will I do it again?  Are you kidding?! 😛

Update:  Click on here for more information.  Thanks B!   😀

Yap Yap Hooray!

small, sleepy town
small, sleepy town

It was 3 AM (1 AM Manila time) when we arrived at a small, simple looking airport in Yap (looks like one of our small city airports back home).  We were met by Dave, a soft-spoken, burly man who runs Beyond the Reef and who briefly advised us on pick-up times and what to dos for the next few days.  We were tired but elated for what lies ahead. There were only a handful of us that got off the plane en route to Guam (so you think that it would be quick and easy getting through?  We had to wait for one of our friend’s luggage as it did not get off the plane and was on its way to Guam… which they say is a normal thing — Yikes!).  The 5,000 visitors last year were mostly divers.  With a population of only 13,000, this sleepy town is known mostly for it’s marine life, more specifically for Manta Rays.  Sightings are almost always a sure thing.  And so we travelled a long and winding route to this Federated State of Micronesia hoping for some encounters with the Mantas.  Because the flights do not connect, we had to stay the night in Palau both ways, which allowed us practically 2 days to kill.  And killed we did by shopping till we dropped.  Not that we don’t have those PX goods and those dive paraphernalia back home BUT um I rarely go shopping when I’m home.  A lame excuse ya?

Not too hot…

divers weaving through
divers weaving through

Of course we went to several dive sites but I have 2 favorites that I will rave about later. First, let me briefly acquaint you with some of the “not too hot” sites. Not that they’re a real disappointment but perhaps we just weren’t there at the right time.  The first would be Yap Cavern, had fun weaving in and out (as it was my first time in a cavern) but kinda disappointing coz we missed the schools of jacks and the barracudas that usually hang out at the end of the cavern.  What we had was a rare episode, I heard  So I wouldn’t generalize this one experience.  It still is a pretty site even without the schools.  Next was Miil Channel and likewise a let down for us, as the Mantas were nowhere in sight, while the reviews raved of schools of Mantas (sometimes reaching up to 8 at a single sighting) when in season.  We thought that we perhaps brought some bad luck with us?  We found out after, that we were a month shy of the season. No wonder, no mantas!  While Fanif looked like a ghost town underwater with just a smattering of reef sharks (am I spoiled or am I spoiled???), Magic Kingdom on the other hand boasts of beautiful coral beds — reminding me of Twin Rocks in Anilao but pales in comparison to my 2 favorites so hang in there, stay with me and read on.

Vertigo

schools of sharks
sharkies lined up

School of sharks — black tips and gray reefs everywhere. Babies, teenagers, full growns, fat ones, thin ones– all sizes just below our boat. We didn’t even have to swim far.  At one point, I counted 23 sharks. TWENTY THREE!  It’s like watching a 3D movie with front row seats.  Amazing!

We came back on our last day to cap off a great dive trip.  Good visibility, noblack tip

currents, beautiful reefs, plenty of other fishes — sweet lips, surgeons, wrasse, etc. A no brainer.  We just had to have our group shot here, and we did.

The second time around, I counted only 7 sharks wandering around but they were swimming so close, we could almost touch them.  Well, that really isn’t a good thing, is it? But I’m still alive so I guess it can’t be such a bad thing. 🙂  Ok, there are some rules to be followed like stay on the reef, always face and never swim out to the blue (that’s the deep blue water where the sharks are).  And for as long as you follow those rules, you’ll be okay.  I got to see the sharks up close and personal.  Love the black tips with white borders the most.  A perfect finale indeed.

Valley of the Rays

swimming so low we could touch them if we stretch hard enough
swimming so low we could touch them if we stretch long enough

Love the name, and the rays love this place. It succinctly describes this place.  Here, manta rays abound because here, planktons and remoras are aplenty.  They come for the cleaning (from the remoras) and the feeding (the planktons).  I think that is why it is called a cleaning station ya?  Now I wonder if it is also called a feeding station? 🙂

For three days, our schedule looked like this… up by 6, breakfast at 7, on the boat by 8, and at “The Valley” by 9. The mantas are there early, we were told. And they were indeed. As soon as we approached the station, they were there, at least 2 if not 3 at a time (except for the first day when they appeared 7 minutes before I had to deco, read: I only had less than 7 minutes before I have to ascend, or else! hehe!). And they did not disappoint. These gentle giants with wingspan of approximately 10-12 feet wide, were swimming, gliding gracefully above us, in front of us, all around us. Sometimes playing hide and seek, sometimes posing for the camera, sometimes just watching us, hovering so close above us we had to stay close to the ground or risk getting hit.   An experience hard to top, eh?

up close and personal
up close and personal

It’s Sooo Worth It!

an underwater group shot in Vertigo
an underwater group shot in Vertigo

We came to Yap primarily for the Mantas, and we got Mantas. E.V.E.R.Y.D.A.Y!  The sharks were a a pleasant surprise and a bonus.  Despite some disappointments, Yap in my opinion is money well spent.  If Mantas are what you’re after, I recommend Yap.  If you want to see more than just Mantas, Palau would be more practical where Mantas aren’t guaranteed but you’ll encounter a whole lot of pelagics.  Best if you can do both.  Close encounter with the Mantas (and sharkies). Check!

Credits:  All underwater photos by Wilson Lei.