That’s right! In up north Peñablanca in Cagayan Province, you can kayak downstream in its Pinacanuan River. Depending on the time of year, the rapids provide an adrenalin rush interspersed with calmer water where one can enjoy the beautiful landscape, scenery and occasionally spot kingfishers or herons along the way.
On a hot day, the clear, blue water invites a dip to cool while picnicking by the riverbank. Relaxed or charged, this river surely captivates the heart.
While you’re there, why not visit Callao and Sierra caves? The first cave requires an easy trek on a big-domed cave with skylights. A 206-step flight of stairs will lead you to a little chapel with pews and an altar. Sierra, on the other hand, is a recreational cave with an array of well-preserved and very delicate speleothems (stalactites and stalagmites).
Be sure to stay and watch the phenomenal circadian bats leave their nesting place in droves to look for food just before the sun sets. These are fruit bats so not to worry as they only eat fruits. 😀
If you find your way to this part of the world and would like to try this out, you may contact Anton Carag of AEPI.
I am blessed. Blessed to be able to explore the world, albeit not as extensive as I want to but I’ve had some fair share of adventure and fun last year. So I’m not complaining. Last year was a good mix of local and international travels, small and big trips. Rounding them up, there were highs and lows, great satisfactions and some disappointments. Here’s a run down of my best and not so best experiences of 2008.
The Disappointment
Donsol – in pursuit of the elusive whale sharks (Feb)
We were ready to jump anytime but the whale sharks were scarce. There were way too many boats, way too disorganized and so we caught a glimpse of its… tail. Oh well… this calls for another trip sometime in the future.
One Miserable Climb
Mt. Pulag – rained out! (Feb)
We started the trek with just overcast clouds, then it drizzled and when we reached the campsite, it poured. It let up a bit just so we can go to the loo and cook our dinner. Then it started again. Rained the whole night and the whole day, next day. Needless to say, the summit was foggy and really, really cold! No sunrise, just slippery, flooded trails. Good thing this was not my first time here and I’ve seen a glorious sunrise in 2002. But we still had fun.
My Favorite Asian Destination (thus far)
Luang Prabang, Laos (Mar)
The jewel of Indochina and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Surrounded by mountains at the junction of the Mekong and its tributary, the Khan River, Luang Prabang to me is a city where time stood still.
It was a wonderful 5 days of various adventures. One day was spent trekking to the Kwang Si falls, another learning to cook Lao dishes. There were a lot of walking, eating (Lao and French meals), sunset cocktails and we even had a taste of a traditional Khamu massage. It was fantastic.
A Delightful Road Trip
Viaje del Sol (Apr) – a blend of good food and the arts. From Kusina ni Salud (for dinner) to Ugu Bigyan (for lunch and his potteries) to Carlito’s (for coffee, mangoes and his sculptures) in one weekend resulting to another follow-up weekend. This time, we stayed in Casa San Pablo, checked out Kinabuhayan Café, and had a satisfying lunch at Sulyap Gallery Café, a restaurant cum antique gallery. There definitely will be a 3rd trip to this Viaje del Sol sometime in the future. Perhaps we’ll try a meal at Kinabuhayan Café, try that famous buko pie locals are raving about and do an overnight at Sitio de Amor.
Wonderfully Surprised
Dolphins Galore at Puerto Bay (May)
Didn’t even know that they had a lot in Puerto Princesa, Palawan. There were tons of ’em. What we didn’t see in Donsol, these dolphins made up for. We didn’t even need a spotter as they were all over the place. Never saw so much in my life. Tons and tons of them. Hope to dive there someday.
A Junk Experience
Cruisin’ Halong Bay, Hanoi (Jul)
When in Hanoi, one must experience cruising along Halong Bay in a junk at least once. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the bay features calm water and thousands of limestone karsts and islets in various shapes and size. Something like Palawan.
Even if he wasn’t around, I was excited to be there. Totally am infatuated with this celebrity chef of Travel and Living’s World Asia Café series. And the food did not disappoint. Maybe because I’m so infatuated. Hee Hee! Expensive but superb. Sorry but no photos of the food and the place except from across the street. It was a treat from DBF to cap our Hanoi adventure and we agreed no cameras, besides the place was too dark to get even one decent photo.
Great Amusement
Watching the traffic of Hanoi at the Old Quarter (Jul)
We spent hours atop a restaurant sipping beer, relaxing and watching the traffic below with amazement. The chaos of Vietnam traffic just amused us no end. Watch and be amused.
The Best Reunion Ever
A San Francisco get-together with my high school buddies (Aug)… some I haven’t seen in 26 years. It was a trip down memory lane but more importantly, it was literally a food trip as well. Our friend and classmate, JT, now a chef cooked a superb dinner for us! They’re actually planning another one this year… a US trip 2 years in a row is out of my budget if I want to explore other new places as well, so boohoo for me.
A Cove Truly Breathtaking
Anawangin Cove (Sep)
This could pass as my runner-up for the Most Miserable Climb too. I am a clumsy person and more often than not, I fall and hurt myself. So during the trek I was already asking “why do I do this to myself”? when I banged my knee in the course of what I thought was an easy trek. I’ve seen beautiful pixes, read and heard so much about this “not so secret” place and finally am hours away from it. Thrilled and excited as I started the 7.3 km trek to Anawangin Cove, I was 3rd to arrive at the saddle (which had an awesome view of the cove, by the way). Not bad, if I may brag… Many months of lifting, walking on a machine (that goes nowhere), puffing and pushing is finally paying off. THEN… without warning, I slipped and fell about 30 minutes through our descent, all because I was not paying attention to the trail. It was agony from then on. Let’s just say that I trudged downhill, passing rocky streams for another 2+ hours before I reached the camp… From 3rd to last! Thirsty, tired and in pain but dampen my spirits it did not as it was indeed so BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL! Picture this, Agojo (imagine pine trees as it looked so much like it) forest on the beach with a meandering fresh water stream that flows out to the sea. And that is why I keep doing this to myself.
An Adrenalin-filled Birthday Weekend
Rafting the Chico (Oct)
Been doing this for almost a decade but never on my birthday. So that’s new. If you’ve never tried this, you should! You will experience one heck of a weekend, a totally worked out upper body, and the thrill of a lifetime. Contact Anton Carag of AEPI for bookings.
An Incredible Underwater Experience
Mantas and Sharks up close in Yap (Nov)
Amazing… is all I can say. An experience of a lifetime. Read more about it here.
Never fails to remind me of the mountains that I love so much. Took this shot at Lemon Pie House in Sagada 2 weeks ago, the pine cones aptly displayed on the window casement. Simple yet artistic eh?
Wish you stayed away from the noise and smoke of Manila during the New Year? You did? I did. The clean, crisp air, cold weather, beautiful pine trees, delicious yoghurt of Sagada was enough to convince my friends to meet me in Baguio after their climb. Their climb was a 3-day hike up the summit of Mt. Ugo, which I (sadly) couldn’t join because my family has this annual vacation that’s usually planned around the Christmas break. This year we decided on Ubud in Bali so that’s interesting enough for me not to be too envious, right? But after seeing their photos, I’m now officially envious. ANYWAY, when I heard of their plans, I suggested New Years in Sagada.
And so, on the evening of the 30th, straight from the airport, I went home only to change backpacks and off I was to Baguio. We took the 6 o’clock bus the next morning and arrived in Sagada by noon in time for lunch at my favorite Yoghurt House. This cozy hole in a wall is one reason why I never tire of Sagada. This was where I fell in love with anything with yoghurt. Not always available but if they have it, their Yoghurt with Bananas, Strawberry preserves and Granola is a definite “must try”! But even without the preserve (which is more often than not), it still comes highly recommended.
New Year’s eve dinner may not be as much of a hit as lunch was but the ambience made up for it. Nothing like having dinner at a cozy log cabin complete with a fireplace, with food all you can eat, and very hospitable hosts and staffs. It’s like being a part of one, big, happy inner circle. New Year’s eve buffet dinner at the Log Cabin (always prepared by Chef Philip Aklay – a French guy who had made Sagada his home) had become a tradition to the Sagada regulars. The food sounded better than it tasted, unfortunately. Too experimental for me. The salad and the chicken were hits though. My friend actually preferred this year’s dinner to last year’s. So there you go… perhaps it gets better through the years. Or perhaps I was expecting too much. I’ve always had great meals at the Log Cabin so this blah experience was a surprise and a bit of a disappointment.
Note that the disappointment was from the New Year’s Eve dinner. We went back for an a la cart dinner prepared by the owner Dave (never got his last name) and everything was superb. You shouldn’t leave Sagada without having tried their Pork Tenderloin.
With all the walking my friends did at Mt. Ugo (3 DAYS!!!), the last thing they wanted to do was walk. So I willingly and happily contented myself to stay in town, continue pigging out and finish the book I started (which I actually did). But whaddyaknow! We bumped into a friend at Yoghurt House who brought his 4×4. He invited us to Besao. Never been there so trying not to sound too eager… I said YES! And so we went to Besao, originally to find the world-renowned stone calendar but it was still a long way off so we scrapped the idea and just took a look at St. Benedict’s Church. A charming little church that looks very similar to St. Mary’s of Sagada. Besao is the darling town after Sagada, which they say has beautiful sunsets. We couldn’t stay to validate the claim as we had dinner reservations that night (at the Log Cabin).
On our way back we passed by Lake Danum to take photos of the normally calm lake. When the water is still, the reflection of the sky vividly captured in still water makes a really good photograph. But it was not so that day. The water was rippling from very strong winds.
I swear, those were one of the coldest days I’ve ever experienced in Sagada, aggravated by strong winds. It was so cold that I had to buy knitted gloves to keep my hands from freezing. We were walking around in fleece, windbreakers, bonnets and gloves at high noon! Really! Between the 4 of us (and a little help from others), we downed 2 bottles of wine and a bottle of Limoncello in 3 days. Hick! 😉
I must say, we started the year well. Bumped into old friends, made new ones as well. Revisited old favorites, and discovered new ones. Hope yours was good too!
Getting there:
To Sagada via Baguio:
At the Dangwa station, take Lizardo Transit Bus. First trip normally leaves by 6:30am; last trip at 1:00pm
Going back (Sagada – Baguio):
First bus arrives at the bus stop (there’s only one) at 5:30 – 6:00 am and leaves as soon as it is full. Sits are first come first serve and since this bus originates from Besao, there may not have a lot left. Bus arrives every hour thereafter, so if you miss this one, you can take the next one.
Travel time: 6-7 hours
Bus Fare: P 220 (one-way)
To Sagada via Banaue:
Auto Bus or Florida Bus Line has daily trips to Banaue, leaves Manila approximately around 10pm.
Travel time: 8-9 hours
Contact Details:
Auto Bus
Espana cornor Catalina,
Sampaloc, Manila
Phone: 735-8096
In Banaue, take a short tricycle ride from the bus stop to the town proper where you can find (Immanuel Bus Liners) buses to Bontoc.
Travel Time: 1-1/2 hours
Bus fare: P 100
In Bontoc, get on jeepneys to Sagada from the Municipal Hall. The bus stops very near the Hall so you won’t have to walk far.
Travel time: 45 minutes to 1 hour
Jeepney fare: P 35
Sagada to Banaue:
Do everything in reverse.
Manila – Bontoc – Sagada Route
Another option is to take Cable Tours which ends in Bontoc, saves having to transfer buses in Banaue however, their buses are limited (I heard) and you may end up losing a day (if the bus conks out or something).
Travel time: 12 hours
Contact details:
Cable Tours
E Rodriguez QC, near Trinity College
Phone: 074-602-1068
Cell: 0918-521-6790
0921-448-8814
Bus fare: P 600
Credits: frames by Joyful Heart Designs, from the Plain Jane Kit
How did you spend the extra-long break? I spent it up in the mountains… two, in fact. After Christmas, my family and I flew to Denpasar and spent 5 relaxing days in a wonderful resort in Ubud, Bali. As soon as I landed in Manila, I was on my way to Baguio to spend a quiet New Year in Sagada with good friends. Both locations I return again and again for their food, so I indulged in good eating this season (as always). 😉 Overindulgence aside, I also found time to finally make a dent on the pile of books on my shelf, waiting to be read.
Despite the gloomy forecast, I can’t wait to get started. I’ve already got a growing list of plans for the year. Four exciting places I want to explore within the 1st half of the year. Learn one sport (starting this month) and master it (in a year or two, I hope). Know Photoshop inside out. Take more photos… and the list goes on. But before all these, it’s back to the gym tomorrow to shed off those extra pounds! 😛
Seriously though, I am thankful and grateful to the almighty God for a wonderful 2008. Hope the blessing continues with the same grace and faithfulness He has bestowed through the years.
A blessed New Year to all! More on Bali and Sagada in the next few days.
Credits: Alpha: Sharejoy- blue alpha puffy stickers; JSprague Festa Mini Kit – Orange Paper
Banaue comes to mind when rice terraces are concerned. True. It is not famous for nothing. And The Viewpoint, after weaving through a host of souvenir shops, has a magnificent view of it. But Batad is for the more intrepid traveler, more off the beaten path, so trekked to Batad we did one Halloween weekend and we discovered a marvelous view of more pristine terraces. An amphitheater, in fact, was what greeted us as we neared the village. Quite dramatic, if I may say so.
The village, 4 years ago, still had no electricity and is mostly made up of traditional Ifugao houses, most if not all would have a view of the terraces. A 40-minute hike down the terraces will lead you to Tappia Falls — an impressive falls and taking a dip means braving the icy-cold water. So, you think I braved it? Umm… 🙂
Touted as the backpacker’s mecca, getting to Batad requires trekking (as there is no other way to get there) so tourists aren’t as plenty as there are in Banaue. My kind of place. A place where you can get lost in the midst of tranquil beauty and isolation, and this makes the trek worth it.
Batad is on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Site in Danger since 2001.
Getting there:
Take a jeep from Banaue to the Batad junction, hike up to the saddle and from there, it’s a 40-minute hike down to the village. Alternatively, you can now hire a jeep that will take you up to the saddle.
Feb 2003: Children of Balbalasang, Kaliga Province. Swimming and having fun without a care in the world. How lucky to have as their playground one of the most beautiful site in the Philippines. Owing to the difficult journey, Balbalasang is shielded from a lot of visitors, which in large part kept it pristine.
Balbalasang National Park was established to in commemorate Kalinga’s opposition to government-backed logging operations in the area in the ’70s (as per Lonely Planet Philippines- 9th edition). The drive to Balbalasang albeit very scenic was long and bumpy. But the beauty of this side of the cordilleras made the journey all worth it. Not too far away from where we got off is this nice campground with 2 converging rivers and an absolutely magnificent landscape. One can feel really small against the grandeur of Balbalasang. Take a look!
Getting there:
Take a jeep from Tabuk, Kalinga all the way to Balbalasang or Balbalan town. This might take 4-5 hours depending on the road conditions. The campsite is just walking distance from the town plaza. You can also arrange for a guide from the plaza to guide you through the different trails. Note that I was there 5 years ago so this information may be old.
So after all that hiking, I’m now dreaming of a sumptuous dinner. But of course! I worked hard and I’m in Tagaytay after all. So we showered, changed and set out to find this chateau.
After driving for about 20 minutes in semi darkness, we turned into a small road that lead us to Chateau Hestia. It had ample space for parking (not that we needed it as we were the only car there that night), a trellis lead us to the main entrance. The owner, Johannes Zehethofer is Austrian so it was not surprising to see Schnitzel in their menu but Osso Bucco and Viennese Roast Pork came highly recommended so Osso Bucco it was for me.
Let me digress a bit and dwell first on this charming bed and breakfast / restaurant. I really didn’t notice since we were there at night but I read somewhere that the entire place was made of container vans. The bed and breakfast part, I did not see but the restaurant interiors reminded me of a cozy country style home with lots of wooden furniture, all different in design. The staffs are well informed and knew a lot about their menu… am impressed!
Where are all the people? We were once again the only ones there so the service and food was quite good. My Osso Bucco was tender, cooked in tomato sauce. Since it came highly recommended, I expected a lot from it. Well, it didn’t really disappoint (but it didn’t leave a lasting impression either) but I want to go back to try their other specialty, the Roast Pork. From what I gathered, everyone was pretty happy with their food. Nothing to complain about, really. 🙂
Clockwise: Osso Bucco, Australian Rib Eye, Poutin, Crema de Limoncelo (melted vanilla ice cream w/ limoncelo & mango bits), Mango Napoleon (graham crust, mangoes, white chocolate)
But the passion fruit topped panna cotta… YUM! Had to convince K to order it as I wasn’t too impressed with the desserts we had. Am I glad I persevered! 😀 The sourness of the passion fruit totally complemented the sweetness of the panna cotta. The best among the dessert lot (for me).
Oh and I must mention that they serve dalandancelo (their version of limoncelo which I love, love, love). Well, you can’t beat the real thing but it was a good version. Perfect to warm our bodies on a chilly night.
European food products are sold here as well. Most (ok, some) are available in Santi’s though.
So are you close to done with Christmas shopping coz I’m NOT!
El Nido: a gateway to Palawan’s natural treasure, Bacuit Archipelago — a fantastic seascape with a collection of jagged limestone islands. It’s clear blue waters teeming with marine life. A top favorite.
Indeed one of my favorite getaway. Two ways to go; in luxury or rouging it up. I personally prefer the roughing it up route. Love the town. What’s not to love? With the limestone karst hills as your backdrop, dramatic eh? Accommodations are definitely far from luxurious but there are plenty of great places to eat! If you take the luxury route, you miss the town and the good food but accommodation wise, I must say is splendid.
Where we stayed:
Rouging it: Lally and Abet Beach Cottages Luxury: El Nido Resorts – Lagen Island
Apparently is any garden that is designed to be enjoyed at night. These gardens are planted with a focus in flowers and foliage, which reflects the soft lights of the moon.
Tucked away from the main road, this garden is a wonderful discovery. The place looked promising as we approached the entrance and as promised, the garden is what makes this place. Old furniture pieces here and there, some floral themed paintings but what caught my eye as I approached the main area was this lotus pond accented by a thatched cabana. Nice. 🙂
We arrived late in the afternoon after our Batulao trek and we practically had the place to ourselves even if there were cars parked outside. The guests were probably out but even after dinner and during breakfast, they were nowhere to be found. Honeymooners, you think? 😉
The casita was charming, complete with a welcome herb tea drink, the bed comfortable and the bathroom… interesting, as it does not have a door. The headboard serves as it’s partition and both sides were kept open. Good thing we are not shy girls! Haha! 😀
At night the garden transformed into… well, a moon garden. It was indeed lovelier at night with the lights perfectly positioned to add drama to it. Love it! I must say, this place is perfect for honeymooners. 😉
Woke up early to take pics of the garden in the morning and to soak up this place. Did a little journaling too.
Breakfast was not bad, better than expected. Nothing great though. I had the ham and egg scramble with ciabatta bread and pineapple marmalade. Love the marmalade, not too sweet and it had chunks of pineapple. They served Batangas coffee cooked the old fashion way (the way Barako coffee used to be) hence the strainer (to catch the stray coffee grind). I love yogurt and the set came with homemade yogurt and honey (which was why I ordered it in the first place) but I was disappointed. The yogurt was too runny; I prefer it thicker like Greek yogurt thick. The guyabano juice, I’m not crazy about… I’d rather have it as a fruit.
It was a great treat after the hike, beats having to camp out. It’s a perfect hideaway if you just want to chill out and get away from the Tagaytay crowd. Not too far from the main road so it is easy access to all the dining places should you decide to come out of seclusion.
my adventure odyssey 